STickied best-of posts

J

Joe Talmadge

Joined
Oct 3, 1998
Messages
4,842
We have some really strong how-to posts here. Anyone think it would be useful to collect the strongest one in a sticked thread? For example, this recent one from nozh on his sharpening technique: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=549075

If you like the idea, please reply with links to candidate threads, I'll gather them up and sticky the best of them in a thread on the top. Be a nice place for newbies to start, and for old timers to use as a reference. They don't have to be video threads, just good solid informative threads
 
+1 on the sharpening article. That should definitely be a sticky like the steel article.
 
Several times I've seen Jeff Clark describe in detail how he removes a wire edge using the Sharpmaker at elevated angle. I can't seem to locate one of those threads using Google, but it's a great technique worthy of a sticky.
 
I bookmarked the attached link as a major thread on burr removal. I'd like to preface the link with a comment on burrs. Note that you see the following effects most strikingly when you hone at really low (razor-like) angles. When you hone at an extremely acute angle the material at the apex of your edge gets thin and can flop away from your hone ductily like aluminum foil rather than getting cleanly removed, this is a "burr". The material can also flex away from the hone elastically like a thin spring which causes the apex of the edge to look more like ll than like V (in straight razor honing circles this is called the "fin". If you lightly steel or strop a blade you may line up the burr or fin and it will do a nice job of whittling hair, but it is not as durable as most people want for a knife. To get back to an acute V for the apex of your edge you must overcome the ductility of the foil-like burr or the elasticity of the fin. You can attack this problem most directly by increasing your honing angle significantly higher than normal to cut off the base of the burr or to compensate for the flexing of the fin. How much you have to do this depends on the ductility/hardness of your steel and your original honing angle. I go back and do a little normal angle honing after I debur to restore maximal sharpness. I always debur with very light pressure and only a few strokes. In the linked thread the subject is how to address a particularly difficult deburring situation. In most cases you wouldn't have to go to such extreme measures.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=355227
 
Couple more suggestions, Joe:

First, we get a lot of questions about lubricants for knives, maybe some links to pertinent threads would be good (there may be others better than these, just some better ones I found off Google):

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=458197

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=524772

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=529138


Also, "fulloflead’s Great Rust Experiment II" is a classic:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=389685
 
How 'bout the often asked question "What stones should I buy?" A collection of different "sets" of stones (as assembled by various members) would be helpful. A no-muss-no-fuss set of diamond stones, a traditional set of waterstones, the best of man-made ceramic stones, a bargain set, a beginners set, a cost-no-object deluxe set, a ...
 
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