Sharpening crk

S

Skunkworkz

Joined
Mar 3, 2022
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34
How do you guys sharpen your CRK’s?

I do regular knives freehand on shaptons, but sometime have some inconsistencies, bu I also have a tsprof K03 system for reprofiling and polishing.

I can get a convex adapter for the system but I have no clue which angle I need. I have a 31 sebenza and an large inkosi.

Also it seems that a lot of people just go for a v edge on a guided system?

And another question, I have a spare lanyard with pin from my sebenza, will that fit the inkosi? I would like a lanyard on it, but didn’t tried if it would fit.

Regards!
 
Thank you for your reply, makes it a bit easier because I can Tie it myself then.

About the sharpening, I have no experience with the sharp maker, but how do you keep the convex? Or is t going t be a v slowly?
 
Skunkworkz said:
Thank you for your reply, makes it a bit easier because I can Tie it myself then.

About the sharpening, I have no experience with the sharp maker, but how do you keep the convex? Or is t going t be a v slowly?
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Slowly to V in my experience. Basically it’s a free hand system that helps you hold a constant angle. I keep telling myself I’ll buy a guided system but I change my mind when i touch up the edge on my sharpmaker.
 
I use an older Wicked Edge and have been for ten years or so. They are spendy, but last a good long time (as long as you don't lend them to pals...ask me how I know).

For most my CRKs I use 21 degrees per side because I like a smaller secondary bevel for aesthetics. No other reason. For me, sharpening is a chore and I want accurate, repeatable results in the least amount of time. If a fella is sure to record how he sharpens any knife on the system (blade placement, DPS, etc.), taking it back to 100% at a lazy pace is a 30 minute problem after months of neglecting it.

A Wicked Edge eats steel quickly to keep things fast. This does mean that an EDC user will lose a lot of steel over several years. I've "sharpened the belly" out of two Mnandis in appr. eight years. They cut a whole lot of stuff though. ;)

I know that a lot of folks prefer to hand-sharpen and I'd love to learn, but I'd need to learn on inexpensive knives and that sounds like another hobby to me. Can barely afford the hobbies I have already.
 
rishma said:
Yep, the repeatability and precision of a Wicked Edge is what makes me want one. Every time I think I’ll buy one the price scares me off. I’ll eventually bite the bullet.
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You know, the OP asks about convex edges, and that new Pro model of WE adjusts both sides (for cut angle) at the same time. I saw a video on the tube by some fellow that I think might be on this forum. He was quickly changing both sides of the WE to create a sort of convex grind with a few micro-bevels. It's a great video and I'm thinking about updating to the newest Gen just to try it.

Just imagine if you could do a good convex edge easily and repeatably? I could do the same thing on my old WE, but that would involve a whole lot of adjusting IMO.
 
jacobconroy75 said:
You know, the OP asks about convex edges, and that new Pro model of WE adjusts both sides (for cut angle) at the same time. I saw a video on the tube by some fellow that I think might be on this forum. He was quickly changing both sides of the WE to create a sort of convex grind with a few micro-bevels. It's a great video and I'm thinking about updating to the newest Gen just to try it.

Just imagine if you could do a good convex edge easily and repeatably? I could do the same thing on my old WE, but that would involve a whole lot of adjusting IMO.
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That’s cool, though I honestly don’t know the benefit of a convex bevel on a folder. I’m not sure I’d appreciate the difference.
 
rishma said:
That’s cool, though I honestly don’t know the benefit of a convex bevel on a folder. I’m not sure I’d appreciate the difference.
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I don't know if there is any benefit either, but I've been thinking about finding out.
 
With a spyderco triangle and only achieve a slightly better working edge. I need to improve that.
 
jacobconroy75 said:
So, that's hand sharpened? It looks pretty darned even to me. If hand sharpened, it must be ever-so-slightly convexed?
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Thank you, it's taken a fair bit to get to this point, and I've scratched many a knife in the process... As far as being convexed goes, I'm pretty sure any freehanding ends up that way. I can't tell you if it makes a difference so far as cutting performance is concerned though, never used any of the high end guided systems.
 
The only thing I know about sharpening is how to use a WE. I can get them wicked sharp (pun intended), but a week later they are "meh". The reason I'm OK with that is that they will stay at "meh" with that v-cut for months and months afterword.

There must be some reason why they ship with convex edges. I don't mean to hijack the thread, but the difference between the two profiles may be relevant to the OP. May be interesting to me too.
 
jacobconroy75 said:
I can get them wicked sharp (pun intended), but a week later they are "meh". The reason I'm OK with that is that they will stay at "meh" with that v-cut for months and months afterword
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Isn't that the selling point of the high vanadium content powder steels? I've been under the impression that once the steel matrix itself has dulled out the carbides keep your edge working.
 
I also use a Wicked Edge. I went with the WE130 about 5 years ago. I could never get a consistent edge freehanded and was normally left discouraged trying. With the WE, it gets incredible results every time. Pricy yes. But well worth it in my opinion. Plus their customer service is top notch. It’s the CRK of sharpening in my opinion.
 
jacobconroy75 said:
The only thing I know about sharpening is how to use a WE. I can get them wicked sharp (pun intended), but a week later they are "meh". The reason I'm OK with that is that they will stay at "meh" with that v-cut for months and months afterword.

There must be some reason why they ship with convex edges. I don't mean to hijack the thread, but the difference between the two profiles may be relevant to the OP. May be interesting to me too.
Click to expand...

My guess is they ship with a convex edge because of the belt system they use to sharpen them at the factory. I suspect convex is not the goal, but an artifact of the system they use. They recommend maintaining with a sharpmaker, which makes me think convex isn’t really that important. I am sure some of our serious edge-nerds can explain the differences in performance vs geometry, which I’d probably never notice in real life.

But what do I know, I just cut stuff.
 
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