Sharpening KA-BAR USMC

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NSDaffy

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Aug 20, 2015
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I tried searching around but could not find any threads on sharpening, specifically the USMC Fighting/Utility knife. If there are others just point me in the right direction...

Anyway, I was wondering how people have successfully put sharp edges back onto their knives after some use / dulling. I searched online and from what I found the angle is suggested at 20 degrees. That seems pretty steep to me for a "utility" blade and I have yet to attempt it... I have oil and water stones I use on my Mora's and a lansky sharpening system I use for my other knives. Normally putting an edge on a blade isn't an issue but I just can not put that hair splitting edge onto my KA-BAR... Suggestions?
 
I recently sharpened one for a friend--I used a Ken Onion Work Sharp to resent the very, very distressed edge (20 degrees each side); I went from my most course belt to next course, then medium, then continued by hand with my DMT diamond "stones" and finished with a ceramic stone (Spyderco's golden stone). It effortlessly shaved paper and arm hair when I was done. Hope this helps--good luck!
 
How about one from KA BAR?

[video=youtube;hr5lbwFJo_U]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hr5lbwFJo_U[/video]

I also put 20 degree's on all my woods knives and have never had a problem. Even my BK2 that I baton with has a 20 degree. I've even gone down as far as 15 on my BK5 and BK15 and chopped through 2x4's.
 
Thanks for the replies! I have looked hard at the Ken Onion work sharp. I am attracted to a mechanical sharpener that has the ability to control the edge angle. I just haven't invested the money yet... Thank you for the suggestion.

With my wet stones I normally only sharpen scandi grinds... Super easy. I have yet to use them for any other grind... The lansky system uses guide rods BUT they bend so easily I am not confident in it keeping a consistent angle... I will check out the link provided, thanks!

20 is really fine... I don't normally use my KA-BAR for splitting wood, but some times it happens.. more as a backup or for when I don't plan to make a camp fire but end up doing so anyway...

Thanks again guys!
 
No problem--I was reluctant too, but having used it on a few blades, I'm liking it more and more. I really use it to "reset" the edge, evening things out after lots of use and hand sharpening. I typically don't finish with it, but when I did recently, the results were very favorable. Below is a pick of a GEC #23 Pioneer that I reprofiled and finished with the Work Sharp.

As for the 20 degrees, I think that it is a nice compromise--it stays true to the fighter design, it slices well enough, and can still handle light/moderate chopping. Kabar's 1095cv is tough stuff--it can handle the angle and the work.

Here's the pic I mentioned:
2ufx3z7.jpg
 
I used a Lansky system on my 1217 for years with great results at 20°.

But I never tried hair splitting ... with any blade. Kinda useless for a field/camp knife anyway as that kind of edge wouldn't last 10 seconds.

To get hair splitting, you need <10 micron media and strops.
 
When I said Hair Splitting I was using more as a phrase than literally hair splitting... I just want the knife to be very, very sharp and I have been struggling with accomplishing this.

When using your lanky system do you use the basic stones that come with it or do you use the extra fine / coarse stones as well. I've considered adding them but haven't heard a lot of feed back on if they are worth the cost.
 
Originally, I just had the standard AO 3-stone kit and just used the Medium and Fine stones on my 1217's primary edge. I used the Coarse stone to partially sharpen the clip. Later I added the Extra Fine stone but that was just for my EDC folder.

The biggest issue with any system is matching the existing angle and raising a burr. Unless you can do that first, there's no need for more stones.

Hereis Aaron's tutorial on using the Lansky ...
[video=youtube;ZlI5PaXsfOk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZlI5PaXsfOk[/video]

He's using the diamond stones but diamond is not necessary for 1095CV. But it does work faster.

Mark the entire edge with a Sharpie so you can plainly see if you're matching the angle and hitting the apex of the edge. This is a common problem as many 'think' they're sharpening the edge but are actually hitting the shoulder instead of the apex.
 
Aias said:
I recently sharpened one for a friend--I used a Ken Onion Work Sharp to resent the very, very distressed edge (20 degrees each side); I went from my most course belt to next course, then medium, then continued by hand with my DMT diamond "stones" and finished with a ceramic stone (Spyderco's golden stone). It effortlessly shaved paper and arm hair when I was done. Hope this helps--good luck!
Click to expand...
So ... 40 degree inclusive?
 
TravisH said:
I used a Lansky system on my 1217 for years with great results at 20°.

But I never tried hair splitting ... with any blade. Kinda useless for a field/camp knife anyway as that kind of edge wouldn't last 10 seconds.

To get hair splitting, you need <10 micron media and strops.
Click to expand...

a 'fine' grit diamond stone and a soft-core nail buffer will do it.
Carbon steels are not THAT hard to make that sharp. I have good luck with O1 and A2. 1084 too, come to think of it.
 
I have not had to actually "sharpen" any of my Kabar knives yet, but I use two honing steels to maintain the edge on all of them

1. for the stainless blades that are a little dull I use a standard metal kitchen steel
2. for razor edges I have a small ceramic steel which keeps my mule, Kahron, zombro and dozier sharp enough to leave a clean cut through flesh...


for damaged edges I hand them off to my dad which uses a wet stone.
 
I moved up from cheap hardware store stones to a sharpmaker with the stock med / fine stones. Very happy with it on my 1219. That's the only knife I have with serrations and nice that the sharpmaker handles those. I use it for all my blades and I stick with the 20 degree angle (40 inclusive).

The edges I get seem usable and I'm happy with them. It will shave and cut paper.... Not like some of the YouTube gurus I've seen where they whittle hair and the minute the blade gets near the skin, hair seems to pop off like it's afraid of the edge :eek: Then again, they typically use the ultra fine rods and strop. After I'm done on the fine rods, I'll do a few passes on the beat up leather couch, but only briefly and with no compound.

I have a lot to learn, but still: With the sharpmaker, the edges I get are consistent, durable, and easily better than what I was getting freehand.
 
Last edited:
NSDaffy said:
I tried searching around but could not find any threads on sharpening, specifically the USMC Fighting/Utility knife. If there are others just point me in the right direction...

Anyway, I was wondering how people have successfully put sharp edges back onto their knives after some use / dulling. I searched online and from what I found the angle is suggested at 20 degrees. That seems pretty steep to me for a "utility" blade and I have yet to attempt it... I have oil and water stones I use on my Mora's and a lansky sharpening system I use for my other knives. Normally putting an edge on a blade isn't an issue but I just can not put that hair splitting edge onto my KA-BAR... Suggestions?
Click to expand...
Well. I sharpen the Kabar 1217 from clip to guard rather than from guard to clip. Set the blade tip first on the stone, with the angle you want to keep the blade at. Keep to that angle all the way through your stroke. Apply the knife gently to the stone; as if to "shave" the stone with pressure from the knife. Keep your pressure and angle consistent throughout your stroke and keep the same angle as you slide down the clip point tip as you "shave". As you come off the tip (which you will feel with your fingertips) keep moving until you are almost at the "ricasso", or end of the blade grind. This should give the blade a hair popping edge with practice.
 
And rather than destroying a good knife while developing the experience and skills, I recommend going down to your local Goodwill and buying up a bunch of the "dull as dish water" butcher knives they always have for sale. When I last went there, I bought 15 butcher knives for $30 to use as practice knives for learning how to use a belt sander properly. I found out exactly how fast you can screw up a knife with said belt-sander very quickly. Much happier doing that on a $2 junker than a $60+ Kabar.
 
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