Toohr #3 knife sharpener

[KulaLani]

Not sure what the coil spring goes to. Possibly on the sharpening arm between the bearing and guide rod stops? I can't find a spring like that in any of my pictures.

The bearing goes into the hole in the base and the washer goes over it. Make sure that they are lined up properly with the grooves so the bearing rides correctly.
Incorrect

Correct

The 2 screws go into the bottom of that base plate, into the smooth rods to hold it all into place.

Thank you for that info. Very useful.

 

[Cutlery Butcher]

What I don't see is how the oil gets from the green plastic piece into the bearing parts of the slider, but it somehow seems to. It appears to me that the oiler threads into a blind hole with no escape.

TIL: it's not a blind hole.

After an IPA bath, I was cleaning with shaved cotton swabs, and when I stuck one into the ball channels on a green end-piece it popped apart. I had no idea it was really two pieces that snap together. And, inside I saw the oil channels. They go from the center hole (what the ball oiler threads into) over to, and around, the mounting holes, and then down into the ball bearing channels.

green end-piece oil channels

I've decided to use either a silicon/PTFE oil, or Gunny Glide. I'll plug the center lube holes in each slider end-piece with M3 set/grub screws. I won't use the ball oiler, at all. I've done a fit up, and this 'oil can' should work great to inject lubrication while sealing the hole edges against backflow.

oil can

 

[Bdtry]

TIL: it's not a blind hole.

After an IPA bath, I was cleaning with shaved cotton swabs, and when I stuck one into the ball channels on a green end-piece it popped apart. I had no idea it was really two pieces that snap together. And, inside I saw the oil channels. They go from the center hole (what the ball oiler threads into) over to, and around, the mounting holes, and then down into the ball bearing channels.

green end-piece oil channels

I've decided to use either a silicon/PTFE oil, or Gunny Glide. I'll plug the center lube holes in each slider end-piece with M3 set/grub screws. I won't use the ball oiler, at all. I've done a fit up, and this 'oil can' should work great to inject lubrication while sealing the hole edges against backflow.

oil can

Awesome. That plastic piece is also a slightly different design from the earlier ones. Any oil would be fine, and you don't need much as it will just end up collecting dust or dripping out. When I reassembled mine I just added a couple small drops from a needle oiler as I moved the balls around in the tracks.

 

[garson]

Hello everyone. I received the Toohr #3 / KETIPED Pro for Christmas and had to send it back. Instructions were crappy or non existent at best. No worries there as I'm mechanically inclined. The assembly was going great up until the point of inserting the "slider rod" into the gimble mount. I took my time and noticed that the sleeve was reluctant to receive the rod. With just a bit of force I sent it and low and behold, some of the bearings fell out all over my desk. IMNSHO, the rod should be tapered on one end to prevent this BS from happening. Am I missing something in proper assembly ? Not happy but will try again when it arrives on Monday. Any other tips/ hacks/ mods for this device would be appreciated.

Kind regards,
garson

​

 

[777 Edge]

With just a bit of force I sent it and low and behold, some of the bearings fell out all over my desk. IMNSHO, the rod should be tapered on one end to prevent this BS from happening. Am I missing something in proper assembly ?

Nope, that's the way they are made. It's a very slow going careful process to install the bearing assembly but once it's done, the ball bearings will stay put.

 

[garson]

Nope, that's the way they are made. It's a very slow going careful process to install the bearing assembly but once it's done, the ball bearings will stay put.

Thanks 777 Edge. So should I lube the rod before sending through the bearing tunnel? How can I possibly know that that they wont pop out again? Has anyone chamfered the cut edge of the rod before sending it through?

 

[777 Edge]

Thanks 777 Edge. So should I lube the rod before sending through the bearing tunnel? How can I possibly know that that they wont pop out again? Has anyone chamfered the cut edge of the rod before sending it through?

Chamfering the rod is probably a good idea. I wonder if your linear bearing had some issues - could be. When I assembled mine, I didn't chamfer it but managed to carefully and slowly insert it through the bearing without popping them out.

The linear bearings used are pretty cheaply made, so some lubricant won't be a bad idea.

 

[garson]

Well, a few people asked and I thought a few people might be interested in first thoughts and what not so @scottc3 @Crag the Brewer @cudgee 777 Edge @Lovetolearnabouteverythin

First off, when you reassemble the unit and put the top cap on the upright unit make sure the brass thumb screw is on the OUTSIDE For some odd reason the gimbal doesn't like to spin with something in the way

And then I used one of the included stones to put a bevel on the abrasive rod to make putting it in the bearing and the stop collar on a tiny bit easier. You never know if the sharp corner might catch a bearing ball and damage something. Probably not necessary buuuut better safe than sorry.

