Skeleton knives.....

[marcinek]

I meand they more thin then knives with scales. You see : 4 mm + Kidex sheath = 7-8 mm

True. Though the addition of scales really doesn't add a significant amount of thickness to the knife. Not sure if it would affect the knife's imperceptibility.

 

[Petunia D. Feeble]

for example :

I'd love a bigger version of that third knife, with the dropped edge, in lc200n. Would be a perfect food prep knife for camping.

 

[marcinek]

I'd love a bigger version of that third knife, with the dropped edge, in lc200n. Would be a perfect food prep knife for camping.

I do like the "knuckle room" it affords, but keep coming back to the handle. Say you are cleaning a fish with it. The paracord has got to come off, but then you are cleaning a wet, cold, slimy fish with a bare metal handle knife.

If it had scales? Perfect for that.

 

[jimmyd1982]

True. Though the addition of scales really doesn't add a significant amount of thickness to the knife. Not sure if it would affect the knife's imperceptibility.

I'm guessing he means easier to conceal since the handle isn't as wide.

They definitely have some advantages but I find them to be uncomfortable for any kind of extended use.

I do still like carrying this one though

 

[marcinek]

I'm guessing he means easier to conceal since the handle isn't as wide.

Yes, and my point was that the scales dont really add a lot of thickness. An Izula (for example) without scales isn't much easier to hide than one with scales.

 

[Lapedog]

I meand they more thin then knives with scales. You see : 4 mm + Kidex sheath = 7-8 mm

One of my favourite are Brous Blades Silent Soldier. The knives on the right side are Brous Silent Soldiers. The ones on the left are Fred Perrin knives. They are super easy to carry and comfortable to hold. The knife on the bottom is a Spartan Knives Enyo.

 

[b00n]

I actually came across some yesterday that I quite liked:

From ZU Bladeworx from Australia, they seem pretty solid, perhaps on the heavy side, but I like the beefiness compared to the typical more thin/slender skeletonized handles.

 

[tiguy7]

View attachment 924094 This knife has a Hytrel handle which can be removed. The tang, which is perforated can be wrapped with cord or used bare. The handle is 1/4” thick, and the edges are radiused.

 

[1st Tsekh]

Thank to all who helped me to my question!
Now I could find a lot of information by word "skeletonIZED" knives.
By the way knifemaker Jim Fisher write:
Skeletonized Knives: Advantages
A skeleton is the bones forming the frame of a body, and in skeletonized knives, there is only the frame. Usually, this refers to only the handle, which does not typically have any fittings, bolsters, guards, scales or other material attached. Skeletonized knives are special knives, made this way for very specific reasons:

