Sleipner corrosion resistance?

Joined
Feb 11, 2014
Messages
816
Hey folks, the title says it all. I recently got an m7 in satin and I've read that the steel rusts easily. Opinions?
 
It's a D-2 clone but has less Chrome (7.8%). Most D-2's are around 11% Chrome which is still not stainless. Stainless cutlery steels need 13% or better Chrome content. Generally speaking, the more Chrome you add, the more rust resistance you have. Cookware has Chrome and Nickel in their stainless alloys. This makes them very resistant to corrosion, but the those alloys are not hardenable so they can't be used for cutlery.
 
To be short yes it corrodes fairly easily . I have a hest in the steel I never use or carry just sits in a case and it has a little bit of rust on it just from sitting .
 
The Knife Steel Chart calls Sleipner a Modification of the classic AISI D2 tool steel having improved toughness compared to D2. If you need a fine grain, which I like, D2 is available in a CPM version.
I have a Lionsteel Ti Dust with a Sleipner blade. I don't pocket carry it in the summer. It tends to rust in my presence. What can I say? I'm a sweaty guy. D2 also rusts in my pocket in the summer.
 
It's not right. D2 is a ledeburitic steel. Sleipner is a 8% tool steel family. Finer carbide...

I would be interested in hearing your opinion, as to the benefits of Sleipner over D2. I have an SR2A in Sleipner, & in practice I haven't noticed a difference.
I'm sure Lionsteel has reasons for choosing those two steels.
 
The Knife Steel Chart calls Sleipner a Modification of the classic AISI D2 tool steel having improved toughness compared to D2. If you need a fine grain, which I like, D2 is available in a CPM version.
.

It can be a change but in fact the difference is substantial.

PM is another fact...
 
I would be interested in hearing your opinion, as to the benefits of Sleipner over D2. I have an SR2A in Sleipner, & in practice I haven't noticed a difference.
I'm sure Lionsteel has reasons for choosing those two steels.

I choosed this steel because it's tougher D2, no problem chipping on edge, and have also a very good edge retention.
 
It have better corrosion resistance than A2.

It's very difficult to si on it red rust (active), It can have black rust (passive).

Do you recommend taking out the handles for cleaning or is the handle pretty tight fit that wont allow water to get in it?
 
The water infiltrates any knife that has a detachable handle. You can use Touf Cloath on the tang in the handle or use nothing. If you use the knife you'll see marked. A little passive oxide in the handle does not change things.
 
The water infiltrates any knife that has a detachable handle. You can use Touf Cloath on the tang in the handle or use nothing. If you use the knife you'll see marked. A little passive oxide in the handle does not change things.

Do you have any corrosion testing pictures on sleipner?
 
Some weeks.
Sun, rain, humidity...

CIMG1724.jpg
 
Lionsteel does offer Sleipner models with the black coating. That would ease your mind about rust and corrosion. Their coating isn't just a powdercoat or a thick paint job. It is very well done.

My m7 is coated!

IMAG0898.jpg
 
I would recommend taking apart a folder with a Sleipner blade if you used it in a wet environment. The day I got my Kur, I was so eager to put it to use I used it for a job much better left to a stainless steel. I had a hard time removing the cover to my in-ground pool and ended up using the Kur to repeatedly puncture the cover so as to drain it which resulted in the knife getting very wet in funky water. I gave it a quick cleaning after finishing my work but did not take it apart and the next day I noticed a speck of rust close to the handle and took it apart to clean it. There was surface rust around-not completely, though–the pivot. It was easy to remove with steel wool and the knife has been fine ever since. This is not a criticism as I clearly used the wrong tool for the job. Great knife
 
I have not seen any sign of corrosion or discoloring on my SR-1 even inside the handle now that i managed to disassemble and clean the EXTREMELY tightly fitted pivot
 
Back
Top