Straight Handle on a Single Bit Axe

Col Defender

Col Defender

Joined
Nov 11, 2011
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In his book "The Ax Book", D. Cook argues that all axes, single and double bit, should have straight handles. His argument goes something like this. A hundred years ago, professional loggers used single bit axes with straight handles. Then along came double bit axes which have always had straight handles and all the pros switched over to double bits and never looked back. It was after that changeover that curved handles came on the market and the hardware stores got on board so since then all the single bits had curved handles. But the pros, now armed with their double bits, never used the curved handles on any axes. He goes on to support his case with a bunch of diagrams and analysis of rotational forces concluding that the straight handle is more efficient on all axes.

Well.....I don't really know but since I had several single bit heads in the shop I thought it would be fun to hang this Kelly on a straight haft and finished it yesterday. I have not tried it out yet but I do kind of like how it looks

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I don't put a lot of stock in Cook's assertions. There are ergonomic advantages to the curved handle that may outweigh any advantages offered by the straight haft. Peter Vido makes a more compelling argument for the straight haft based on his own personal experiences, though he also draws heavily on Cook and uses Cooks illustrations.

http://axeconnected.blogspot.com/2011/02/straight-versus-curved.html

Personally I will put a straight handle on any impact tool in which I intend to use both ends of the tool. Using a curved haft upside down is no fun.
 
Certainly strength-wise the argument for straight handles is quite apparent. As with all fashion and consumerism no doubt commercial handle makers had to come up with gimmicks that distinguished their product from somebody else's and adding feminine-looking curves to handles was no big deal for them. But trying to recreate one of these yourself in a manner whereby the grain follows the shape gets to be a whole other ballgame.
I use a Pulaski quite a bit (for levelling ground, grubbing roots and stones and for splitting fire wood on camping trips) and I don't find any lack of comfort from having to use a straight handle vs a curved.
 
Square_peg said:
I don't put a lot of stock in Cook's assertions. There are ergonomic advantages to the curved handle that may outweigh any advantages offered by the straight haft.
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Can we go over these again? I remember one, being one of the more prevalent points, that for example standing on top of the log and chopping or scoring, the curve facilitates a more comfortable position for the wrists. I think that's true, but I think you can do the same thing by shortening a straight handle a few inches and closing the hafting angle between the head and the throw. It accomplishes the same thing while keeping the handle straight and all that entails in way of inherent strength, less wasteful to make, more accurate (oops, did I do that?) and so on. In other words, these ergonomic advantages can be had without the use of the sharp curve that Cook says is a no-no. And for whatever it's worth, I do believe that Peter likes curved handles, but only curved certain ways. As long as it adheres to the concept of the "axis" passing close to the bit as possible given all the details.
 
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Analogy to this is pistol grips on rifle stocks. Rifles, nor side by side shotguns, generally did not have them until the early 1900s. Ergonomics is improved ever so slightly via a curved grip but I personally have always preferred the straight grip on a Springfield Krag and early 03 than on the later 03s.
 
Got a personal preference for straight handles, myself. I have cut a lot of wood with a curved handle ax, however. I find that with a straight handle I have an easier time avoiding "Lightning" strikes.:D By which I mean I have better aim instead of "never strike twice in the same spot." Aside from making my own I'm on the hunt for some straight Link handles in Canada. Link says they still make them, but I have yet to see any straight handles except for maul handles from them. I could cut down a maul handle to fit the eye on a single-bit axe head. May have to go that route -- checked my axe handle stock pile yesterday and there's about a million wasps up in the attic of the shop. I'll have to shoot a few cans of Raid up there and hope they don't figure out who's doin' it. May just wait for -20 and then they won't be in a mood to come after me.
 
Square_peg said:
There are ergonomic advantages to the curved handle that may outweigh any advantages offered by the straight haft.
Click to expand...

G-pig said:
Can we go over these again?
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Sure! Let's start with this. Stand up and let your arm hang down at your side naturally. Now grasp a thin rod or pencil through the middle of your palm and grip. Then raise your arm up parallel to the ground. See the angle of the pencil? It's leaning forward about 20°. This is the natural angle of the grip in your palm. Note that the pencil is not pointing straight forward as it would if your natural grip was tilted forward in the way you hold a straight-hafted axe. Your natural grip angle is the key to the ergonomic advantage of a curved handle. It takes less energy and it is more comfortable to maintain a grip at the natural angle of your palm and wrist than it does to maintain a grip twisted down to accommodate a straight handle. And when you add a large unclipped fawn's foot style swell to your curved handle it multiplies this gained grip advantage.