• Weight reduction: Light weight is the most important reason to make a skeletonized knife. Because the knife does not have handle material or fittings, the overall mass of the knife can be reduced. This is important to specialized knife users, such as military, survivalists, and law enforcement knife users who must travel fast and light. By keeping the overall knife weight down, other essentials can be packed, mounted, or carried. A skeletonized knife is (and should be) about half the weight of a similar-sized knife with full handle materials and fittings.
• Profile reduction: Thinness is important in mounting and wearing a knife, and in certain cases, a thick handle may be detrimental to mounting other equipment, and can possibly restrict movement in tight areas, such as vehicles, aircraft, shipboard, and maneuvering in tight places. The skeletonized knife is thin, so does not protrude as much as handled knives, so there's less chance of bumping into, hanging onto, or possibly snagging equipment, machinery, and other people or personnel. With some arrangements, skeletonized knives and sheaths can even be mounted between the body and other gear or equipment, yet be easily accessible.
• Exposures/Cleanliness: A skeletonized knife typically has no other materials mounted or attached, so all areas of the blade and handle can be easily seen, accessed, inspected and cleaned. This may be critical in certain highly corrosive exposures or continuous marine environments. In contact with possible contaminants such as blood, fluids, and chemicals, the skeletonized knife can then be completely immersion-cleaned, including even autoclaving and sterilizing for disinfecting. All areas of the blade, handle, and frame can be accessed, all can be inspected for any signs of corrosion.
• Gas/Water Absorption: This one is not often considered, but very important to hazardous materials exposures responders and marine divers particularly. Most materials, even manmade thermosets like phenolics and G10 composites can absorb water, chemicals and gasses. This is because, although they appear solid, plastics and other thermosets will have small voids, and many of them are reinforced for toughness with canvas, paper, or fiberglass cloth which contribute to more microscopic voids, pockets or spaces. All of these materials can absorb water in prolonged exposure, as well as gasses, particularly under higher pressures such as that encountered on a dive. This may lead to swelling and movement in the case of a dive knife, and contamination in the case of a knife used in hazardous materials emergencies. By eliminating the handle material altogether, as well as all attached devices and features such as bolsters, guards, pommels and reinforcement, the monolithic blade has no area for moisture or gasses to hide, and thus no propensity for corrosion, swelling, loosening, or weakening of the handle or mounting fixtures.
• Maneuverability: A narrow, light, and thin knife can be more easily maneuvered in some places where space and motion is limited. Since the skeletonized knife does not have a bulky, wide, or long handle, it may be able to work in tight spots that larger knives and handles can not reach.
• Cost/Expense: A skeletonized knife is typically less expensive than a full tang knife with fittings and handle material. This is because there is less material in the knife, but more important, a lot less labor working with and making the full handle material set. Though there may be significant labor in complicated and detailed milling operations to reduce the handle weight, balance the knife overall, and create an interesting and useable handle design, this typically takes less time for the knife maker than a full handle. The sheath is also thinner and lighter, and this helps to make a less expensive knife.

 

[1st Tsekh]

Limitations of the Skeletonized Knife
Just as with every type of knife, the skeletonized knife also has limitations as well as advantages. Please remember that if there were one universal, superior knife, all other knives would be discarded. Since this is an impossibility, the choice of any knife type, style, pattern, material set, and maker is based on the knife clients own specific needs. Some important considerations about skeletonized knives are:

• Strength: this is probably the most important concern for skeletonized knives to be considered by the knifemaker. Because they have less material, less reinforcement, and less mass overall, they are not as strong as a bolstered and handled knife. However, the knife maker can do his best to increase the strength as much as possible by using strong modern materials, using thick stock, properly hardening and tempering the blade and handle, and designing the knife so that strength between the handle and blade is substantial enough for use.
• Comfort: this is probably the most significant detriment to skeletonized knives considered by the knife user, and it is very important. Because the handles are thin by design, they can be uncomfortable for continuous use, as there is less bearing surface along the edge of the handle. These knives, consequently, are not recommended for aggressive daily use. You can imagine a chef, for instance, gripping the narrow handle of the skeletonized knife for hours a day, and it's easy to see why this is not the application for this type of knife. Narrow handles can also cause cramping and chafing, but gloves help and many military clients who use these knives wear them. The knife maker can help quite a bit with thse limitations by carefully radiusing, contouring, rounding, and smoothing all of the exterior surfaces and edges of the handle so that there are no sharp corners or angles for the hand to contact. He can also use thicker stock (1/4", .025" or 6.4 mm or thicker) to help prevent cramping. Width of the stock is important as well, for narrow skeletonized handles can be small and uncomfortable. Another critical step is to chamfer the cuts or milled holes through the handle, so that there is no sharp corner that can chafe, abrade, or cut the hand.
• Grip Certainty/Force Transfer: this is seldom considered or discussed by people who make and sell so-called tactical knives, but it should be. This is the ability to transfer great force from the handle of the knife to the blade while keeping a secure grip. You can imagine how much energy it takes to handle a knife in a combat situation, and how a smaller, narrower handle may limit the grip strength necessary to transfer that energy. A full, rounded handle with adequate reinforcement in the quillon and bolster area will allow much more surface area to contact the hand, thus more certain a grip can be maintained. Since it is the handle shape (not the surface finish) that maintains grip certainty, it is critical that the skeletonized knife is designed with enough mass, width, and thickness to enable this energy transfer. This is up to the knife maker and designer, depending on the expected use of the knife.

