Spyderco sharpening angle

Ok, that last post concerned me. For someone who never sharpened, and has a Persistence and has a Delica coming, Sharpmaker or get stones, like a Norton 220/1000?
 
In my experience, both of those models come with pretty acute angles so chances are, the 30 degree will work for you just fine. I'm not saying the waterstones are good or bad, just different. They will require more time and practice to get it right.

And if you really want to re-bevel your new knives, then buy a couple sheets of sandpaper and wrap the rods. No biggie. I did plenty of them with this method before I got my paper wheels.
 
LawyerSam said:
Ok, that last post concerned me. For someone who never sharpened, and has a Persistence and has a Delica coming, Sharpmaker or get stones, like a Norton 220/1000?
Click to expand...

You shouldn't have any problems using the Sharpmaker. Among many examples of my knvies, I've resharpened my VG-10 Delica's plain edge very easily and an AUS-8 combo-edge Endura; also my PE Salt 1 and Pacific Salt, I was able to resharpen with virtually no effort using the Sharpmaker as well. I also resharpened an Emerson CQC7-A; although the Emerson's single-sided edge bevel did not match the angles of the Sharpmaker, I simply put the edge against the rod, noted the edge angle, and adjusted the angle at which I held the knife accordingly.

I've sometimes wondered if some of the ATS-55 had been heat-treated imperfectly or something. I'd resharpened other ATS-55 knives okay, but some of them seemed a bit more difficult for me than most other steels, even hitting the exact same edge angle. I don't know why, but reading Tomsch's post, it looks like I'm not the only one who's experienced it with an ATS-55 blade.

I mean, getting stones is a good thing, but IMO, if you have never sharpened, the Sharpmaker is a great tool. Even then, you'll get better the more you use it. Because I had never sharpened before owning the Sharpmaker, either. I had the older version, then upgraded to the 204 eight or more years ago.
Jim
 
Last edited:
FlaMtnBkr said:
Just curious, but what is micromesh? .
Click to expand...

It is a washable abrasive cloth Fla. I don't know how it is sold in bulk, but I buy it 1' lengths in grades from 1800 - 6000. Makes putting a convex on a blade very easy, and aggressive stropping/edge polishing a dawdle. I just lay it over a leather pad. don't add any water, oil or such

In fact, on one or two knives with conventional small bevels, I have just stropped them as a mode of sharpening - in time the perfect convex forms of its own volition
 
Noddy, what is the difference between using sandpaper and micromesh for convex sharpening? Also, how do you keep the micromesh taught while sharpening---do you wrap the edges under the pad?

Thanks,

Andrew
 
I use the sharpmaker and a permanent marker to determine the angle and then choose 15 or 20 degrees depending on how I plan to use the particular knife and then if the angles are off, I profile them with the apex edgepro and then maintain them with the sharpmaker until they need to be reset. Normally about once a year or so with a fair bit of use. Love the apex, once you get used to it, it is accurate and doesn't remove too much steel. If you use one for the first time though it is good to practise on an old blade to get the feel of the thing.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top