Spyderco Sharpener Negative Results *Help!

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Popocho

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Apr 17, 2007
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So I got the Sharpmaker and after practicing on it I felt I was doing okay with it. I could cut paper (not peel it like he does in the DVD)

After sharpening my BM 710 D2 on it, I could cut paper (not push cut)

Then my fiance ordered the 556 Mini Griptillian. It could push cut paper and pop hairs. I was so frustrated that I had spend $200 only to be outclassed by a knife worth half as much.

So my question to you guys is, what am I doing wrong with the 710? I have been following instructions of the DVD (Keeping blade straight up and down --> Had fiance watch me do it to make sure) on the 40 degree slot.

I tried to back bevel on the 30 degree and then sharpen at the 40. Although the knife got sharper, it still couldn't push cut like the Mini. Not even the Balisong 42 by Benchmade was as sharp (also sharpened by me though)

Please help, I was so close to shipping the knives to Benchmade so they would sharpen it for me today. =(
 
Have you tried the sharpie technique to mark the edge grind(s) with the pen and check after a couple of swipes to make sure you're grinding all the way to the edge?

Also note that some steels are harder to get an edge on than others. Do not expect your D2 blade to sharpen with the same ease as your wife's Mini Grip with 154CM. Though given enough time I imagine you should be able to get equal performance.

Also note that the edge produced by the Sharpmaker may get you different cutting performance than the stock grind on the Mini Grip (you didn't mention having sharpened your wife's knife so I can only imagine you're comparing your sharpened one to her factory-sharpened one).
 
D2 is highly resistant to wear - that means it will keep whatever edge it has for a long time, but it is very difficult to get a really sharp edge. It requres a lot of work.

In some circles, D2 is known for keeping a poor edge a long time! :D

The Sharpmaker is great for maintaining the edge of a sharp D2 knife, but not really the best for creating a really sharp D2 edge. It can be done, but it really takes a long time. Personally, I would not try to sharpen a D2 knife from dull on the Sharpmaker. I just don't have the time.

S30V is a little easier to sharpen than D2, in my experience.

The Edge Pro will sharpen your 710 and the BM faster and easier than the Sharpmaker.
 
mikeymoto said:
Have you tried the sharpie technique to mark the edge grind(s) with the pen and check after a couple of swipes to make sure you're grinding all the way to the edge?
Click to expand...

Couldn't have said it better myself. You are most likely hitting the shoulders of your knives still. Make sure to use light strokes and dont force it. Also, make sure that you clean your stones with a scouring pad and some abrasive cleaners. It takes a while to get use to the sharpmaker system. If anything, you could always pick up the Diamond rods, but I would suggest a diamond bench stone instead.
 
Chinese man, i have read many of your posts and find them most helpful. i've had my Sharpmaker about 1 month and each time i read one of your posts, i'm able to apply it and get better results. it's a bit of an art (to getting stellar results with the Sharpmaker). thanks, roland
 
So I called BM and asked about their angles. Turns out their knives are sharpened at 30 degrees.

I have been hacking away at my knife at 40 degrees.

What does this mean for the blade of my knife? By sharpening it through the 4 steps of the sharpmaker, it's already much sharper. Comparable to my fiance's knife even. (We've got shaved patches all across our forearms and I have been forced to move to my legs for better testing.)

What should I do?
 
The 710 also has a recurve blade, so you must sharpen it accordingly. As you slide the knife down the stone you have to follow the curve of the edge of the knife. It's tricky but if you learn that thing should be super sharp. Good Luck!
 
takes forever to reprofile a bevel if the factory angle is slightly off with a shaprmaker unless youve got the diamond hones.
the sharpie trick is the best to show you whats happening.
ive got eze lap and dmt diamond hones that i set up at any angle i want with a home made jig and do all my reprofiling on that before i stick the blade to the sharpmaker if the bevel angles are wrong.
once youve got the right bevel set up though... the sharpmaker has never failed to get shaving edges or pushcut paper.
If i want a little more.. i strop with a chromium oxide loaded leather strip.
 
Remember that the last bit of sharpening should be EXTREMELY light passes.

You'll make a pass on one side, then another, alternating back and forth with these passes that you think couldn't possibly be removing any material. You'll think that the last few passes couldn't possibly be doing anything at all.

That's when you know that you're still too hard.

Go lighter.

You'll make a pass on one side, ask yourself "did I touch the stone, or was I just close?" and then make a pass on the other side, thinking "I almost touched the stone on that one, it might count...". Do those super light, no-pressure passes to finish the edge. Tough to get the knife to act controlled with so little pressure, but it pays off in the results.
 
rprocter said:
Chinese man, i have read many of your posts and find them most helpful. i've had my Sharpmaker about 1 month and each time i read one of your posts, i'm able to apply it and get better results. it's a bit of an art (to getting stellar results with the Sharpmaker). thanks, roland
Click to expand...

I'm glad that I'm helping someone! I'm just trying to give back to others what this forum has given me. I know when I first started, it was kinda hard to understand this knife "lingo" we use.
 
I haven't tried any BM knives lately, so they could have improved, but the edge bevels used to be somewhat erratic. Some would come hair-popping sharp, some would require reprofiling to get a decent edge.

If the edge bevel really was set at 30 degrees from the factory and you have been using the 40 degree setting on the Sharpmaker, you are on the right track. You are creating a 40 degree "microbevel" - a tiny secondary bevel right at the edge that actually does the cutting. By using the greater angle, you will take less steel off the blade to establish your cutting edge, although it will be a little less sharp than if you use the 30 degree setting.

154CM is less abrasion resistant than D2 (which is a tool steel formulated for cutting other steel) so it will be easier to sharpen. D2 can be a royal pain to sharpen, especially if you have to reprofile (voice of experience).
 
I know how you feel. I sat there for over 3 hours reprofiling a D2 710 with a sharpmaker. Make sure that you keep the stones clean. They cut into the steel a lot better with clean rods. Also, use the sharpie trick and use only the corners of the grey/brown (whatever color they are) until you get down to the edge. In other words don't worry about using the flats or the white stones until you are actually sharpening the edge not the shoulders of the edge.
 
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