 

[1st Tsekh]

I changed wrong word SKELETON to SKELETONIZED knives and my shop become more attendanced)))))
If you are interested in my SKELETONIZED knives - welcome https://www.etsy.com/shop/1stTsekh

 

[BladeScout]

Neither skeletonized knives nor Skelton knives are overly popular on this forum. The latter with good reason. Pretty funny start to this thread though

I like (some) skeletonized or integral knives and dug out an old pic.

Here two of my favorites; the GEK (German Expedition Knife) by T. Lennartz and the titanium MISSION MPS-TI.

The MPS is meant to for example slip into the knife pocket of a pilots flying suit and comes as is.
I have the handles for it as well.

A great knife, which Ive had for many years and have used quite a bit on hunting/hiking trips.

Im involved on a few German knife forums and have had occasion to chat with Mr Lennartz.

I like his German Expedition Knife. It makes for a great camp knife.

One of the gripes in regards to an all metal knife is that its too cold for the fingers during the winter time.
Personally, I dont agree. Ive used all metal knives for years and all years round.
Not too warm during the summer and one often wears gloves during winter.
If not, the metal of the handle quickly takes on warmth from the hand under normal circumstances.

As for weight, the GEK has as wide an all metal handle as a knife with removable scales would have, so cant be accused of saving weight there.
Its a semi-heavy knife which is an advantage when chopping. A great working knife.

In regards to the titanium knife, the weight issue is of course a moot point.

tl;dr Im a fan.

 

[danbot]

I changed wrong word SKELETON to SKELETONIZED knives and my shop become more attendanced)))))
If you are interested in my SKELETONIZED knives - welcome https://www.etsy.com/shop/1stTsekh

Those are some nice looking knives Tsekh!

 

[ponykid]

I have a Brous Silent soldier as well and the addition of the finger hole which returns much of the lost security and control mentioned above and all egdes being radiused makes a huge difference. very comfortable knife to use . a little cramped buts its a compact minimalist design . well thought out a skeletonized handle knife is great for EDC

 

[Petunia D. Feeble]

I do like the "knuckle room" it affords, but keep coming back to the handle. Say you are cleaning a fish with it. The paracord has got to come off, but then you are cleaning a wet, cold, slimy fish with a bare metal handle knife.

If it had scales? Perfect for that.

I think it'd be ok. Its wide enough to keep it from turning in your hand during any normal cutting task and the forward choil will keep it from slipping out.

That cord wrap is definitely coming off though. Fish or not.

 

[22-rimfire]

I consider any knife skeletonized when it has no handles or scales. An example might be the Becker BK-14. Don't actually care for skeletonized knives generally speaking and put handles on the BK-14 (actually a BK-24). My BK-14 is still essentially new but has been sharpened.

 

[RadialBladeworks]

Not a fan of Jim Skelton's knives or reviews. It's been my perception that he's parlayed favorable reviews into personal gain and finally his own line of knives.

EDIT: Ooops, sorry. Just realized you meant skeleton knives as a style.

View attachment 923661

Ah, my grail knife. One day...

 

[mete]

With a quick look I didn't see mention of Balance. One knife I bought was a very fine one except for the fact that the balance was not good. I had the full tang skeletonized by drilling holes in it. That knife now has perfect balance for me and has become my favorite !

 

[Horsewright]

I carried one like this on a daily basis for 3.5 years. Ranchwork, around the house and in the shop. Never found it wanting.

Carried it cross draw horizontal:

Sometimes I'd tuck it in a boot:

About 3 years in showing some wear and tear, but still going strong:

Made and sold quite a few:

 

[marcinek]

I think it'd be ok. Its wide enough to keep it from turning in your hand during any normal cutting task and the forward choil will keep it from slipping out.

That cord wrap is definitely coming off though. Fish or not.

Quite possibly. Besides the cold and/or wet "skeleton" my other problem with skeletonized is that "turning" you mentioned. The extra width and roundness of a "non-skeleton" keeps them from rotating in my hand on me.