Shield inlay troubles

T

Taximanny

Joined
Jul 27, 2015
Messages
460
Ok this has been kicking my butt.
I cannot seem to get a nice finish in laying with USA knife makers templates.

I've tried about every bit they offer.. From 1/8" to 1/16" ( what they say to use) 3/32" shaft.
I dremel out everything I'm suppose to and yet the inlay still does not fit.
The only way I can get it to fit is by actually moving the template a hair right or left.
I shouldn't have to do that.

I'm thinking the template is fine but the inlay is off.
I've just about given up on there templates and inlays....
I'm doing it from the correct side...
Even did it the wrong way and still doesn't make a difference.

There has got to be another supplier...
That would have them...

Or is everyone using USA Knifemaker for these?
 
does the inlay piece fit into the template well ? if you have to move the template it makes me think the template is too small for the inlay.
 
Yes but pretty tight...
They just got the template in a few weeks ago but I'm sure the sent me ion stock on the inlay material... I'm sure it's off.
That's why I'm looking for a new supplier.
I'm sure it's not me... It's not that hard provided I have two pieces matching.
 
Or, cut the pocket with the template, then cut a bit off of the inlay material to fit. You could put it on a squared up work rest, or even with a couple degrees taper, and just bump it a bit with a fine grit belt.
 
Jason has it- just taper it to go into the cavity. Way better to have it a bit tight than too
loose.
Ken.
 
Well I probably picked the worst one to start on...

But if you look closely at the picture you can see all the irregularities in the piece.
 
Check with Mark VanderWest of Leading Edge Fab for more consistent templates and shields.

His are cut from 410 on a Swiss Fiber-Laser and need little to no clean-up. The templates are 1095 also, and I recommend hardening them, leaving them screaming hard (I tempered mine to like 64-65 just to remove stress and keep them from being fragile). The tiny bit of heat affected zone will clean up after hardening just by using the cutter, and give you pretty much a perfect fit. There's a tiny nipple from tabbing left in the template and on the shields (only one) to remove. Kerf is almost non-existant, like a belt finish.
 
Taximanny- here's a few of mine, these were made from .062 ats-34 and left "ice hard" I
hand file them with jewelers files and then heat treat them. I scribe the sheild thru the template
on to 410 ss and grind the sheild to shape. There's a little more to it with the pinning but this
should give you an idea.
Ken.
 
Ahhhhhh
I'm jealous Ken
So they are hand made ?
Are the tapered on inside??
That gives me lots of ideas
 
Yes they are hand made, and no they were filed as straight as I could make them. In the next couple of days
I'll add my pinning system. Some of these parser plates have got 8 years on them with no detectable wear.
Ken.
 
So that's what your using, a parser ?
I watched a video on that today..
Did you make your own or purchase?
 
Taximanny said:
So that's what your using, a parser ?
I watched a video on that today..
Did you make your own or purchase?
Click to expand...

I may be wrong, but I think Ken inlays them by hand, but that's the technical term for the templates, a "parser plate".

I did make a parser recently to try it out myself, but didn't find it easier than using the small cutter in the drill press method, and you've got to make multiple sizes to handle different plates.
 
javand is right- the tech term for the templates. I lock the side of the knife into a drill press
vise with the parser plate clamped to it. To cut the cavity I use a 1/16" dremel cutter (looks
like a small milling cutter) bring the spindle down inside the plate and freehand it around on
the drill press table. With just a couple of depth adjustments on the spindle the cavity is cut.
I actually used to use a parser and it worked ok---- but not near as well as the cutter in the
drill press.
Ken.
 
You guys are making me willing to add the shield "blink" to my slippies!!!
I plan to cut and dress my parser plate from tool steel. Good to know that a taper isn't a strict requirement!

Taximanny, the template you showed is indeed very rough, and also a very difficult shape if you are beginning inlaying shields :eek:
 
Yeah, Ken... you're going to make me go for it as well.
 
The first picis obviously drawing the sheild inside the parser, In the second pic I flip the sheild over and rap it with a hammer and
round bar while sitting atop a piece of baler belting (rubber). Third pic is the cavity cut, and also a dimple in the backiside of the sheild
where the pin will be silver brazed on. Fouth really crappy pic is of the ss rod brazed to the backside of the sheild. Fifth- repeat. Sixth
backside peened. Seventh rough finished.
I generally put sheilds in before I'm even finished grinding the blade that way theres less problems with centering. This was on desert
ironwood but applies to most materials. Also before setting the sheild I fill the cavity with CA gel before peening. I'm sure there's
as many ways to do it as there are knifemakers- this is just the way I do it. Sorry for hacking your thread with a big production Taximanny.
I also use the pinned sheild instead of a scale attachment pin depending on how much room there is between the bolster and sheild.
Ken
 
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