Additionally, the curved handle and fawn's foot design is a safer grip. The axe is less likely to slip from the hand and injure the user or a bystander. This design also allows one to slightly relax the grip during the swing, producing more snap in the final motion of the axe just before impact. This creates more head speed and deeper penetration. In an earlier thread I compared this relaxed grip to 'iron & silk' in martial arts. Master Pan teaches that the punching arm, wrist and hand should remain loose and as flexible as a silk scarf during the swing, but clench hard as iron just before impact.

D. Cook also asserts that professionals didn't use curved handles. Hogwash! Industry drove the axe market and industry demanded the most efficient tool - the curved handle. As an example here are the axe handle specs for the Pennsylvania Railroad.

Axe%20handle%20dimensions.jpg
 
All the above set aside, I still enjoy using straight handled axes along with my curved handled axes. I'm currently working on another straight handle. I believe that the key to keeping a straight handle comfortable and efficient is make them with a large and abrupt swell.

The differences between curved and straight are subtle and probably not enough to make much difference for the casual user - provided that both styles are done well.
 
Useful and informative posts for a change. Penn Railroad purchase order clerks would be no wiser about anything useful other than what they'd been told to get/look for. And workers don't want to hear they've been entirely outfitted with 'least expensive/lowest bidder' goods. Slightly more expensive curvy axe handles vs straight definitely qualifies in this regard. What were National/State Fair axe competitors using for handles at the time?
I worked for gov't of Ontario (Dept of Lands & Forests) 45 years ago and they (we; workers) quickly discovered that lowest-bidder canoe paddles (crudely-made pine instead of crafted cherry/ash) were not at all durable or cost-saving over the long run.
 
Square_peg said:
Sure! Let's start with this. Stand up and let your arm hang down at your side naturally. Now grasp a thin rod or pencil through the middle of your palm and grip. Then raise your arm up parallel to the ground. See the angle of the pencil? It's leaning forward about 20°. This is the natural angle of the grip in your palm. Note that the pencil is not pointing straight forward as it would if your natural grip was tilted forward in the way you hold a straight-hafted axe. Your natural grip angle is the key to the ergonomic advantage of a curved handle. It takes less energy and it is more comfortable to maintain a grip at the natural angle of your palm and wrist than it does to maintain a grip twisted down to accommodate a straight handle. And when you add a large unclipped fawn's foot style swell to your curved handle it multiplies this gained grip advantage.
Click to expand...

Ok, that was the main point that I bore in mind with point before. Yes, over extending the wrists is no fun. This is less of an issue, I think, with a straight handle in felling. It's bucking and scoring while standing on the log that is the main issue here. I still maintain that a fawns foot swell (curve NOT withstanding) instead of a flat, symmetrical double bit style swell, along with a shorter handle and a more closed hafting angle can facilitate the same wrist sparing that the curve will, without the issues. The bit and it's angle of presentation can't be ignored here.
 
Straight is handy because if your handle breaks, it's easier to make a new one to replace in the field with another straight. But from a purely force and ergonomic argument, curved has an advantage with single bits.
 
Questions for those with more information:

Who is this Cook guy and what are his qualifications (or lack thereof) to address what seems to be a question of applied physics?

Which professionals used curved-handled axes?

Isn't it a given that industry makes what sells?

A lot of chopping has done with tools other than axes. Curved handles on grubbing hoes etc?

When did the curved handle show up and why did it take centuries to learn it was "better"?

Is anyone making single-bit axes with straight handles? If so, why?

Now I confess my prejudice. My Mom's Dad was born in 1886. His parents' house and his house (when me married and set up a separate household) were heated with wood until he moved his family west in 1933. He cut his own wood. Natural gas in California slowed him down but did not stop his chopping activity. All his axes had straight handles. He seemed to regard curved handles as a passing fad.
 
Square_peg said:
This design also allows one to slightly relax the grip during the swing, producing more snap in the final motion of the axe just before impact. This creates more head speed and deeper penetration. In an earlier thread I compared this relaxed grip to 'iron & silk' in martial arts. Master Pan teaches that the punching arm, wrist and hand should remain loose and as flexible as a silk scarf during the swing, but clench hard as iron just before impact.
Click to expand...

In addition to what Square_Peg says, a curved handle allows you twist the handle at the moment of impact which tends to toss the chip out of the way before the next strike. I think straight handles are more accurate, but getting the chip out of the way can be a huge advantage, and time saver.
 
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