Some of these sorts of things work out better than others. This is one that works really well.
If you make a tilting table for your grinder, make it good and stiff. I build the hinge with heavy "DOM" tubing (about 3/8-1/2-inch wall dimensionally-correct seamless tubing) cut into three sections. (I cut one section longer. The two shorter pieces should, combined, be the length of the one longer piece.)
Find a piece of CR (linear shaft is better if you have it) that fits nicely into the tube (1/2-inch dia. or better). Put the three segments onto the shaft (the longer one in the middle and the two shorter pieces on the ends.) Weld the two shorter end pieces of tube to the shaft.
Use an appropriately-sized piece of HR (1/4 or 3/8 thick) for the motor-mount. Drill all holes first. Position the hinge assembly on the edge of this plate and weld the longer CENTER-tube section to the plate.
I then use 1/4-inch flatbar with width that equals the diameter of the tube in the hinge and weld it along the sides. I use a piece of solid, square material HR or CR, of the same height and weld it under the motor mounting plate opposite the hinge.
The whole thing should sit flat on a table. Then weld the two outer section of tube in your hinge to a table top made of 1/4-inch or so plate. It is my experience that you don't have to shim the hinge for clearance against the mounting plate or the table. It moves stiff at first, but loosens up after a few tilts and the fit is tight and slopless.
The 'stop' which prevents the table from rotating past 90-degrees is simply a piece of steel welded to the table that collides with the edge of the the motor-mounting plate (on the other side of the hinge in the picture.) Sounds confusing, but it's self-evident how to do it when you get there. I usually use a piece slightly oversized and grind the spot until the table comes in at 90-degrees when tilted.
On the one in the picture, I cut a hole in the table so the larger motor could clear when tilted. That's not always necessary.
Good luck.