Securing a shield on DELRIN?

C

clockworkgator

Joined
May 18, 2019
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Gents,

I've been cleaning up a Western 426 and had to use a scalpel and brush to take off some sort bonding agent that was caked around the shield.

What clear fixing agent would you use around the edges just to make sure it doesn't fall out? (I'm not sure how solid the original bond is now or how much work the awful looking stuff I removed was doing.) Super glue doesn't seem like a good idea... but I don't really know.

Thanks,
M
 
I used super glue on an old Old Timer a few years ago.
Shield is still on.
 
clockworkgator said:
Gents,

I've been cleaning up a Western 426 and had to use a scalpel and brush to take off some sort bonding agent that was caked around the shield.

What clear fixing agent would you use around the edges just to make sure it doesn't fall out? (I'm not sure how solid the original bond is now or how much work the awful looking stuff I removed was doing.) Super glue doesn't seem like a good idea... but I don't really know.

Thanks,
M
Click to expand...
Locktite 324 would probably be the best stuff, I'm not 100% sure that it is clear though.
G Flex epoxy is clear and that shield will never come out again.
 
If I remember right, I used a gel type super glue and it's held up very well.
Bob
 
Ive used super glue on case yellow delrin when the shield fell out on acouple knives. Never had one fall out asecond time
 
I reattached an Old Timer shield on a very old 15OT - used two part epoxy - then clamped with a small spring clamp - still attached lots of years later. OH
 
Had a shield fall out of 1.5 hour old Case Trapper a few months ago. Called Case and they recommended Loctite brand CA glue. No issues so far. Can tell you exactly which compound I bought when I get to the house if you're interested.
 
Superglue should work, but make sure to rough up the back of the shield and the inside of the hole a bit. some 80 grit sandpaper or even a small screwdriver should work to scratch up the surfaces for a better bond.
 
The shield is still attached. I'm just worried that removing the old bonding (not factory) from the outer edges, while it looks 100x better, could have weakened things. So I'm looking for the best thing to just seal around the perimeter of the shield for extra security.

I like Loctite, but I don't know what color it dries.
 
loctite dries the color it starts as. Standard dollar-store CA glue should work just fine.
 
Gel-type super glue is perfect for inletted shields. One or two drops in the recess and drop the shield in place. The gel form keeps it from running all over and making a mess and also keeps it from being soaked up in porous handle materials like wood or stag, as a thinner CA glue might do. I repaired a Case 5344 stag-handled stockman this way, when the shield fell into my lap as I was inspecting the brand-new knife. Repair was so easy, it made me wonder why they don't do 'em this way to begin with.
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
Gel-type super glue is perfect for inletted shields. One or two drops in the recess and drop the shield in place. The gel form keeps it from running all over and making a mess and also keeps it from being soaked up in porous handle materials like wood or stag, as a thinner CA glue might do. I repaired a Case 5344 stag-handled stockman this way, when the shield fell into my lap as I was inspecting the brand-new knife. Repair was so easy, it made me wonder why they don't do 'em this way to begin with.
Click to expand...

+1. When I talked to Case customer service, it didn't sound like it was the first time they'd heard it. I bought Loctite Ultragel Control and it's worked great so far. As he said, the gel keeps it from running and you'd never know it wasn't factory. Understand the OP's shield is still in place, but wondering about the bonding agent that was removed.
 
I would think any glue you could remove with the shield in place wasn't doing anything anyway except irritating you. I doubt it really weakens anything to remove it.
 
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