Spyderco factory edge angles

R

rwasham

Joined
Mar 27, 2009
Messages
650
Sorry for the rehash of what im sure several people people have asked already, but what is the normal angle that one finds for out of the factory knives? I cant remember if its 15 or 20 degrees or something else. Thanks
 
They try for 15, but they are all finished by hand so it does vary.
 
The sharpmaker video says they are sharpened at 15 per side. I will say though that I tried to touch up my salt 1 at 15 and did not notice it getting sharper. So I changed to the 20 setting and it brought the edge right back.
 
i just saw a tour of the factory on a show called "cool tools" i think on DIY network and the guy they were interviewing (plant mgr. it said) I thought said they shoot for 16 deg.
 
I have an Endura in ZDP-189, just got my sharpmaker yesterday. I haven't even touched it yet, I wanted to watch the video first. What angle should I sharpen the Endura at? If the factory edge is 15-16 degrees and the Sharpmaker only has 30 & 40 degree settings, how do you maintain the factory edge?
 
ridgeline said:
I have an Endura in ZDP-189, just got my sharpmaker yesterday. I haven't even touched it yet, I wanted to watch the video first. What angle should I sharpen the Endura at? If the factory edge is 15-16 degrees and the Sharpmaker only has 30 & 40 degree settings, how do you maintain the factory edge?
Click to expand...

Factory edge is 15-16* per side, which is 30-32* inclusive. The sharpmaker lists inclusive angles (15* per side for 30, and 20* per side for 40).
 
It can get confusing talking about angles. When people talk about 15 or 20 degrees it is usually per side so that would be 30 or 40 degrees total. For a 15 degree angle per side use the 30 degree setting on the Sharpmaker.

I've been getting good results with the 40 degree setting. If I understand what's happening, the main bevel on the edge is 30 degrees and I'm putting a 40 degree micro-bevel on it. Maybe others here can explain this better.
 
Not to ask a stupid question or beat a dead horse, but it sounds like the 30 degree setting should be good to go then? I'll likely watch the DVD and get accquainted with the sharpmaker this evening. My endura is still very sharp, but I'd like to maintain that edge to the best of my ability. Thanks again guys.
 
ridgeline said:
Not to ask a stupid question or beat a dead horse, but it sounds like the 30 degree setting should be good to go then? I'll likely watch the DVD and get accquainted with the sharpmaker this evening. My endura is still very sharp, but I'd like to maintain that edge to the best of my ability. Thanks again guys.
Click to expand...

30* should be fine, especially for ZDP. A couple of swipes once or twice a week should keep ZDP up fine.
 
Josh K said:
30* should be fine, especially for ZDP. A couple of swipes once or twice a week should keep ZDP up fine.
Click to expand...

Thank you sir, much appreciated. Just use the fine stones for touch-ups I assume?
 
Just finished watching the DVD this morning, really looking forward to putting the Sharpmaker into service later today, very informative DVD, the sharpmaker does a lot more than I thought it did!
 
When you sharpen a Spyder with the Sharpmaker, you are adding (or restoring) microbevels to the very edge of the blade. The microbevels must be at a greater angle than the primary bevels. Spyderco shoots for primary bevels of 15 degrees per side, or 30 degrees inclusive, from the factory. This means you must use the 40 degree Sharpmaker setting to add microbevels.

You will sometimes get a Spyder from the factory (particulary those made in Golden) with primary bevels less than 30 (around 20) degrees inclusive. The 30 degree setting can be used to add microbevels to these knives. The 40 degree setting still works fine, though. To save yourself much frustration, just use the 40 degree setting unless you know for sure that the knife has primary bevels less than 30 degrees inclusive. This is something I learned the hard way ;)
 
catamount123 said:
When you sharpen a Spyder with the Sharpmaker, you are adding (or restoring) microbevels to the very edge of the blade. The microbevels must be at a greater angle than the primary bevels. Spyderco shoots for primary bevels of 15 degrees per side, or 30 degrees inclusive, from the factory. This means you must use the 40 degree Sharpmaker setting to add microbevels.

You will sometimes get a Spyder from the factory (particulary those made in Golden) with primary bevels less than 30 (around 20) degrees inclusive. The 30 degree setting can be used to add microbevels to these knives. The 40 degree setting still works fine, though. To save yourself much frustration, just use the 40 degree setting unless you know for sure that the knife has primary bevels less than 30 degrees inclusive. This is something I learned the hard way ;)
Click to expand...

Thanks, you've explained that better than I've heard/read before. Now I imagine someone else will come along and contradict you and I'll be confused again,lol.
 
Just make sure to keep your wrist steady. It takes a little practice and the key to a really sharp edge is to lessen the pressure little by little until you're alternating with less than the weight of the blade against the fine stone. Too much pressure will create an annoying burr that won't go away.

It's kind of ironic. When you're working on a dull blade, the first goal is to bring the edges together and create a burr with the brown stones. Then the goal changes where you're trying to polish the edge and remove that burr. Personally, I had problems with getting rid of the burr and had to move to a leather strop to polish it away. Then I realized that my problem was due to too much pressure at latter stages. I can probably get a good final edge w/o the strop now, but I'm used to stropping now.

If you do decide to strop, remember that there's no reason to spend a lot of money. An old leather belt glued to a scrap piece of 2x4 is more than enough to do the job. You can rub some polishing compound on it to speed it up if you wish. Hell, a piece of cardboard and some polishing compound is just as effective but just not very elegant.

The best explanation of the sharpening process I've seen is from Purgatory Ironworks on youtube. Trent does an amazing job teaching you exactly what is going on. That basic knowledge will allow you to use the sharpmaker properly. Just remember that less is more with the fine stones.

You know about the sharpie trick, how to detect a burr and using light to detect any blunt spots on the edge, right? I find them all useful.

Good luck
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top