I know the included stones are bad, but I was surprised at just how soft they are. They were always intended for utility use instead of sharpening anyways. Putting the bevel on the rod left a large channel in the stone.

my smaller knives.

and there we have it! I only wish I had found this thread BEFORE I tried assembling my unit as the sharp edge of the cut rod pushed out about six of the tiny bearing balls. So the replacement unit will be here tomorrow and I will disassemble and clean the unit. Thanks to all here for the info and improvements. I think we're the ONLY place on the internet with this knowledge.

 

[Cutlery Butcher]

Hello everyone. I received the Toohr #3 / KETIPED Pro for Christmas and had to send it back. Instructions were crappy or non existent at best. No worries there as I'm mechanically inclined. The assembly was going great up until the point of inserting the "slider rod" into the gimble mount. I took my time and noticed that the sleeve was reluctant to receive the rod. With just a bit of force I sent it and low and behold, some of the bearings fell out all over my desk. IMNSHO, the rod should be tapered on one end to prevent this BS from happening. Am I missing something in proper assembly ? Not happy but will try again when it arrives on Monday. Any other tips/ hacks/ mods for this device would be appreciated.

Kind regards,
garson

​

I did this, just as B Bdtry suggested here: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/toohr-3-knife-sharpener.1886171/post-21559470

A great task for the otherwise useless stones.

Edit: My bad, posting duplicate info. Browser refresh lied to me.

 

[ArieArie]

My first post here.

I bought this sharpener a month ago and I'm getting the hang of it.
I had a lot of questions about this device, but as I was reading this thread I got most of the questions answered.

I encountered one problem which I didn't see any reference to in this forum.
The problem has to do with the clamps. While I was adjusting the angle of the stone, I put the angle finder against the blade of the knife and took note, then I flipped the knife over and checked the angle and it was different. Which means that the knife is not held centered in the clamps, and the cutting edge that is being formed is not at the center of the blade.
The difference between the sides was between 2 and 3 degrees. The problem is more pronounced on the thicker side of the blade (closer to the handle).
I'm not sure if this is an issue with my device only, or if it is a problem with this system. Can someone with the original clamps do a test on their sharpener?

I understand that I could buy clamps from another manufacturer that would work with this sharpener. Could anyone recommend a "good enough" set of clamps that would work on this sharpener?

One other thing I have found that this machine can do, but I have not seen it documented anywhere. There is on bolt that comes with the sharpener (see attached photo) that can be used to lock the pivoting head from moving side to side, but can still move up and down. I am not sure what would be the application, maybe when using the slide to move the stone left and right, so the stone is always perpendicular to the blade.

Aside from the clamps issue, it is a very nice device, it is built very well, and an amazing value. I am still practicing on my less expensive kitchen knives and once I got the hang of it, it produces beautiful and very sharp blades.

https://imgur.com/a/duzNFe0

 

[playu72]

Hello. Im in the market for a sharpener system. Finally I cant decide between this toohr and the new xarilk gen3 .... What do you think about xarik gen 3?

 

[garson]

Happy New Year Everyone!

So the replacement kit arrived the other day. Much cleaner than the first one. Took it apart, cleaned and lubed and reassembled last evening. The guide rod had one end that was not squarely cut so I filed it square, beveled the edge and sanded it smooth. A few questions if I may.

1. Are the two clamps supposed to be able slide back and forth on the head rail? Mine do not and only can be seated by rocking them in. No left or right movement.
2. The measured "rail" sits perfectly flat by itself. When I attach the clamp brace using the four screws the whole assembly rocks about an 1/8" left to right. Should I try to file the brace surface?
3. I've seen videos where the turret is mounted to the right and in other videos it's to the left. Does it matter?
4. I purchased 6" diamond stones in 240, 600, and 1000. Are they good to start with on kitchen knives?
5. On the Artema videos it looks like he uses each stone about 12 times per side. Is that a good rule of thumb?
6. Is 15 degrees a good bevel for kitchen knives?
7. EDIT Just tried inserting the rod for the first time and have met the bearings and there is a fair amount of resistance. Is that normal? I'm afraid to push to hard in fear of dislodging the bearings again like my first go round. More beveling?

UPDATE :FAILURE AGAIN! Added more bevel, sanded and polished the rod. Went for a push and dislodged four of the tiny bearings. I'm done for today. Have to see if I can get a new bearing and would ask one of you guys to mic your rod so I can compare.

garson

 

[Cutlery Butcher]

1. Are the two clamps supposed to be able slide back and forth on the head rail? Mine do not and only can be seated by rocking them in. No left or right movement.

