Off Topic Stopped caring about edge-retention

I don't mind softer steels simply because I can fix boo boos in them faster/easier.

For me, super steels are academic. I like what they offer on paper, I appreciate the strengths that they bring to the table, and I understand the short comings of dealing with a harder steel. Even still, a 204P Ultratech is in my pocket as I type. I doubt I'll ever need to sharpen it even though it sports what I would consider just a mediocre level of sharpness simply because it does what I require of an EDC and I don't anticipate using it to skin a moose this afternoon. It should hold its edge forever as long as I don't bang it into a hard staple or counter top with just the occasional stropping. For me, Super Steels are just convenience things.

Now, if I were dropped into the forest for an extended period of time, I think I would rather have a soft 1095 57 hardness knife and an Arkansas stone over a super steel. I can fix dings over chips and can work a hair popping edge with a found rock if we are going down that tired old rabbit hole.

In short, soft or super, I maintain my carry tools weekly, so I notice no great difference. Both have pros and cons, and the superiority of said steel is actually not that high on my list of "needs" when considering a purchase. I'm much more interested in lock up/toughness/and fit over how high end the steel is.
 
I keep my double sided diamond stone in my lunchbox so I can sharpen my knives at work if need be, but I almost never have to. I generally sharpen other people's knives more often! But I use everything from 8cr to s90v, so a diamond stone is almost necessary.

If I'm out doing yard work or we're hiking in the woods, I've got a Becker on me and I can sharpen them on a rock. They seem to hold their edge very well so that's never been an issue.
 
We all have different cutting needs, and we all have different sharpening skills. That is why there are so many steels to begin with. What is better for me, may not be better for you.
 
Twindog said:
To me, this reads like another troll thread. The OP has to use soft steel because only a cheap sharpening stone will fit in his glove box. A small diamond stone, obviously, won't fit. Right.

If you look at Ankerson's tests, you'll see Aus 8 and VG10 blades getting 160 cuts. While a production Spyderco in Maxamet gets 1,940 -- 12 times more.

So the OP is going to sharpen his Aus 8 knife 12 times a day as an EDC? While the Maxamet will need no sharpening. So his choice is the cheap steel? Come on. If his EDC gets dull that many times a day, he should look to a utility knife with disposable blades.
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I carry almost exclusively super steel knives now but I don't necessarily think this is a troll. There is still some use for softer steels and if your use for your blade for the most part is some letter opening, light food prep, and occasionally breaking down some cardboard, AUS8 is going to do fine with that. You can touch it up easily on a normal hone that you have on hand. Diamond stones even pocket versions aren't cheap so if someone is going to carry a 50$ blade with AUS8 they probably dont want to spend more than their knife is worth on diamond hones.
 
jfk1110 said:
Definitely has merit, however this can be gotten around by carrying multiple knives! I always have 2 folders and a fixed blade on me. Also always have my money clip which has a small blade and a SAK too. Leave the sharpening for home where you can do a.proper job!!View attachment 1512146
Today's carry above and every day same olds below. Also the folders are VG10 & 440C!!!!
View attachment 1512147
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Day-Yum jfk,
I always like looking at pics of your hoard in the folder/fixed thread but you do leave the house well steeled. I agree with you on having multiple knives - plain and serrated, fixed/folder or, as makes sense sometimes, a "good" knife and a beater/loaner.

soc_monki said:
[...] If I'm out doing yard work or we're hiking in the woods, I've got a Becker on me and I can sharpen them on a rock. They seem to hold their edge very well so that's never been an issue.
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+1 on 1095 (especially 1095 CroVan) and, of course, Becker knives; they are reasonably priced, provide good ergos and performance with a company behind the product that takes customer service very seriously.

I too am in the camp of more modest steels. I have a few knives in AUS8, 8Cr --- or 440C that suit my purposes just fine as I'm never that far from the bottom of a ceramic coffee cup or dish or the top of my pick-up's window. I will take the function of frequent and quick touch-ups over grinding away with diamond stones any day. I'm not saying that I don't enjoy my CPM-S35VN knives (I adore the AD-10) but 1095 CroVan and 154CM or even some lessers have served me quite well. I just have to remember to finish my coffee before turning the cup upside down!
 
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I find that I like the S35VNish area best. Edge retention that I don't have to sharpen every damn time I use it, but still pretty easy to reset an edge on.

I care about edge retention, but it is far from my biggest concern. I feel like edge retention compared to ease of sharpening are very important factors.
 
Steely_Gunz said:
I don't mind softer steels simply because I can fix boo boos in them faster/easier.

For me, super steels are academic. I like what they offer on paper, I appreciate the strengths that they bring to the table, and I understand the short comings of dealing with a harder steel. Even still, a 204P Ultratech is in my pocket as I type. I doubt I'll ever need to sharpen it even though it sports what I would consider just a mediocre level of sharpness simply because it does what I require of an EDC and I don't anticipate using it to skin a moose this afternoon. It should hold its edge forever as long as I don't bang it into a hard staple or counter top with just the occasional stropping. For me, Super Steels are just convenience things.

