Toohr #3 knife sharpener

[Lovetolearnabouteverythin]

Since you didn't post a picture I am guessing that would be a set screw or a grub screw, whichever you prefer to call it. Not sure on the pitch, but it is a 4mm hex key if memory serves

Wow, that’s the exact piece I missing. I can’t even use my sharpener because the rod keeps falling out… I even notice the magnet doesn’t work on the top for angle digital gauge

 

[Bdtry]

Wow, that’s the exact piece I missing. I can’t even use my sharpener because the rod keeps falling out… I even notice the magnet doesn’t work on the top for angle digital gauge

Take the handle piece to a hardware store and see if they can help you find a screw that will fit. It is known that the part for the angle gauge is not magnetic, you have to replace the metal strip or just hold the angle cube in place.

 

[cudgee]

you have to replace the metal strip or just hold the angle cube in place.

Just glue a flat magnet to it.

 

[Lovetolearnabouteverythin]

Just glue a flat magnet to it.

Ok, thanks!

 

[Lovetolearnabouteverythin]

Take the handle piece to a hardware store and see if they can help you find a screw that will fit. It is known that the part for the angle gauge is not magnetic, you have to replace the metal strip or just hold the angle cube in place.

Thanks!

 

[Bdtry]

Alright, Hapstone clamps have arrived!

I must say, these clamps are very nice, I got the "Small lite Clamps for Hapstone R2 Lite" as a cheap starter unit. They were well packed and include 2 extra sets of screws and nuts in case some are damaged and a ball end allen key. If you go this way then you will need a 30mm M5 thumb screw which are not included with the clamps as the thumbscrews included with these clamps are too short and the ones that came with the Toohr are M6. 777 Edge was nice enough to ask Konstantin at Gritomatic to include 2 in my order. I am not sure if these ones are for sale on the site or not or if they will be offered in the future. They are really nice pieces. The head is the same diameter as the original Toohr thumb screws (20mm) but sticks out further so you can more easily turn them. The base that contacts the bar is a bit smaller so I used the washers that were included with the clamps. These clamps use a nut in a slot instead of having a threaded hole like most other clamps. This should increase the life of the clamp significantly.

Length comparison

Width

Opening sizes with the screw loose. 4.5mm with the Hapstone vs 3mm with the Toohr.

You can loosen the screw even more and force the Toohr clamps open a bit more to a hair over 4mm

Size comparison of the replacement thumb screws and the ones included with the clamps. In this case size really does matter

Comparison of the new and original Toohr thumb screws. MUCH easier to use the new ones.

While installing the clamps I noticed that my clamp bar had a bit of wiggle to it. The 2 smaller outside screws were a bit loose. Make sure you use an angle cube to ensure the bar is level and tighten the screws up. These screws may be a candidate for blue loctite if they come loose in the future.

And in the interest of full disclosure I found that the fit between the printed adapters and my clamp bar was not the best. This is likely due to the bar being a hair undersized and/or the adapter being slightly off as well (shrinkage/expansion of the plastic, variations in the filament diameter etc). One was a bit looser than the other and this allowed for some twist/wiggle in the fit of the clamps. I used some kapton style tape on the inside lips (and just wrapped it around) of the side of the adapter that fits over the bar and on the outside of the adapter where the clamp fits over. This virtually eliminated the issue. There is still a very tiny amount of wiggle, but it would be impossible to get rid of it without precision milling of the clamp bar and making a precision metal adapter. This may or may not be an issue for you as tolerances can change on different days and you could wind up with adapters that fit too tight.

Edit: Just had a chat with 777 Edge and he mentioned his clamp bar was 20.05-20.1mm wide while mine is 19.96-19.99mm so there seems to be some variance and that little amount could cause a loose or very tight fit. If yours is loose due to a smaller bar then a kapton or other hard wearing waterproof tape is a great option to use as a spacer.

 

[Bdtry]

Next up is removing the clamp bar. I noticed a bit more wiggle than I would like and tried to see if I could do anything about it.

First you remove the cap nut on the back of the thread behind the clamp bar, followed by the knurled wheel, spring and (surprise!) the 2 washers and needle thrust bearing. I did not pay much attention to this area before and did not notice that there was a needle bearing there, I just though it was a washer as it is all it theoretically really needs. Be careful that none of the rollers fall out. The spring has some print on it, appears to be "Ming Li TF 25-25"

Now you can pull the clamp bar out with the shoulder bolt. The fit between the bolt at the brass/bronze piece was a little loose with a fair bit of wiggle in the bolt. I feel this contributes to a bit of the front to back wiggle that is there.

