The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
it's impossible to keep a 100% straight edge , say a 2inch section (yojimbo, shaving razor, etc) , 100% straight. not over time but with the 1st application (following the instructions from the original booklet) will you have generated a recurve.Is the Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker worth the $80 for routine touch-ups..?
Spyderco makes a bigger version, called the Gauntlet. The Sharpmaker is awesome, and the Gauntlet is even more versatile, especially for serrated and recurved blades.
Too much pressure will shorten their lifespan. And if you use a bit of water and a tiny bit of detergent it helps extend their lifespan as well.but they're not exactly cheap and I hear they don't last long enough to justify their cost.
I sort of straddled the fence for years, in deciding if the money I spent for it was worth it. But in continuing to use it and discovering where its sweet spot is in usability, I've come to the conclusion it's well worth it. It's at its very best precisely for those routine, light touchups. Heavier shaping of bevels is better done on something more aggressive that can be used with some pressure. But the SM's 'wheelhouse' is perfectly in that light touch finishing zone - I rely on it more and more for those on-the-fly tuneups and for some precise, measured refinement after setting new bevels on other stones. Once you get the feel for it, it becomes almost automatic and intuitive in use.Is the Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker worth the $80 for routine touch-ups..?
I have just done exactly that on the Idahone V ceramic sharpener on the purple rods. They say they are approx 200 grit, the key is just using the bottom half of the rods, then you can apply more pressure. Takes time, but can be done. Once a burr is formed on one side it does not take long to finish the other side. Not the best way to do it, but it is doable. Don't know about the harder steels though, i suspect that might be an issue.Heavier shaping of bevels is better done on something more aggressive that can be used with some pressure.
Yeah, I do my bevel-setting and at least some refinement on bench stones or diamond hones. One of my favorite strategies lately, for both simple stainless like 420HC and more wear-resistant stuff like S30V, is to set the bevels with an XC or Coarse diamond hone to full apex. Then, apply a very, very minimal microbevel on the Sharpmaker with the corners of either the medium or fine ceramic rods. That tiny microbevel with the SM's ceramic rods does a nice job cleaning up the burr remnants and also narrows the apex a bit more. So, with that med/fine ceramic micro atop the XC/C diamond scratch pattern, it makes for a vicious slicing edge. Each complements the other - and that's what I think is the best aspect of using the SM. It's a very good enhancement tool, used very minimally. For cleaning up edges, my SM replaces any need for stropping after sharpening, most of the time.I have just done exactly that on the Idahone V ceramic sharpener on the purple rods. They say they are approx 200 grit, the key is just using the bottom half of the rods, then you can apply more pressure. Takes time, but can be done. Once a burr is formed on one side it does not take long to finish the other side. Not the best way to do it, but it is doable. Don't know about the harder steels though, i suspect that might be an issue.
So, with that med/fine ceramic micro atop the XC/C diamond scratch pattern, it makes for a vicious slicing edge. Each complements the other -