Sharpmaker question, need help ASAP

[SVTNate]

So tonight I opened it up, watched the video, sharpened some kitchen knives as practice...read my raving review of it for more on that

Anywhoo, next is sharpening my new CRKT KFF. The blade has a tiny nick in it, I mean really tiny (you gotta look in the right light to see it). Now, should I use all four steps to sharpen it, or just the last two on the white stones? Other than the nick, it's brand spankin' new. I did that by accident while a tiny bit drunk

NEXT QUESTION - For sharpening a new folder, like my Kershaw Ken Onion, should I go with the 30 degree bevel to get it "scary sharp", like Sal says in the video? My folders are all light duty utility knives. So, 30 degree, or stick with the 40? Which steps should I be using to sharpen pretty much new knives (just getting them a bit sharper)?

------------------
Knife newbie.
So far - CRKT Kasper (the big one), Kershaw Ken Onion Ricochet.

 

[HankS]

Wow, I thought I was the only one up at this time on the west coast! Anyway, use your medium stones on that AUS6 at 30 degrees on one side until you get a burr and then switch to the other side until you just get a burr. Keep working until that nick is gone, and the edge geometry is equal. Use the fine stone and polish it up nice at 30 degrees. Like in the manual, if you want an edge that's a little stronger, finish with the fine stones at 40 degrees for just a little bit. I really like my CRKT KFF at 30 degrees!

Hank

 

[Sergiusz Mitin]

SVTNate,

The blade has a tiny nick in it, I mean really tiny (you gotta look in the right light to see it). Now, should I use all four steps to sharpen it, or just the last two on the white stones?

This depends on what do you want to do. If you want to get rid of this nick at all you should redo your edge pretty basically. Work on the brown rod edges until you will get the consistent edge without nick, when finish it following all steps in manual.
However this is not necessary, you can sharpen the edge with the nick, it will just work like small single serration. In this case use white rods only, first work on the edges and when finish on the flat surfaces.

For sharpening a new folder, like my Kershaw Ken Onion, should I go with the 30 degree bevel to get it "scary sharp"

With 30 degree bevel at the main edge it will be really scary sharp but very weak edge. It will roll or chip out easy during even quite light cutting, for ex. pencil sharpening. Properly sharpened knife has very edge beveled at 40 degrees with 30-degree back bevel

Zone 1 - main edge with 40-degree bevel;
Zone 2 - 30-degree back bevel;
Zone 3 - blade's main grind.

I would advise you to create decent 40-degree bevel on your edge, when to sharpen it shaving sharp with very light alternating strokes on white rod flat surfaces.
When it will be done you can create 30-degree back bevel performing all 4 steps (following Sharpmaker's manual) on each side of the blade.

This will remove shoulder between the edge and blade's main grind (darkened area on second figure) and improve cutting performance pretty noticeably.

Please visit also my review on SPYDERCO Sharpmaker here.

 

[Mundele]

Nice graphics serguisz...

 

[SVTNate]

Thanks everyone, I used the 30 degree back bevel and the hard stones to get rid of the nick, then the white stones, then all four steps on the 40 degree angle...no more nick, and the knife is razor sharp!

------------------
Knife newbie.
So far - CRKT Kasper (the big one), Kershaw Ken Onion Ricochet.