Steel structure and edge polish (ATS-34)

Cliff Stamp

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For some time now I have been interested in how the structure of the steel will effect the level of finish it can take. However after trying quite a lot of different steels as well as other alloys I was never able to see a real difference in regards to the maximum level of edge polish. No matter what the blade material I could obtain a smooth push shaving sharpness. To be a bit more specific this is the ability to shave fine hair on a straight push, no slicing motion and without skin irritation from excessive force. At this level of edge finish the blade will push cut through photocopy paper and cut light thread at about 115 +/- 10 g of force.

Recently I have been taking the edge angles down on most of my knives to examine how it effects cutting performance across a broad range of tasks as well as to see just how much support an edge needs. It was while doing this that I finally began to see the edge finish being effected by the structure of the steel. In the limiting case for a light use knife I had reduced the edge angle of my Sub-Sniper from Lynn Griffith to under ten degrees per side. I noticed after polishing that the edge seemed to be more aggressive on cutting rope than I expected. When I checked it under a scope I saw the edge was not uniform, it was missing small micron sized pieces. At the time I made nothing much of it, just assuming it was sloppy sharpening.

Recently I went back to this knife and attempted to put a polish on it that produced an edge that was uniform under a 10x magnification, thus the edge "damage" had to be under 10 microns. I first tried a series of DMT diamond abrasives, finishing with a 1200 grit ultra-fine pad. The edge was very sharp and push shaved easily but was not smooth under magnification. I then tried stropping it on CrO loaded leather, which did improve it some, but did not completely polish the edge. I figured that it might be the nature of the abrasive that was damaging the edge so I switched to a series of Japanese waterstones. I ended up with a 4000 grit finish, however the edge finish was not uniform under magnification. The edge "tooth" should be just at the limit of resolution as the stone is about 9 microns, however I could see pieces missing from the edge that were much larger.

To check to make sure that what I was seeing was the effect of the grain size and not the abrasive I took out my CrO loaded leather and prepared for a long session of stropping. After fifty passes per side the edge was looking much more uniform. After another fifty passes per side the improvement continued. For reference the CrO buffing compound is very fine, Lee Valley has it listed as 0.5 micron so it is capable of a finish as fine as the finest grained steel. However after another fifty passes per side the edge on the Sub-Sniper started to degrade. Now I could see pieces missing that were about 30 +/- 10 microns in depth. This makes sense to me because that abrasive can not cut the carbides so all it will do is remove the surrounding metal and eventually the carbides will have no support and break away from the edge.

Now to clarify, the knife is by any means sharp. The edge is ground to 8.3 +/- 0.2 degrees per side and will push cut light thread only requiring 65 +/- 5 g of force, note from above this is almost twice as sharp as "shaving sharp". Not only will the knife shave very well, if you angle it slightly it will crop off fine hairs above the skin. It will also just cut clean through quarter inch poly under a 1000 g load with no slicing movement required, the weight is enough to pull the blade right through the cord. So simply put the knife is very sharp indeed - however the grain size is limiting the sharpness somewhat because of the "holes" left in the edge. How much effect can only be estimated when a finer grained steel is taken to the same angle.

Which brings up the last point. Why does angle make a difference? Well the more obtuse the edge angle the thicker the edge which means the greater the size of carbide it can support. As the edge gets ground thinner and thinner eventually it will become so thin that carbides can't actually fit in there any more and thus when the edge is finely honed, the carbides break out leaving holes and thus reduce the push cutting performance. You also lose a lot of wear resistance as the carbides are the primary source of this aspect of performance.

Note all of the above is only dealing with sharpness as it effects push cutting performance. Knives are also used to slice materials and this pretty much desires the exact opposite set of characteristics. The optimum push cutting edge is completely smooth, the optimum slicing edge has enough edge irregularities (i.e. "tooth") so enable large scale tearing of the material being cut. In general steels with large grains sizes and large carbides will slice better than fine grained ones with small carbides when both steels are at a high level of polish. However the slicing performance of any steel is dramatically effected by the edge finish, no steel at a high level of polish (CrO for example ), can come close to even the finest grained steel at a coarse polish (fine Diamond for example).

