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- Dec 10, 2006
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You can see from the videos that even with blade play a lock can still be very secure, very reliable and would require the entire lock to self-destruct in order to disengage.
Real interesting comments from Gavkoo on the folder of Kyle and what makers such as Bob Terzuola said about bladeplay being a thread for the specific market, yet there is nothing wrong with the design.
People presume that blade play is bad, but not for a reliable lock. I would venture and say that the Victorinox soldier will only fail if there is a catastrophic failure of nature, same as the Tri-Ad. Under static load, the soldier might even surprise the best of us.
Interesting thing on how durable a liner can be:
I hope this can be useful and educational to some. I know I went a bit of topic... from steel vs Ti, but you have to look at it as a whole in my opinion 
One of the best ways I have seen to test a liner/framelock for any issues is to do the following (this was posted back in 2007):
Umnumzaan design:
The ceramic ball lockup is supposed to look late, but in in reality is not.
Real interesting comments from Gavkoo on the folder of Kyle and what makers such as Bob Terzuola said about bladeplay being a thread for the specific market, yet there is nothing wrong with the design.
People presume that blade play is bad, but not for a reliable lock. I would venture and say that the Victorinox soldier will only fail if there is a catastrophic failure of nature, same as the Tri-Ad. Under static load, the soldier might even surprise the best of us.
Interesting thing on how durable a liner can be:

One of the best ways I have seen to test a liner/framelock for any issues is to do the following (this was posted back in 2007):
STR;368958 said:Now to the test method I prefer. I recommend standing with the knife like you see me holding an Emerson liner lock here in the link below. But I also recommend you make sure the lock is getting behind the blade at least to the full thickness of the liner itself before doing this test if you are carrying a thinner liner locking folder. However even on the thicker liner locks and frame locks doing it with barely any lock touching the blade to make contact can possibly shear or ding in part of the lock making it either unsightly or worse so the lock should be at least 50% behind the locks on these thicker lock styles if you ask me.
I've shown this test to people that have carried liner locks for many years thinking they walked on water (as I once did also) only to see their faces when they pushed up on the spine of the blade while securing it just as I'm doing here in the link below only to see the lock slide off the ramp interface and allow the blade to close on their very trusted knife and sometimes surprisingly with very little pressure at all. If the lock even moves at all in this test its not good. You can candy coat it all you want but its not good. A surprising number of knives tested this way fail surprisingly easy. If your lock moves a little but doesn't fail on you from this test, well you have to decide then if its one you want to just use knowing this, or send it in to who made it for evaluation or if its just time to retire it. The reason I say this is simply because of this thought. Just because it moved a little and didn't defeat with the pressure you could muster with this test doesn't mean that a stronger man, or more pressure from an extreme use of the tip won't cause the blade to close on your fingers. Only you can decide on the action you take at this point. And in fact if it moves or defeats you can decide then and there if you want to continue on or mail it for repairs at that point for the professional to look at.
You should do this with your lockback and axis lock folders, and all other 'locking' folders too on occasion as well as check the lock mechanisms for debris, pocket lint, damage and if they have springs check their condition as well unless you can't see them of course. Small spots of corrosion, or thinned weak looking areas on springs should be dealt with by a qualified repair pesron promptly when it comes to securing your fingers..Injury from a sharp blade closing on fingers can lead to serious incapacitation for a lengthy time, numbness or loss of other sensitivity in the fingers, tendon damage and lots of blood loss. Don't risk it out of blind faith.
Hold your knife so if the lock defeats you won't get cut just as I'm doing here in the link. You owe it to your fingers to know not suspect or blindly trust that the knife was made correctly. You don't have to cock your wrist as I did here. I'm just doing that for my wife to get it in the shot easier. Hold it with both hands and using your strong hand with the blade resting on that index finger knuckle simply push up on the spine of your blade holding the body tight so its steady.
You can spine whack your knife if you just believe it causes no damage. But don't be surprised if when you find that it does in fact fail tests that the company doesn't cover the warranty due to the damage it caused to your folder on the inside. I'll leave your decision up to you when and if you cross that bridge.
STR
Umnumzaan design:
The ceramic ball lockup is supposed to look late, but in in reality is not.
peppercorn;10013751 said:Some of you wanted to see macr shots of the Umnumzaan after seeing the Sebenza shots in my other thread and,well, with such awesome feedback how could I resist.
So in no particular order here they are....let me know what you think.
Also, I was shooting outside and as luck would have it it started to rain and so you may see a drop or two of water in some of the shots. Luckily it's all stainless!
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Added a little canned air to the perforated washer while trying to combat the rain drops and inadvertantly created a 'spinner'.
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