How To Spyderco Southard Fix

BD_01

BD_01

Joined
Jun 9, 2016
Messages
3,798
I’m a big fan of the Spyderco Southard. It was my first grail knife. In 2016 it was way out of my price range, so it also has the distinction of being the first knife I purchased on the Exchange. I now have two in rotation (brown and black) and a brown one stored as a backup, LNIB.

The knife is amazing in every way…except for the bearing arrangement…which doesn’t live up to the the rest of the knife. I’ve posted before about how I keep mine running well, without replacing the internals, but maybe a dedicated thread will help someone out as a reference. I won’t take credit for discovery; I was clued in by another poster a long, long time ago (no idea what thread)

The bearing cages are some kind of polymer, and they will occasionally swell to the point they bind in their cutouts. When this happens, the flipping action deteriorates quickly. I relieve the OD of the cages so they spin freely in their cutouts, and the knife goes back to a smooth operator. The Southard is intended to be a push-button flipper, btw—not a light switch. Keep the bearings spinning and use push-button technique & the knife is a very satisfying flipper.

T10 pivot; T6 scales



I usually work from the show side.



I push the (keyed) pivot out with a chopstick.



I gently use a wooden clothes pin as a pry bar.

 
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The “bumpy raised” side of the bearing retainer faces the blade from the factory.



The bearings on both sides were really stuck to the cutouts. I had to push them out with the chopstick.



Hmmmm. There’s an extra washer on the show side. I bought this knife dealer new, so that’s from the factory. My brown Southard has only one washer each side, so I‘m going to wager it was an unintentional factory mistake. Regardless, this knife is going to go back together the same way it came apart! I think I recall a poster here or @ Spyderco forum also with a one-side double washer arrangement. Any other Southard owners care to chime in?



I sand down the OD on sand paper, rotating the bearing a few degrees before each arced pass.

 
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I check periodically to see if the retainer is relieved enough to spin freely in its cutout.
This retainer is a bit rough from 320 grit. I subsequently smoothed it out with 600, then 1500. I just used 600/1500 on the other side (probably a smarter choice).



At reassembly, I use very little oil on the bearings, just a single drop from a needle applicator, and a smidge on the pivot bolt. The mess is from oily fingers. Remember the stop pin @ reassembly.



Don’t forget the pivot is keyed and the lockbar wants to push everything apart once you have it lined up. There are lots of contact points that need to stay seated and tolerances are tight. Don’t force it.



I get all the screws started with LocTite 222 (purple/low strength) on T6 and 242 (blue/medium) on everything larger. I then snug the scale screws down fully (in no particular pattern). Lastly I tighten the pivot while looking at blade alignment. I stop when centered and go no further.



This is the first time I’ve had to use this trick on my black Southard. I’ve had to do it 2-3 times on my heavily used brown model. I’ve used the brown one for everything from cutting carpet and scoring sheetrock to making PB&J’s. It’s held up great and is still going strong. Spyderco’s 204p has been very impressive. I swapped the scales between the two just to mix it up a bit.



Feel free to post any fixes you have, including experience with aftermarket bearings—details appreciated! I have a set of Taco’s around somewhere, but with the above fix, I haven’t had the need for them (and my brown user has been running since 2016). Aside from the bearing issues, the Southard is a masterpiece and I intend to keep ’em running!
 
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Something I neglected to mention about the washers: they’re paper thin and they are all dished to some degree. Mine were dished on first disassembly. I suppose over tightening the pivot could lead to worse dishing, which is why I advocate only tightening until the blade is centered, no more.

Put the knife back together with the concavity towards the bearing (and in turn towards the blade).

If your washers are dished to the point they truly impede functionality, sorry, I haven’t been down that road & can’t help you.
 
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Thank you for the info on making the Southard reliable. This is one of the knives I never ended up getting but it's on my Buy/Trade list.
 
I had one, made a Boxwood scale for it, and foolishly sold it. Acquired another one, made a Jatoba scale for it, and will never sell it....
 
Thanks for the info, I’ll be trying this. I don’t think my Southard was ever push button smooth but now it takes a firm flip and a wrist flick. It really needs some attention.
 
Very informative and well done

I encourage y'all to try a set of Skiff or Taco bearings for your Southard. I don't typically see the point in upgrading bearings in most knives. However, replacing Spyderco's plastic set with Skiff bearings made a major improvement to the action of my Dice. It was the best upgrade I've ever done for any of my knives, especially when price is considered
 
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