However there are of course other aspects to consider besides raw slicing performance. Edge retention for example, the edge life on the polished steel is controlled mainly by the carbides, the edge life on the coarsely ground fine grained steel is much shorter as it is controlled by the durability of the "teeth".

-Cliff
 
Interesting stuff Cliff. What is the edge durability like on the Sub Sniper with the angle so low? i.e., will it fold up like tinfoil when cutting anything besides thread? Whittling on softwood or hardwood for example, or breaking down a cardboard box in a controlled fashion?
 
Thank you for your usual in-depth comments, Cliff. It continues to amaze me how the seemingly simple issue of edge sharpness and geometry is in reality a highly complex study.

Your input is appreciated.
 
Burke :

What is the edge durability like on the Sub Sniper with the angle so low? i.e., will it fold up like tinfoil when cutting anything besides thread? Whittling on softwood or hardwood for example, or breaking down a cardboard box in a controlled fashion?

No, I have done long sessions on soft to medium class woods and the edge holding is fine. To be a bit more specific these were whittling on scrap lumber using high force, about 75 +/- 10 lbs of drive. Here is an example of the edge holding :

http://www.physics.mun.ca/~sstamp/images/ss_rd_edge_percent.gif

The circles are the Sub-Sniper's performance (the +'s are a Tanto from Running Dog knives). After 1500 cuts through wood the Sub-Sniper is still above 60% of its optimal sharpness. To quantify sharpness I was slicing 1/4" poly under a 700 g load.

That graph is from the review of the Running Dog Traditional Tanto :

http://www.physics.mun.ca/~sstamp/knives/running_dog_tanto.html

Note in the above work the Sub-Sniper had an edge about 1-2 degrees higher than it is now, however I have done similar cutting with it in its current state. I have damaged it (surprise) but only from coming in contact with hardened metal, cutting around bone would not be healthy for it either, a bad twist and you would probably remove a significant piece of the edge.

Thanks all.

-Cliff
 
Cliff, thanks for the great info. I'd love to see the same thing done with other steels to see how they compare.

Thanks,
 
Marion :

You damage blades?

Yes, I had trouble believing it myself.

Jason, yes so would I. I have work planned with a few other blades of a finer grain size to explore in some detail if indeed as I put forth in the above that it is a structure limitation.

-Cliff
 
It would be interesting to extract an individual fiber from the gloves that dulled your test blade and estimate the hardness of the material. I suspect that the fibers may have been fabricated using some degree of cold forming that gave them extra hardness yet high tensile strength like piano wire.

I would suggest BG42 as an interesting contrast to ATS-34. My expectation is that you could achieve a finer edge with the BG42, but I'm not convinced that it would hold the edge longer. It would be an interesting comparison since the alloys are so similar.
 
BG-42 would be interesting to look at, I don't have on on hand however and don't see that changing any time soon unless I spot a R.J. Martin small BG-42 neck knife on the secondary market. However for a small light use knife I would be more interested in CPM-420V. Next year I will probably seriously look for such a blade to replace the Sub-Sniper, which is now EDC. Is there anyone doing such a blade with full cryogenic heat treatment to 61-63 RC, blade at a maximum of 0.01" thick behind the bevel? The stainless version of 3V might be interesting offering a wider range of work given the extra toughness.

-Cliff
 
Cliff, Generally work that you describe is done by polishing and then etching the material to be studied. The polished specimen is then viewed by an optical microscope specifically design for metalurgical studies. The distances that you are talking about in microns are quite small as one micron is a thousandth of a mm. How did you conduct your measurements? To further your studies of edge performance you may want to obtain a polisher and microscope designed for metalurgical studies. I am not critizing your work but only trying to inform you that there are specific tools available on the market for what you are attempting to accomplish. If you are not a metalurgist, you may also want to pick up an elementary text on metalurgy. The work itself is very interestting.- Dick
 
Bud :

Generally work that you describe is done by polishing and then etching the material to be studied.

