Strop and Sharpmaker question

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Feb 8, 2006
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Sorry for the long post. I have a few questions regarding sharpening. I have a variety of knives with a variety of edges. My primary sharpening tool is a Spyderco sharpmaker. Owning a few knives with a convex edge I want to buy a strop.

Here are the questions:
1- Is a strop used only for convex edges only or do you use them on all edges:
2- Once an edge is sharpened on the Spyderco sharpmaker will the strop improve and sharpen the edge more? Or if you plan on using a strop should you not use the Sharpmaker at all?
3- If you do use the Sharpmaker than the strop could you recommend what grit to use on a strop after using the sharpmaker? I called Keith at Handamerican to buy a strop and he told me that I need to know what grit compound I need. Without knowing the grit of the white ceramic sticks of the sharpmaker I did not know what grit I would need for the next step for stropping.

Thanks in advance for any info,
Stuart
 
Hi Stuart. I'm no sharpening expert, but I think I can help a little bit:

1- Is a strop used only for convex edges only or do you use them on all edges:

A strop is not reserved only for use on convex edges. A strop polishes an edge, and can work just as well on other edge profiles. I have stropped knives with a "V" profile just fine.

2- Once an edge is sharpened on the Spyderco sharpmaker will the strop improve and sharpen the edge more? Or if you plan on using a strop should you not use the Sharpmaker at all?

Stropping is optional, at your discretion. The general thinking seems to be that a strop will polish your edge by diminishing fine inconsistencies (e.g. scratches) left by the previous grinding material's abrasive. After you use your Sharpmaker you might find gains by stropping your edge, if you are looking for the performance of a polished edge.

I think I have read around BF that in general terms a polished edge makes a better slicer, whereas a rougher edge (say, finished at 600 grit) is "toothier" and can be a more utilitarian finish for drawing cuts (i.e. pulling or pushing the edge over the surface to be cut).

If you want to strop you first need to sharpen the knife if it is dulled. You can do that on a Sharpmaker if you choose. With modern steels I think it is common to hone a knife when it's dull, then strop it to desired sharpness (i.e. level of polish), then regularly strop it after use. One may only need to re-hone once it is no longer possible to return the edge to the desired state of sharpness merely by stropping, for whatever reasons associated with normal use.

3- If you do use the Sharpmaker than the strop could you recommend what grit to use on a strop after using the sharpmaker? I called Keith at Handamerican to buy a strop and he told me that I need to know what grit compound I need. Without knowing the grit of the white ceramic sticks of the sharpmaker I did not know what grit I would need for the next step for stropping.

I admit I do not know what grit the white sticks on the Sharpmaker are. On my strop I use the green Veritas compound sold by Lee Valley. It is billed as a .5 micron compound. Using that I have achieved satisfactory-to-me results.
 
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