Sharpening part 2 vid is up

Got to watch it at the library after Scott loaded it. Very informative. Internet service is very shoddy at home, can't see pics or watch vids at work. What is the name of the three sided sharpener, that is similar to a butchers steel, that can be placed inside the handle?
 
Your 'shop talks' have been excellent, Scott. Real glad to see that you will be continuing these. :thumbup:

I can see that we have many of the same toys. The Schrade Old-Timer Honesteel that I purchased about 1972/73 still sees some use (a bit heavy in the pack but fine on my belt), and I had completely forgotten about my Buck Steelmaster #137 until you mentioned it in the video (hope I can still find it). The Hewlett sharpener looks interesting and I might have to add that one to my collection.

Always GREAT to see someone who understands how to sharpen that convex edge quickly and efficiently in the field WITHOUT an inventory of abrasive papers and mouse pads. :)
 
Thanks Dannyboy. You know my method is not much different then the Lansky system or Spydero Sharpmaker fixed position sharpeners. The nice thing about the way I do it is you have more options and can sharpen anywhere without having to attach to a bench or set up the fixtures. Plus you can utilize alot of the different sharpeners on the market. Hewlett/Jewelstik sharpenrs are very good diamond sharpeners. Also that Buck Steelmaster does one hell of a job on an edge. Can't believe I never picked one of those up over the years.
Scott
 
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Gossman Knives said:
Thanks Dannyboy. You know my method is not much different then the Lansky system or Spydero Sharpmaker fixed position sharpeners. The nice thing about the way I do it is you have more options and can sharpen anywhere without having to attach to a bench or set up the fixtures. Plus you can utilize alot of the different sharpeners on the market. Hewlett/Jewelstik sharpenrs are very good diamond sharpeners. Also that Buck Steelmaster does one hell of a job on an edge. Can't believe I never picked one of those up over the years.
Scott
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My personal experience over the years, teaching sharpening skills/methods as a necessary component of shop and outdoor practices (knives, broadheads, axes, large variety of shop tools), has shown me that those who are "gentle and observant" students of what they are actually doing eventually become successful at a variety of sharpening methods. More "options" become available to those who can control the outcome of their efforts with close observation and practice. I think those who fail to get satisfactory results with some of the freehand sharpening methods out there, fail to CLOSELY examine and evaluate their tools and techniques. Without making the needed changes in technique sometimes, they seem to be locked into poor habit always hoping for better results. Just doesn't work that way. When the leather shop was open, it always amazed me at the LARGE number of knives that came into the shop that never saw a decent edge while in its owners possession. Occasionally the owner was proficient at his method of sharpening/maintaining...which was always a pleasure to see. :)

I ordered the Hewlett "Flipstik" 1-2-3 (3-sided) this afternoon. You get the enabling points on that one, Scott. :thumbup:
 
Very good observations Dannyboy. I've tried to show people how to sharpen, some get it some don't. I've been sharpening knives for 40 years. I learned while in Boy Scouts. It took me a long time to settle on the method that I'm using today. I've used almost ever type of sharpener out there from natural stones, manmade stones, ceramic rods, butcher steels, wet/dry paper and diamond abrasives. One of the best stones I ever used is the Norton fine India stone. After reading Steve Dicks recommendation on this stone, I bought one. Norton makes some of the best abrasives out there. I use their Blaze ceramic grinding belts. I also used the paper wheels on a bench grinder for 15 years. Once I got into knifemaking, all power sharpening is done on the belt grinder. I retired the paper wheels.
I've been amazed at some of the edges I've seen on the hunting knives of guys I've hunted with over the years. I remember one fella who boasted about his sharpening skills and when he dropped a deer and it came time to gut it his Puma Game Warden folder couldn't even pierce the skin to start the gut work! One of the other guys pulled out his Bucklite folder and took care of business.
A very close friend of mine who is my hunting buddy, always says "why do I need to learn how to sharpen, I've got a knifemaker for a friend" :D
BTW, you'll like that flipstik. :thumbup:
Scott
 
Great video Scott ... what is it that you like so much about the EZE Lap sharpener?
 
KuRUpTD said:
Great video Scott ... what is it that you like so much about the EZE Lap sharpener?
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It's compact, tough and gets better the more you use it. One thing about diamond abrasives, they literally last forever. Buy once and you're done.
Scott
 
I've been sharpening knives for 40 years. I learned while in Boy Scouts. It took me a long time to settle on the method that I'm using today. I've used almost ever type of sharpener out there from natural stones, manmade stones, ceramic rods, butcher steels, wet/dry paper and diamond abrasives. One of the best stones I ever used is the Norton fine India stone. After reading Steve Dicks recommendation on this stone, I bought one. Norton makes some of the best abrasives out there. I use their Blaze ceramic grinding belts.
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An old Boy Scout here, too. :thumbup: Of course, this was back in the day when the Boy Scouts were encouraged to carry fixed-blade knives and axes on their outdoor adventures....unlike today. Most every school boy could be found with a pocket knife of some sort, too, and none (in my experience) ever dreamed of being threatening with it. Seems our best days are behind us...unfortunately.

I completely agree on the Norton brand of abrasive stones and belts. Most of what I own with regards to stones and belts (I have some 3M also ) is made by Norton. Great quality all-around.

In the beginning, using the old convex-ground Marble's and Blackjack knives, I learned to sharpen the convex edges on the Norton Fine India stone. The edges were completely satisfactory for use in the hunting fields at the time and I did just dandy with 'em. I seemed to get away from that for a period of time when I started using hollow and flat grinds with "V" bevels. A few years later, I run into Ed Fowler and Wayne Goddard (out here in Oregon) who were still sharpening their convex edges on the Norton Fine India. After picking up a few ideas from them on sharpening the convex edge on flat stones, I did notice better results in terms of feathering that edge gracefully back towards the spine without having an obvious transition. The belt grinder is super fast and efficient here in the shop, but I will often go back to that 12" Norton Fine India on the bench when I want a little more "hands on" and, to keep the skills fresh. In the field, I keep the strop busy when needed. If the edge needs more than stropping, I do the same as you....hitting just the very edge without re-profiling the grind. The whole mouse pad affair (I tried that too), trying to attempt the same results as the belt grinder, is just not needed in my experience when in the field. The other is SO MUCH faster.

Looking forward to trying that Flipstick!
 
My first convex was an old style Blackjack. I tried doing them on a stone but just didn't feel comfortable working that way. I feel I have more control and better "feel" of what I'm doing moving the sharpener instead of the knife. I never got the whole mousepad sandpaper thing. In order to do it that way, you really booger up the finish on the grind. I guess you could hit the edge only but the way to do it properly is to push down as if you where on a belt grinder. Moving slow with sandpaper is going to scratch the blade. No way around it. Fast moving on a belt grinder wil not do this.
I do like 3M abrasives. Their Gator belts are awesome. I've used their sandpaper but also use Norton sandpaper I pick up at Home Depot.
You'll like that flipstik.
Scott
 
Dannyboy Leather said:
Your 'shop talks' have been excellent, Scott. Real glad to see that you will be continuing these. :thumbup:

Always GREAT to see someone who understands how to sharpen that convex edge quickly and efficiently in the field WITHOUT an inventory of abrasive papers and mouse pads. :)
Click to expand...

XXXX about 100 with what Dannyboy mentioned. He took the words (letters)right out of my mouth/keyboard. Like D.B., I use a method that might seem outdated to some. Fancy rigs, and devices just seem to mess me up more than anything else. I'm always open to suggestions for lighter, easier, or more effective. Still seems the simpler, the better in the long run.

Well done Scott. :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 
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