Sharpening Convex EDC?

R

rpn

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Mar 17, 2008
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Hey Christof, have a suggestion or two for sharpening this awesome knife?

I feel like I'm getting so-so results with my stropping. I was reading an older thread where you talked about using a ceramic stick for your convex grinds- is that the way to go here?

The grind on this knife is really different for me...seems made to cut wood effectively. Feel like I'm cutting paper better now and wood worse! :confused::eek:

Thanks!
 
I've always used sand paper over a mouse pad. I work my way up to 2000 grit and then use white compound. Seems to do the trick for me.
 
sand paper on a mouse pad works. to keep it thin at the final, I glue a strip of leather face up on a hardwook board (oak 2x2, poplar 3x3, whatever) and use that for the strop, and lay strips of sandpaper directly over that for heavier sharpening.

The mousepad can increase the angle a bit, especially if you are new to it. The leather will still "give" and convex, but is less likely to give too much.

low angles!

and sometimes, for field stuff, I'll use 320 grit and then lightly strop that. teeth = good.
 
I use some thin craft foam (1/8"?) tacked to a wood board with sandpaper on top. But once sharp, I find that regular stropping on thick leather with compound keeps it sharp.
 
one thing about the ceramics- or any stone- the convexes ont he 'scandivex' grind are shallow enough that "sloppy" stone work will do fine, and "steady" stone work will help if you ever need to thin the shoulders and don't want to mail me the blade :)

The few times on home testers that we've got where I've had to thin the shoulders out I've used a coarse and medium stone without actually hitting the edge, then used the strop with compound to sharpen.


All of which brings up another good point- I do use a JRE strop bat and it really works. I'm eventually going to finish chatting with them about a bench model I want, since I do a LOT of blades.
 
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