Schrade Pro Hunter Hardness
- Thread starter ASBOB
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Hi ASBOB,
Your questions are quite good questions. However, I do not believe they can be answered. The blade steel is "PROBABLY" 440A. It probably has be hardened as well.
The big questions are:
Why did Schrade have so many blades with different stamping just sitting around for so many years?
I do not belive Schrade made them, to send off to China to be "Finished"
Were they made after 2004, using Schrade’s old castings?
Were they made in China? - Or were they made in the U.S.A. after 2004?
I do hope some-one can answer my question... Ken
I got a lot of my information from this thread:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...A-Pro-Hunter-PH2?highlight=schrade+pro+hunter
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...A-Pro-Hunter-PH2?highlight=schrade+pro+hunter
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i watch SMKW knife show frequently. They are only on Dish and Direct TV and I live fairly close to the store. As I said in the thread about the PH2 that SMKW put out a year or two ago, the hosts of the show stated SMKW went to the factory when it closed and bought everything they could. They are now putting out PH1's with USA blades and bolsters with black paakawod handles assembled in China( the Rough Rider factory they said). The hanldes on the PH1's are hard to tell from the delrin handles; the ones on the PH2 not so much so, the wood grain shows more. Most of the PH2's on ebay are the one assembled this way and many people will be fooled unless they read and look closely. I know Schrade did do some wood hadles but I think thye were curly maple. They did a PH1 for the NAHC and it was curly maple.They never did any in paakawood. I was at the store Sat. and the guy behind the counter said someone came in and bought all the they had except for a handful. Guess where they will end up-ebay. They did the same with the 165OT and 160Ot but they are readily discernable as made from parts as the brown paakwood handles stand out more as not like the orginals than the PH1&2 black handles do. While they may not be true Schrades as they were assembled in China, they would make good users if you want to keep your collectibles to look at.
I did buy one of the PH1's and I guess it was pure luck but it would shave the hair off your arm.
I did buy one of the PH1's and I guess it was pure luck but it would shave the hair off your arm.
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ASBOB it would be 440A or 420HC steel depending on when the blades were made. Steve Coontz said on the TV show when they went up there, there were crates of unfinished blades. Some could be very old .When you look at the years the 165OT was produced, that was quite sometime ago .As far as the Paakawood handles on your PH1, I wouldn't worry. It is pretty tuff stuff just not the same material as Delrin on original Schrades. Paakawood is the ssme stuff used on buck 110 folders and some Case folding hunters. Buck calls it Dymondwood on their pocket knives and tactical folders, forget what Case calls theirs.
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Well folks:
I see it has already started. I saw one of the USA parts assembled in China knives on that well known auction site. Advertized as new and it is in a sense. It is the PH1 Legends series Teddy Roosevelt Rough Rider 1898-1998 etched knife blade. It is advertized as having a black paakawood handle and blades stamped schrade+ usa LTD(the blades are stamped thus but this knife was not completed and sold out of Ellenville). Schrade USA never used paakawood. This dealer would have paid somewhere between 40.00 to 50.00 dollars. He has it listed for buy now at 149.99. Buyer beware.
I see it has already started. I saw one of the USA parts assembled in China knives on that well known auction site. Advertized as new and it is in a sense. It is the PH1 Legends series Teddy Roosevelt Rough Rider 1898-1998 etched knife blade. It is advertized as having a black paakawood handle and blades stamped schrade+ usa LTD(the blades are stamped thus but this knife was not completed and sold out of Ellenville). Schrade USA never used paakawood. This dealer would have paid somewhere between 40.00 to 50.00 dollars. He has it listed for buy now at 149.99. Buyer beware.
Thanks for the updates. I paid $30+ for mine on the auction site, so the new figures, as you note, are a giant ripoff.
I love the handles; fits my handle like it was made for it.
My only (mild) issue is that the blade is well shaped but soft: I'm constantly resharpening. Hence my interest in the Rockwell hardness figure.
Then again, that's what the Sharpmaker is so good at.
I love the handles; fits my handle like it was made for it.
My only (mild) issue is that the blade is well shaped but soft: I'm constantly resharpening. Hence my interest in the Rockwell hardness figure.
Then again, that's what the Sharpmaker is so good at.
Codger_64
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This halfway confirms my suspicions about the heat treat/quench on the blades being handled overseas, reimported and sold on Ebay.
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ASBOB
The one you and I bought is the version without the etch and the price you paid is in line with what the company who had them assembled asks for which is $29.99. The same company has the Teddy Roosevelt etch and NACH etch assembled and charges $50.00.for them. The Teddy Roosevelt is the one on the action site for buy it now for $149.99.
