The Quest for sharpening perfection

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Jun 13, 2007
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So it is approaching 17 years of the never ending learning curve of sharpening and I am starting to wonder what direction I should go. I have always sharpened free hand producing edges with almost perfect angles, but almost perfect seems no longer good enough. In the past I have tried various types of aided sharpeners but I could always get my knife sharper free hand then the other day I decided to check out the edge pro and... WOW that's the sharpener I have dreamed of. I spent hours doing research but I still have doubts mainly from past experinces, So my question to those who have free hand sharpened and switched... is it worth it, does it work faster/better because you hit the same angle every time, does it properly follow that angle on all types of blades and how much sharper have you knives become?
 
I JUST bought and edge pro and here is my take:

This thing is the last sharpener I will ever buy, period. Ive done it by hand, with belts, lanskys, sharpmakers, etc etc. Ive made absurdly sharp knives with all those methods. That being said, this thing is the nuts. Not only is it producing sharper blades than i've ever been able to replicate (read: whittling hairs into little trees), but the bevels are GORGEOUS. If you take it through the polishing tapes, the bevels are literally mirror polished. Not close to mirror polished, i mean spotless-see-your-face-in-them spotless. On top of that, they are geometrically symmetrical and even in every way. I was shocked how amazing the bevels looked in comparison to other methods. I think this might be a bigger point for a maker selling knives than someone who just wants their knife sharp, though....I always thought my edge bevels looked good until I got this.

The system seems like it will work on almost every type of blade. I would say TIGHT recurves would need the thinner stones to not dish out the bevel, but thats a problem that i've yet to see a sharpener fix without it using round rods, which has its own disadvantages. The Edgepro site even has tips on handling those situations and makes special stones specifically for them.

I also would avoid using it on integrals or sweeping plunges. The geometry where the plunge line is causes dishing in the cutting bevel due to the stones being flat, but again, thats a problem with every method other than belt sanding with a flexible belt. You could probably modify a stone to handle it, though.

I got the kit with 120, 220, 320, 800, polishing tapes and ceramic rod and i doubt i'll need anything else other than re-ordering 120 grit stones, but thats because i am setting new bevels, not just sharpening existing bevels.

Will it do it faster? It depends....i'd say yes because i've yet to see a human able to hold an 18 degree bevel hundreds of times in a row enough to produce a perfectly even mirror finished bevel. You can whip on bevels that will shave hair in a few minutes, but itll take a little while to go through every stone and tape. For a truely top notch edge, i'd prefer quality over time investment every time.

Thats my $.02....

For a point of reference, here is how sharp i could get knives before the EdgePro...this is a crazy difficulty cut. Single piece of paper rolled, freestanding, severed without knocking it over. Even though I could produce those sharpness blades before, I still think this thing takes everything to the next level:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EK6KIVK6UWk
 
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No doubt, the EdgePro is an awesome sharpening system, but it does have drawbacks.

For one, it's a hassle to set up and messy with all the water. Second, it is not good with recurves. Third, it is horrible with thick saber grinds. My Trident with a thick saber grind was just about impossible to sharpen because moving the knife up the sharpening platform changed the sharpening angle. You can set the sharpening angle, but that set angle will not be accurate with every type of blade.

In the end, I found the Sharpmaker was easier to use and more effective on a wider range of knives. But when you have the right knife and you are in the EdgePro's sweetspot, there is nothing better.
 
Twin,
On those saber grinds, are you putting the knife on the flats when you rest it on the table, or the main bevels? Once you set the platform, you shouldn't have to move it up at all just angle the knife so the stone hits it perpindicular. Since saber grinds are flat ground, putting the main bevel on the table should keep the angle consistent.
 
Hey David:

Actually, the Trident is hollow ground, with a pretty good taper to the point. I could not find an easy and accurate way to hold a constant angle as I moved the knife up the sharpening platform. The taper of the blade was the real problem because it changed the angle. On a flat grind, this would not be a problem, but with a hollow grind, a taper or a saber grind of diminishing width, the EdgePro is a challenge.
 
Thanks david, I seen one of your posts on the edge pro and thats accually what got me looking. I also like to have very high polished mirror edges that tree top hairs but after working through 3 diamond stones, all 3 spyderco ceramics, and 3 different diamond pastes then realizing I missed the angle on one side by 1deg.:eek: makes me want to pull the rest of my hair out. I have been using a 1x30 HF mainly for starting a bevel but sharpening this way also has its drawbacks like DONT MESS UP so I try to only use it when needed. I was looking at the apex model mainly because of the price but after reading all the info I could find on the two I see no difference between them besides the size or is that it?
 
I got the apex model...I dont sharpen scissors and just didn't see enough to warrant almost double the price.

Twin,
I can see your point on the fully distal tapered knives. That being said, how does a sharpmaker or any other sharpener fix that problem? If you attach the lansky type device, you angle is going to change for the same reason with the same results. Im still not sure what you mean about moving the blade up the device. Youre talking about a SOG trident, right? If so, you shouldnt need to move the blade anywhere at all other than possible angling the tip forward a bit so that the stone doesnt hit the table. I would think the only "moving" of a blade on the table would be for 8+" blades.
 
I have had my Apex for about 6 weeks now. Ordered the model with 4 stones and polishing tape. Had been using DMT duosharps. The apex gives you a great working edge in a very short time. Only have kitchen knives to use it on. There is a little clean up time involved. The upside is your knives are sharp really fast. I was not that good at freehand, so the Apex is great for me. I had some older German knives that I just stopped using. Now they are all very sharp. To be honest I did not know what sharp was till I used the Apex. There is a small learning curve. If you can freehand the Edgepro will be no problem. I also ordered the glass blanks. I use 3m film on them to polish the blade. Very happy with the purchase.
 
Hey David:

I have the Oberland Trident from Crusader Forge, a super-tough S30V with about a 5 inch fixed blade. The EdgePro is designed to cut in a fairly narrow range, maybe a couple of inches or so to keep the stone perpendicular to the edge. If you don't move the blade to keep the stone perpendicular, and instead extend the stone further down the edge, the EdgePro stone meets the edge at a longer and longer distance, changing (lowering) the cutting angle.

The Sharpmaker is easy because you just have to hold the blade vertical and that position keeps a constant angle for the entire edge. The EdgePro is better than the Sharpmaker in many respects, but I find the Sharpmaker easier to use and more versatile.
 
In the end, I found the Sharpmaker was easier to use and more effective on a wider range of knives. But when you have the right knife and you are in the EdgePro's sweetspot, there is nothing better.


The Sharpmaker is great for touch-ups, but seriously reprofiling a 7 inch campknife is .. challenging at least.

I feel the same way David does about my Edge Pro. I love it. But for reprofiling small thin edged folders I grab the Lansky. For touching up only I use the ceramic rod that came with my Edge Pro (you could say that's a free hand Sharpmaker then). In the Field I use some sandingpaper or a DMT folding sharpener.

Fact is that with the Edge Pro you can do it all, Reprofiling, sharpening and touching up. You can't (reasonably) do that with the Sharpmaker. Sharpmaker is great in touching-up..

my 2 cts

martin
 
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