Solid Color and Consistent Finish

Henry Cambron

Henry Cambron

www.worldclassknives.com
Joined
Nov 30, 2006
Messages
218
I have the hardest time getting a nice solid color when I dye my sheaths. I wipe the leather down with acetone then wet with water before applying the dye. I always get splotches and I know it's not stray glue.
Any suggestions...
 
Last edited:
Well, it could be the leather itself--are you just getting the cheap Tandy stuff? If so, higher quality leather will probably take care of that problem. If not, how are you applying the dye? The wool daubers that come with the dye are worthless, and using an airbrush will give you good even color, or wrapping a bunch of cotton balls in a scrap of cloth works well for me.

~Noah
 
Be careful what you lump into the "cheap" category.

I use both Tandy/TLF leather and the daubers and have consistent results.

But

I use their top grade leathers, and the Fiebings Pro Oil dyes.

Splotching can be caused in so many ways its difficult to narrow down till you get the full story.

Tandy/TLF isn't the bad guy.
 
Henry,

1. Buy your leather from Wickett and Craig pre dyed from the tannery and your problems are over.

2. You are limited in colors using Feibing's Pro Oil Dye, but that's the best in my opinion as stated by Dwayne. If you are NOT going to carve or tool then either or both of the following...(a) get the leather really drippy wet and while it is still in the flat state apply your dye generously and sort of slosh it around, then as it is absorbed finish of with strokes of the dauber all in the same direction,
(b) Alternate method is to apply neats foot oil and then dye. The oil helps carry the dye into the leather. In either case let the dye dry thoroughly and buff with a paper towel, or cloth to remove the top dusty residue. Then proceed to assemble and finish your sheath.

Number 1 is easier than number 2

Paul
 
The more I do these long runs for the Company Stores, the more I look at that pre dyed leather. Hand dying 50 - 75 sheaths at a time is a lesson in patience. :p

My hang up is not being able to hand pick my leather, I'm spoiled rotten. ;)

The next long run is going to be pre dyed, I've just got that feeling.
 
I'm having the problems with the Oak Leaf, Live Oak, and Craftsman Oak double shoulders from Tandy and the TR grade shoulders from Weaver Leather. And I use the wool daubers.

I have both the Fiebings Pro Oil dye (in saddle tan only) and their regular dyes.

I've heard of Wickett and Craig but never bought from there.

Paul, I'll try your suggestions on some test pieces. Thank you very much.

By the way, my shop is in the basement and I only have a small space heater. Could it be the cold?
 
Henry Cambron said:
By the way, my shop is in the basement and I only have a small space heater. Could it be the cold?
Click to expand...

It could well be a factor. I used to have to keep my neatsfoot oil on a coffee cup warmer when I worked in the unheated garage. Warm oil does penetrate better and the dyes may just share that trait.

Paul
 
Yup, Saddle Tan is the worst to get an even color.

Took me quite a while and practice to get it to go on smoothly. The Pro Oil dye does take a while to dry completely and will look blotchy for hours before it finally clears up.

I use fast overlapping strokes in one consistent and even run over the entire piece. Occasionally I'll go over it again in an opposite direction. The key is not stopping if you can help it, the stopping point is where you will get blotching. Another good thing to remember is to try to remain consistent with both speed and pressure on the dauber. Push harder and more dye will be deposited, lighter strokes will cause streaks.

Sandy did warn, I read a while back, against using the water technique with Pro Oil dye. Something about oil and water causing issues. The water method works well with spirit dyes evidently, though I haven't tried it.

I've been using the Pro Oil dye for many years now, and still get the occasional blotchy dye job, its the curse of the Saddle Tan I guess. I just toss and start again, no biggie. ;) Yea, I keep telling myself that.... :p
 
Something that might help is dipping the leather in the dye. It worked for me on the last 4 black sheaths I did. Of course, it uses more dye so make sure you have a lot if you are going to try that.

Thinking I'm going to start buying Pre-dyed leather soon, specificly Black and Chestnut skirting from Wickett & Craig. Some of the Pre-dyed leather is .15 cents more per SQ/FT but I think it will be worth it in time and labor savings.

Heber
 
I've tried the dipping in the past and got the same results. I used a mixture of 50/50 dye and reducer.
I'm still thinking the cold might have something to do with it.

Yesterday I brought one to the kitchen and tried soaking it with neatsfoot oil like Paul suggested. It was better but I still have a few spots. I'm going to try using alot more water on the next.

I contacted Wicker & Craig and they're sending me some swatches.
 
I wouldnt sweat it , IMO 'splotchy' ( for want of a better term ) dyed leather , especially red brown colors add character and visual depth to a sheath.

If anything I think it's the dye being used rather than the quality of the leather , I've gotten better results using Fiebings than say... Kiwi shoe dye :)

Tostig
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top