One final thought: As the old KFCcommercial against McDonalds use to say "parts is parts and pieces is pieces"
The one you and I bought is the version without the etch and the price you paid is in line with what the company who had them assembled asks for which is $29.99. The same company has the Teddy Roosevelt etch and NACH etch assembled and charges $50.00.for them. The Teddy Roosevelt is the one on the action site for buy it now for $149.99.
One final thought: As the old KFCcommercial against McDonalds use to say "parts is parts and pieces is pieces"
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Asbob
Others can come in but seems most people sharpen a pocket knife at a 15-20 degree angle and a fixed blade at a 20 degree angle. 40 might be too much.
Others can come in but seems most people sharpen a pocket knife at a 15-20 degree angle and a fixed blade at a 20 degree angle. 40 might be too much.
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Here's some useful info on sharpening angles ,
Under 10 Degree Angles
The lowest angles are reserved for edges that are typically cutting softer materials. In this case, the edges are not subject to abuse so the lower angle can be maintained without damage or edge failure. The lowest angles that we typically see are on straight edge razors. These are sharpened to an angle which is roughly 7 to 8 degrees (although the back of the blade is used as a guide so knowing the angle isnt important and nor is it adjustable). A straight razor has a very delicate edge that is very easy to damage. In proper usage, a straight razor would never see the type of use that would damage the edge.
10 to 17 Degrees Angles
A sharpening angle of 10 to 17 degrees is still quite low for most knives. With a total angle of 20 to 34 degrees, this is still a very fine edge. This edge is typically too weak for any knife that might be used in any type of chopping motion. Also consider that harder steels are also more susceptible to impact damage because they are more brittle. If your knife is used for cutting soft items or slicing meats, this lower angle can hold up and provide a very smooth cutting action.
17 to 22 Degree Angles
A 17 to 20 degree angle covers most kitchen knives. Some knives (typically Japanese manufacturers) will sharpen their knives to roughly 17 degrees. Most western knives are roughly 20 degrees. It is our experience that kitchen knives sharpened to 15 to 20 degrees cut very well and are still durable. These angles are still not highly durable as a total angle under 40 degrees will not respond well to rougher treatment in harder materials.
22 to 30 Degree Angles
In this range, the knife edges are considerably more durable. A pocket knife or a hunting knife will inevitably see abuse not seen by knives meant primarily for slicing or chopping softer materials. While the edge may not ultimately be cut as well (but you may not notice a difference) it will be considerably more durable.
Over 30 Degrees Angles
Any edged tool or knife that is sharpened past 30 degrees will be very durable. Its cutting ability will be noticeably reduced. This durability has an advantage because more force can be used to make the cut. While the majority of knives wont benefit from this sharpening angle, an edged tool like a machete, cleaver or axe must be durable as the typical cutting action of these tools would damage other edges.
Hope this helps,
AB
Under 10 Degree Angles
The lowest angles are reserved for edges that are typically cutting softer materials. In this case, the edges are not subject to abuse so the lower angle can be maintained without damage or edge failure. The lowest angles that we typically see are on straight edge razors. These are sharpened to an angle which is roughly 7 to 8 degrees (although the back of the blade is used as a guide so knowing the angle isnt important and nor is it adjustable). A straight razor has a very delicate edge that is very easy to damage. In proper usage, a straight razor would never see the type of use that would damage the edge.
10 to 17 Degrees Angles
A sharpening angle of 10 to 17 degrees is still quite low for most knives. With a total angle of 20 to 34 degrees, this is still a very fine edge. This edge is typically too weak for any knife that might be used in any type of chopping motion. Also consider that harder steels are also more susceptible to impact damage because they are more brittle. If your knife is used for cutting soft items or slicing meats, this lower angle can hold up and provide a very smooth cutting action.
17 to 22 Degree Angles
A 17 to 20 degree angle covers most kitchen knives. Some knives (typically Japanese manufacturers) will sharpen their knives to roughly 17 degrees. Most western knives are roughly 20 degrees. It is our experience that kitchen knives sharpened to 15 to 20 degrees cut very well and are still durable. These angles are still not highly durable as a total angle under 40 degrees will not respond well to rougher treatment in harder materials.
22 to 30 Degree Angles
In this range, the knife edges are considerably more durable. A pocket knife or a hunting knife will inevitably see abuse not seen by knives meant primarily for slicing or chopping softer materials. While the edge may not ultimately be cut as well (but you may not notice a difference) it will be considerably more durable.
Over 30 Degrees Angles
Any edged tool or knife that is sharpened past 30 degrees will be very durable. Its cutting ability will be noticeably reduced. This durability has an advantage because more force can be used to make the cut. While the majority of knives wont benefit from this sharpening angle, an edged tool like a machete, cleaver or axe must be durable as the typical cutting action of these tools would damage other edges.
Hope this helps,
AB