They will need to be moved back and forth, yes. I used a jewelers file (diamond) and filed down, one stoke at a time, one side then the opposite, until they fit tight, but also slide.

2. The measured "rail" sits perfectly flat by itself. When I attach the clamp brace using the four screws the whole assembly rocks about an 1/8" left to right. Should I try to file the brace surface?

Mine did too, and then I discovered that the cutting board I had it sitting on was warped. Turned the board over, stuck some rubber feet on the convex side of the board, and problem solved. I'd think about shimming the feet at the ends of the rail, or perhaps shaving/removing the rubber on the bottom of the 'clamp brace', before I'd file/sand the surface.

3. I've seen videos where the turret is mounted to the right and in other videos it's to the left. Does it matter?

Either works. Me, being right handed, I find it easier to park the rod with the turret rods to the left.

4. I purchased 6" diamond stones in 240, 600, and 1000. Are they good to start with on kitchen knives?

IMHO, yes, a good start. (Also see my answer to question 6., below.)

5. On the Artema videos it looks like he uses each stone about 12 times per side. Is that a good rule of thumb?

How ever many strokes it takes to get a burr the entire length of the blade bevel.

6. Is 15 degrees a good bevel for kitchen knives?

Most of mine are. I had to re-bevel a few. And, if you do then 240 grit will take some time to do that re-bevel. Use a sharpie, your 1000 grit, to try to match the factory bevel angle if 240 is the roughest grit you have.

7. EDIT Just tried inserting the rod for the first time and have met the bearings and there is a fair amount of resistance. Is that normal? I'm afraid to push to hard in fear of dislodging the bearings again like my first go round. More beveling?

UPDATE :FAILURE AGAIN! Added more bevel, sanded and polished the rod. Went for a push and dislodged four of the tiny bearings. I'm done for today. Have to see if I can get a new bearing and would ask one of you guys to mic your rod so I can compare.

Sorry to hear that. Mine mics between 8.03 and 8.01mm. I have not had any issues, yet, dislodging bearings. I did bevel before the first attempt to insert the rod, and it slides in smoothly without noticeable play

 

[garson]

Thanks for the thoughtful replies CB! Happy New Year to you and yours in 2025!

I'll respond to the mystery of the failed bearings in a separate reply.

 

[garson]

BEARING MYSTERY SOLVED Ok boys and girls... I finally figured out what the issue is and you may not believe it! It was/is the freaking ROD and its wonky and inconsistent DIAMETER! After watching ArtTema videos for the umpteenth time as he simply slides the rod through the bearing pocket I knew something was amiss. Broke out my micrometer, (cheap harbor Freight deal) and mic'd the freshley beveled and polished end and it was BIGGER than the other , straight cut and no beveled end of rod edge. Are you freaking kidding? Nope, sure as shit the other end flies through the bearing pocket. Of course this was after I started looking for replacement bearings, which I found are a dime a dozen out there in the world. Hoping that no one else has to go through this. As a reminder, I sent my first sharpener back because of this issue. It would be nice if they had true rods or at least marked the ends for application.

See attached photo for reference.

Since the photo is too small, here are the stats.

Existing Bearing Number: LM8UU
Apparent suitable replacement:

LM8UU Linear Ball Bearings, 8mm Bore Dia, 15mm OD, 24mm Length​

ROD Measurements:

1. Raw, straight cut end: 7.83mm
2. Opposite edge after beveling and polishing: 7.97mm

 

[Cutlery Butcher]

ROD Measurements:

1. Raw, straight cut end: 7.83mm
2. Opposite edge after beveling and polishing: 7.97mm

Interesting. A 0.2mm (or greater?) tolerance in rod diameter (between your measurements and mine) surprises me. So much so, I measured again. I too have an inexpensive micrometer, but from Amazon. Note, as I used loctite on the grub screw, I did not take the stone holder off to measure that end of the rod.

measure 1
measure 2
(Perhaps I did not have my micrometer zeroed yesterday?) Still, a 0.15mm difference, between your mic and mine, surprises me.

Most of mine are [15 degrees]. I had to re-bevel a few.