Now, if I were dropped into the forest for an extended period of time, I think I would rather have a soft 1095 57 hardness knife and an Arkansas stone over a super steel. I can fix dings over chips and can work a hair popping edge with a found rock if we are going down that tired old rabbit hole.

In short, soft or super, I maintain my carry tools weekly, so I notice no great difference. Both have pros and cons, and the superiority of said steel is actually not that high on my list of "needs" when considering a purchase. I'm much more interested in lock up/toughness/and fit over how high end the steel is.
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What he said goes for me also.
 
image.jpeg image.jpeg I use other knives as finishing "steels" to touch up and restore my microedges. In the kitchen, I use a fixed blade Ceramic knife. On the road, I use a folding knife with a Ceramic or Ceramic coated blade. The Ceramic blades are Zirconium Carbide. The Ceramic coating is Titanium Nitride. The blade being tuned is San Mai ZDP-189 at 67 HRC (Hardness Rockwell C scale).
image.jpeg
 
tiguy7 said:
View attachment 1512498 View attachment 1512497 I use other knives as finishing "steels" to touch up and restore my microedges. In the kitchen, I use a fixed blade Ceramic knife. On the road, I use a folding knife with a Ceramic or Ceramic coated blade. The Ceramic blades are Zirconium Carbide. The Ceramic coating is Titanium Nitride. The blade being tuned is San Mai ZDP-189 at 67 HRC (Hardness Rockwell C scale).
View attachment 1512496
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lol, I've never tried this, but it sounds logical.
 
Nothing really new to add, but I’d like to reiterate some of the excellent points here. As long as you have a decent sharpener and sufficient sharpening skills, non-supersteels will serve you just fine. When you understand their limitations and don’t go too nuts with them, there isn’t much to worry about. The “worst” steels I currently have are 8cr, 4034, 4116, and they’re holding up just fine.

That said, I am grateful for the higher end steels that we have on the market today, especially for folding knives. S35VN, XHP, and S110V are all very nice to have, and you get some joy out of the usage knowing that your knife will hold its edge.
 
I agree with you !
I prefer a knife I can sharpen fairly easily.
S30v or tool steel is in that area of workability and ease of maintenance .

I am attempting to avoid the really superior edge holding steels myself.
There is a m390 I've been eyeing, holding out for this exact reason.
 
Sweet spot for me is CTS HXP or S35VN in Cold Steel ~$100 or less . :cool::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Great balance of properties , not crazy expensive or extremely hard to sharpen .

Diamond sharpeners are fairly cheap and ubiquitous these days . Some are very compact and easy to carry . :)
 
I also stopped caring about edge retention since I bought a set of DMT plates and made a few diamond strops for my super steel folders. :D I started thinning and microconvexing the factory edges on most of them (the Chaparral is thin already). A Maxamet PM2 edge will last up to a month, M4 will last two-three weeks. a Native Salt SE will last up to two weeks in my hands. Currently I am using an S110V Millie and it is still sharp after a few weeks of light use.
No touch-ups! Only use.
I reprofiled/thinned a Rex45 Native and it is waiting to be tested next.

Another option are serrations, they will outlast PE and they are as easy to sharpen. I just use the corners on Naniwa stones.

D2 is another option, better than most budget steels. I knocked off the "shoulders" (microconvexed) a Steel Will Cutjack and it is a much better knife now, a joy to use.

Finally, I agree with jfk, there is strength in numbers.
 
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tiguy7 said:
View attachment 1512498 View attachment 1512497 I use other knives as finishing "steels" to touch up and restore my microedges. In the kitchen, I use a fixed blade Ceramic knife. On the road, I use a folding knife with a Ceramic or Ceramic coated blade. The Ceramic blades are Zirconium Carbide. The Ceramic coating is Titanium Nitride. The blade being tuned is San Mai ZDP-189 at 67 HRC (Hardness Rockwell C scale).
View attachment 1512496
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Awesome, love this! Like killing two birds with one stone and seems easier than carrying around a Spyderco sharpener or strops.
 
I've used the bottom of an (empty) ceramic cup to touch up a edge a few times, and just dry stropped using my leather belt.
(if you use an other than empty cup, it makes a mess, BTW :) )

Nice thing about the "obsolete" "budget steels" like 440A/7CR14MoV, whatever it is Victorinox uses, and whatever Mora's and Opinle's carbon steel is, 420 HC, and 1095, stropping will usually restore to at least a working edge.
I also "cheat". If I'm cutting a bunch of cardboard, fiberglass/carbon fiber, scoring drywall, or trimming roofing tiles, cutting carpet/linoleum, opening bags of concrete, sand, fertilizer, etc., I use a Stanley box/utility knife, not my "good" (note quotes) knife.
 
I prefer to have a hair popping edge and resharpen often rather than a long working edge. I wish S30V and the other S??V steels weren't so prevalent, they make sense for the majority of the knife buying public that appreciates a working edge for a longer period and may not be as caring or even able to get and maintain a scalpel like edge for use.

I do however like good D2 with a toothy edge, cuts like a demon in my experience, but generally prefer finer grained steels and am very happy with 14C28N, N690, 154CM, 440C, 12C27, 1095, and VG-10.
I want to try M390 as its a steel I haven't used before.
 
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