Yes, this is the optimal way to look at the structure of the steel. I might explore this in detail later next year with the help of a few friends in engineering.

How did you conduct your measurements?

Microscope. Another aspect I will be looking at next year is hooking up a simple motor and digital camera to pan across the edge and thus record a mpg of the edge for future reference.

-Cliff
 
It would be interesting to see the effect of a polished edge on tool steel or a fine grain steel, or a simple carbon steel. I would guess the more uniform edge would push cut better.

This is an interesting thread. A year or more Joe Talmadge posted results of thinning bevels to 15 deggrees ona Calypso Jr (AUS-8) and gettin very sharp results. I repeated his experiments and may have gone to slighly keener bevels. The knife also a Calypso Jr Aus-8 did get very sharp. However, in normal use the edge became raggard and chipped out pretty easy. However, nursing on a Sharpmaker at 40 degree primary bevel with the keen secondary bevel proved to be very good combination.
 
Roger Blake :

It would be interesting to see the effect of a polished edge on tool steel or a fine grain steel, or a simple carbon steel. I would guess the more uniform edge would push cut better.

Yes, this is one of the things I intend to look at in some detail this winter with various stock cutting. In general though, you will see a larger increase in slicing performance with various grit finishes than push cutting, assuming you are cutting materials that are fairly large when compared to the size of the edge bevel (ie. not thread, light fabrics, paper etc. ).

However, in normal use the edge became raggard and chipped out pretty easy.

Such is the nature of stainless steels, large carbides, segregation, and a brittle matrix, not the ideal recipe for a high performance thin edge. The new CPM stainless steels combat this problem however to a large degree as they avoid carbide segragation and focus on Vanadium carbides which are smaller than the Chromium ones, not to mention harder. If you get a chance try a similar experiment with CPM-S90V with a full cryo treatment.

However, nursing on a Sharpmaker at 40 degree primary bevel with the keen secondary bevel proved to be very good combination.

Yes, this is a very valuable point which Joe illustrated very well. If your edge is being damaged you don't need to thicken the whole thing, just a small micro bevel which is more obtuse will solve the problem.

-Cliff
 
Cliff, optical microscopes for metalurgy, generally have some sort of photographic connection to record your 'micrographs'. Unfortunately, this equipment is generally quite expensive, A Ziess Ultraphot I purchased for my Department in 1971 cost $13K at the time and I expect that something like that would cost about 50K now. Prices may have come down or you might contact the metalurgy department at a local university and ask to us thier equipment. Better still, enroll in classes and I am sure you would be able to use the equipment. To complete your studies and make them rigorous, you need to use the right equipment. As I said, you are doing very interesting work for both knife people and metalurgists. You might even search journals for any simlilar studies. -Dick
 
Bud :

optical microscopes for metalurgy, generally have some sort of photographic connection to record your 'micrographs'.

Yes, note however that the level of magnification they provide is far in excess of the above aspect I describe as it is only about one order below the visible. Even a much lower level of magnification would be very valuable. For example after using two blades for chopping, record a mpg which runs along the edge at the 50 micron level and thus produce a visual record of the induced damage. This would give valuable information on the underlying root cause of the edge degredation, is it due to impaction, rolling, fracture or wear?

It would however as you note be quite beneficial to see the underlying microscopic details (grain size, carbide structure) as it would take a lot of the assumptions out of the work because then the makeup of the edge would be known. It would go one step further and explain the how and why of the manner in which the microscopic aspects of grain size and carbide structure control the the macroscopic effects of edge damage at the 100 micron level. That is something I have been planning to look at in some detail for some time. I have discussed it with friends in the engineering department.

Right now though I am focused on more macroscopic issues like the influence of geometry on cutting ability, something which I still have a ways to go with. The above post is for now more of a side issue. However in retrospect it is fundamental as you noted for a serious body of work.

-Cliff
 
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