Correction: I've an older (2015) Wicked Edge that I used to sharpen all my kitchen knives. While I have a digital angle finder now, I did not use it with my WE, so all sharpening angles are as indicated by the WE, and its stops are only in whole degree increments. I last used my WE in September to sharpen all our pairing knives, and I did put 15 degree on all of them. So, that it what I remembered. However, checking my sharpening logs this morning I see that our Gunter Wilhelms were sharpened at 18, our Emerils at 17, and our cheapo Cuisinarts at 19. I don't remember why I chose those angles; probably because they were as close to the factory bevel as I could get with my WE.

 

[garson]

New 8mm x 400mm rod coming from McMaster Carr tomorrow and I'll mic that right off. New bearings coming on Sunday from the A. We have the cheapo Cuisinarts that are the painted ones, they see a lot of use as the wife uses them all the time and they go in the dishwasher. We also have a set of Henckels Professional "S" that see use as well. I'm going to search for the correct angle for those. I'm still kicking myself for never thinking to flip the rod and try the other end in the bearing pocket. I was able to get one of the escaped bearing balls back inside the grove last night. I gave up on the other three for now at least. Thanks again for the insight.

Hmm... I wonder if that 8.01 end would fit in the bearing pocket? Maybe don't try it!

 

[Cutlery Butcher]

New 8mm x 400mm rod coming from McMaster Carr tomorrow and I'll mic that right off. New bearings coming on Sunday from the A. We have the cheapo Cuisinarts that are the painted ones, they see a lot of use as the wife uses them all the time and they go in the dishwasher. We also have a set of Henckels Professional "S" that see use as well. I'm going to search for the correct angle for those. I'm still kicking myself for never thinking to flip the rod and try the other end in the bearing pocket. I was able to get one of the escaped bearing balls back inside the grove last night. I gave up on the other three for now at least. Thanks again for the insight.

LOL! Yep, same here, painted Cuisinarts and the wife uses those almost exclusively. I, on the other hand, reach for the Gunter Wilhelms, so they don't get used that much. I strop the Cuisinarts at least once a month, and she hardly never complains about dull. When she does, that's when they'll get sharpened again.

Hmm... I wonder if that 8.01 end would fit in the bearing pocket? Maybe don't try it!

Nope. I don't plan on taking the stone holder off. But 8.01mm does get me thinking that perhaps you got an out-of-spec, too tight, LM8UU?

Oh, and regarding the unit rocking back and forth, did you check that one, or more, of the four attachment screws perhaps extended past the bottom, pushing a lump into the rubber cushion? I seem to recall someone on this thread experiencing such. You should have received eight screws of the same diameter, but four shorter than the other four. If you continue to have the rocking issue, maybe check that? I'm pretty sure you want the four shorter in that location, with the four longer attaching the tower to the slider.

 

[garson]

LOL! Yep, same here, painted Cuisinarts and the wife uses those almost exclusively. I, on the other hand, reach for the Gunter Wilhelms, so they don't get used that much. I strop the Cuisinarts at least once a month, and she hardly never complains about dull. When she does, that's when they'll get sharpened again.


Nope. I don't plan on taking the stone holder off. But 8.01mm does get me thinking that perhaps you got an out-of-spec, too tight, LM8UU?

Oh, and regarding the unit rocking back and forth, did you check that one, or more, of the four attachment screws perhaps extended past the bottom, pushing a lump into the rubber cushion? I seem to recall someone on this thread experiencing such. You should have received eight screws of the same diameter, but four shorter than the other four. If you continue to have the rocking issue, maybe check that? I'm pretty sure you want the four shorter in that location, with the four longer attaching the tower to the slider.

Ok. Just pulled all mounting screws and flipped the turret to the left. All screws were the correct length. Guess I'll shim it some way to eliminate the rocking. I've got four new bearings coming so that will be an interesting comparo.

Also,

1. Are the two clamps supposed to be able slide back and forth on the head rail? Mine do not and only can be seated by rocking them in. No left or right movement.

They will need to be moved back and forth, yes. I used a jewelers file (diamond) and filed down, one stoke at a time, one side then the opposite, until they fit tight, but also slide Will do tomorrow and report back.

 

[Cutlery Butcher]

Guess I'll shim it some way to eliminate the rocking.

Just a thought: Use some masking tape and build it up on the bottoms of the rail feet, layer upon layer, until you reach the desired thickness to stop the rock. Then get a roll of neoprene/rubber or weather-strip tape as close as you can to the same thickness, but perhaps a hair thinker to account for compression. I see some as thin as 1/32" on big A.

Of course, make double sure the bench/counter top that you are normally working on is flat, and not the cause of the rock. My thick cutting board, that I place my Ketiped on so I have clearance to flip the clamp bar, is warped (so I turned it over), and my work top is flat but it is also out of level, enough for my digital angle finder to notice.