Slipjoint Peening Anvil

Joined
Aug 5, 2014
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378
I made my first slipjoint last week and definitely intend on making more. One thing I don't have is a decent peening surface; I used the tiny crap anvil on my vice. I'm considering just getting a large hex bolt and clamping it in my vice (after rounding and polishing the face) but the hardest I could find on McMaster Carr was 38RC which is definitely harder than pins so should work but thought I'd ask other slipjoint makers for relatively easy solutions. Thanks!
 
I made my first slipjoint last week and definitely intend on making more. One thing I don't have is a decent peening surface; I used the tiny crap anvil on my vice. I'm considering just getting a large hex bolt and clamping it in my vice (after rounding and polishing the face) but the hardest I could find on McMaster Carr was 38RC which is definitely harder than pins so should work but thought I'd ask other slipjoint makers for relatively easy solutions. Thanks!
I don t know if this is what you look for , but that is what I use for pins on scales .Roller from bearing , they come in different size .....I rammed one into the thick wall pipe and that is my anvil .....I even made small hammer from small steering wheel ends rod.Big one steering wheel rod /from big truck/is hard on surface , but when i grind it to get flat surface inside that red ring was soft .Strange how it was made , picture don t show but there is visible line between hard surface and soft inside . like they are jointed somehow , certainly not one piece .But it is good for bigger round hammer .
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N Natlek I almost got a big roller bearing at work awhile back but passed being a stock removal guy for now. SBuzek SBuzek sounds like that might be the easiest solution. Thanks.
 
I've been using a 3/4" (thread diameter) bolt for years. I think it's a grade 8. I ground the markings off, but it shows basically zero wear after peening dozens of pins. One of these days I may look into an even larger bolt, for for little things, 3/4" is fine.
9x out of 10, I put it in my vise, but I also drilled a hole in my work bench to stick it in as well.
 
I don't get it..............? Aren't you looking for something like decent peening surface for pins ?
Yes I am. I was just saying I had an opportunity to get some of those but passed and no longer have access to that type of thing whereas a grade 8 or 9 bolt is easy to get and cheap. A stock removal guy doesn't have a use for a giant chunk of 52100 especially if he didn't think of the fact it could be turned into an anvil of sorts.
 
The tool is called a "Cutlers Stiddy". It is used to peen pins, and assemble/disassemble a folding knife. The thin wedge end will disassemble a folder. You can also tap a pin into the knife over the slot. The pritchel hole allows a pin to be driven out.

Almost any hard object that can be held securely will work. Some folks take a 4x4" piece of steel plate and weld a grade 8 bolt to it, others use the vise to hold the object. Some harden a block of steel.

A proper stiddy looks like a funny little anvil. They are stupid crazy expensive to buy, but almost any knifemaker can make one from a 1X2X4" block of any hardenable steel. O-1 ; W-2, 5160, etc. Weld it on a round or square base of 1/2" steel and harden in oil. Temper at 600° and it will be great.
Here is an image from a past Bladeforums thread:
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Like Stan and Drew said, a bolt works fine

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I have an 8" piece of scrap railroad track. Newer 132 lb. stock. Nice and round on top that I've used since day 1. Awesome for peening and other slip joint work and cheap. I also just bought a peening anvil recently from Brad Jansen. Also awesome, not overly expensive and worth every penny. It's an heirloom piece for sure. He also makes them with a flat top and custom cutlers stiddy's. I highly recommend!

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Harbor Freight sells a small 9-10" anvil that I keep on my bench for peening. Works great and if I remember correctly it was under 20 bucks.
 
Thanks for all the ideas. For now I got a large grade 9 bolt with a 2' wide 3/4" thick head on the way for all of $9 but in the future one of those cutler's stiddies or a Jansen peening anvil look very nice.
 
I made this out of piece of RR track that came with my coal forge. A bookend for the past 2 years. Flattened it, then welded on some hardened/tempered 1095 scrap. Top is rounded on one side, sharp ledge on the other. Going to add holes soon to mount, and to hold punches.

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I made this out of piece of RR track that came with my coal forge. A bookend for the past 2 years. Flattened it, then welded on some hardened/tempered 1095 scrap. Top is rounded on one side, sharp ledge on the other. Going to add holes soon to mount, and to hold punches.

nOcKQEM.jpg

YjhyoX3.jpg
Very nice!
 
Here is the one I just made.

1" thick hardened D2 top, mild steel base, maybe 25 pounds total. Top is about 3X5". Base is 6" round and about 2" thick, all bolted together to threads in the bottom of the anvil portion. I have a bunch of in-progress pics if anyone is interested.

I love it but it was a lot of work on the mill and surface grinder.

rAoD3Wy.jpg


Here's how youd use it to peen on a scale of an assembled knife:
wtlqYhQ.jpg
 
Here is the one I just made.

1" thick hardened D2 top, mild steel base, maybe 25 pounds total. Top is about 3X5". Base is 6" round and about 2" thick, all bolted together to threads in the bottom of the anvil portion. I have a bunch of in-progress pics if anyone is interested.

I love it but it was a lot of work on the mill and surface grinder.

rAoD3Wy.jpg


Here's how youd use it to peen on a scale of an assembled knife:
wtlqYhQ.jpg
That's very nice. Will be on my list to make when I have a shop that isn't in a basement and can own large equipment like a mill or surface grinder.
 
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