Spyderco CPM S110V MIlitary Full Review

I really wish you hadn't done this review..... I wasn't blown away with the S110V on my Manix 2. Was solid on a KW Military in CTS-204p and now you put up your test showing awesome performance of the S110V in the Military. Ah all these super steel choices are getting annoying to manage a decision.

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Very cool review, thank you. Considering I just got my blurple military, I sharpened it on the WE. 36 degrees inclusive. It was easy to reprofile but I'm having a little difficulty getting it hair popping sharp. I think I'll bring it to 30 degrees inclusive tomorrow. Thanks for the in depth review. 👍 Any tips on getting it shaving sharp?
 
Very cool review, thank you. Considering I just got my blurple military, I sharpened it on the WE. 36 degrees inclusive. It was easy to reprofile but I'm having a little difficulty getting it hair popping sharp. I think I'll bring it to 30 degrees inclusive tomorrow. Thanks for the in depth review. 👍 Any tips on getting it shaving sharp?

Clean apex is the key.

Raise a burr and remove the burr, if the apex is clean it will be sharp.

I don't have a WE so I can't help you with that thing.
 
Clean apex is the key.

Raise a burr and remove the burr, if the apex is clean it will be sharp.

I don't have a WE so I can't help you with that thing.

I've been swiping it over a cork and going back to sharpen or strop, it seems to work. I was very surprised though when I did my usual sharpening on the WE and it wasn't shaving sharp. I do the same process with s35v Steel and others and it's good to go. I like a chalange, thanks.
 
I've been swiping it over a cork and going back to sharpen or strop, it seems to work. I was very surprised though when I did my usual sharpening on the WE and it wasn't shaving sharp. I do the same process with s35v Steel and others and it's good to go. I like a chalange, thanks.

S110V isn't hard to sharpen IMO, I do stay far away from diamonds as a rule and only use Silicon Carbide or ceramics.
 
I do stay far away from diamonds as a rule and only use Silicon Carbide or ceramics.

Care to comment why you stay away from diamonds? That is about all I use any more - well broken in DMT plates. When new they are very aggressive and not true to grit, but they break in to a nice finish.
 
Care to comment why you stay away from diamonds? That is about all I use any more - well broken in DMT plates. When new they are very aggressive and not true to grit, but they break in to a nice finish.

Never saw the point personally I think they are a waste of time for sharpening as over the years of experience Silicon Carbide is faster on any steel I have ever dealt with.

I prefer high quality Silicon Carbide to anything else, but I do use ceramics for quick touch ups.

Been sharpening knives for 40 years.
 
OK, I was just wondering if you found a difference in the quality of the edge.

I find diamond to be pretty fast, so if the SiC is faster then it is fast indeed. Which are the "high quality" stones?

I have been freehand sharpening for over 40 years - starting with Washita and Arkansas stones (soft and hard), which give a very fine edge but take a very long time on hard steel or steel with any amount of vanadium. I rarely use those stones any more.
 
I sure like the military. I have two and sold three over the years. The S110V is not a sprint run right? I just might snag one. I like the subtle changes they made on the new military, with the larger screws, lanyard hole and double torx pivot screws.
 
OK, I was just wondering if you found a difference in the quality of the edge.

I find diamond to be pretty fast, so if the SiC is faster then it is fast indeed. Which are the "high quality" stones?

I have been freehand sharpening for over 40 years - starting with Washita and Arkansas stones (soft and hard), which give a very fine edge but take a very long time on hard steel or steel with any amount of vanadium. I rarely use those stones any more.

I still freehand when I have to, and for touch ups.

But I use the Edge Pro and have been for awhile know due to the speed and accuracy.

High Quality stones are generally industrial grade and VERY hard with very little filler so there is very little wear.

I currently use Congress Tools Mold Master Silicon Carbide stones on the Edge Pro and have been for awhile.

The quality of my edges are very high. :D
 
I sure like the military. I have two and sold three over the years. The S110V is not a sprint run right? I just might snag one. I like the subtle changes they made on the new military, with the larger screws, lanyard hole and double torx pivot screws.

Nope, not a Sprint run. :D :thumbup:

I like the changes too. :)
 
Jim, any thoughts on the hardness of this one? Did it feel harder or softer on the stones compared to the Manix 2 in S110V, which measured 62?
 
Jim, any thoughts on the hardness of this one? Did it feel harder or softer on the stones compared to the Manix 2 in S110V, which measured 62?

To me it felt harder.

It's not just that though, I think it cuts much more aggressive than the Manix 2 did that I tested 2 years ago.

It's a real monster cutter, cardboard killer. :eek:
 
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I still freehand when I have to, and for touch ups.

But I use the Edge Pro and have been for awhile know due to the speed and accuracy.

High Quality stones are generally industrial grade and VERY hard with very little filler so there is very little wear.

I currently use Congress Tools Mold Master Silicon Carbide stones on the Edge Pro and have been for awhile.

The quality of my edges are very high. :D

Jim, do you wet those SiC stones or use them dry on the EP?
 
So, how about a s110v/204p face-off? Seems like they should be fairly close. Wonder what ease of sharpening and toughness quotients would throw in the mix?
 
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