Behind that is a bronze bushing and the bearing balls that locate and stop the clamp bar from turning. The bolt was very snug in this bushing, almost no wiggle at all. I think there may be a minute offset from my bearings and the holes in the back of the piece on the clamp bar which allows it to wiggle up and down ever so slightly even when the tension is cranked way up. Perhaps somebody can think of a viable upgrade to this. I also noticed that it rotates clockwise much easier, it might just be a bit of wear in causing ramps to form at this point though.

The bushing sticks out the back and acts as a guide for the spring and is what holds the washers and thrust bearing in place. I cleaned all these parts to remove a few bits of swarf and foam from the packaging and added a bit of Gunny Glide to the bushing and bearing during reassembly.

It still has a bit of wiggle, enough to throw it of by a small fraction of a degree. Not enough to worry about for most sharpening but it may be noticeable if you are putting a mirror polish on a wide bevel, but variations in stone thickness or dishing could be more of an issue.

 

[gipsy]

Next up is removing the clamp bar. I noticed a bit more wiggle than I would like and tried to see if I could do anything about it.

First you remove the cap nut on the back of the thread behind the clamp bar, followed by the knurled wheel, spring and (surprise!) the 2 washers and needle thrust bearing. I did not pay much attention to this area before and did not notice that there was a needle bearing there, I just though it was a washer as it is all it theoretically really needs. Be careful that none of the rollers fall out. The spring has some print on it, appears to be "Ming Li TF 25-25"


Now you can pull the clamp bar out with the shoulder bolt. The fit between the bolt at the brass/bronze piece was a little loose with a fair bit of wiggle in the bolt. I feel this contributes to a bit of the front to back wiggle that is there.



Behind that is a bronze bushing and the bearing balls that locate and stop the clamp bar from turning. The bolt was very snug in this bushing, almost no wiggle at all. I think there may be a minute offset from my bearings and the holes in the back of the piece on the clamp bar which allows it to wiggle up and down ever so slightly even when the tension is cranked way up. Perhaps somebody can think of a viable upgrade to this. I also noticed that it rotates clockwise much easier, it might just be a bit of wear in causing ramps to form at this point though.


The bushing sticks out the back and acts as a guide for the spring and is what holds the washers and thrust bearing in place. I cleaned all these parts to remove a few bits of swarf and foam from the packaging and added a bit of Gunny Glide to the bushing and bearing during reassembly.


It still has a bit of wiggle, enough to throw it of by a small fraction of a degree. Not enough to worry about for most sharpening but it may be noticeable if you are putting a mirror polish on a wide bevel, but variations in stone thickness or dishing could be more of an issue.

Well, this is proper review and inspection! How much did you pay all together and how do you find value for money? Thanks

 

[777 Edge]

...Behind that is a bronze bushing ...

This is probably the only part I am a little concerned about with long term use. I can already see a bit of wear on my brass bushing, and it seems that yours is also showing slight signs of wear.

I'm expecting the steel balls to eventually wear out grooves in the brass and for it to pick up slop in the nice solid stops it has right now when you rotate the bar.

If this part was hardened steel as opposed to brass, then it would have been great.

Edit -typo

 

[gipsy]

This is probably the only part I am a little concerned about with long term use. I can already see a bit of wear on my bronze bushing, and it seems that yours is also showing slight signs of wear.

I'm expecting the steel balls to eventually wear out grooves in the bronze and for it to pick up slop in the nice solid stops it has right now when you rotate the bar.

If this part was hardened steel as opposed to bronze, then it would have been great.

How is that part made on other rotating systems? Any better?

 

[777 Edge]

How is that part made on other rotating systems? Any better?

Yes, in many other systems typically the part where the bearings slot into a bushing (similar to this one) it is manufactured from hardened steel. Every system's rotating mechanism is slightly different but most works on the same general principle.

The brass will probably hold up well enough in the TooHR system for general use, but for hard and very regular use the brass will most likely wear out from the friction of the hardened "bearings".

To extend the life of the brass bushing as much as possible, I would recommend that the rear spring tension is kept to the minimum necessary.

That being said, this is an epic system for the money and I'm glad I have one.

 

[Diemaker]

That "receiver" for the steel balls to locate to looks like brass to me, not bronze, which is much softer and easier to machine. As has been said, it is the wrong material for the job. Personally, I would use a nice lithium based grease for the thrust bearing and bronze bushing as well as the locating balls.

I only see one washer with the thrust bearing, there should be two?

 

[Bdtry]

Well, this is proper review and inspection! How much did you pay all together and how do you find value for money? Thanks

With the new user discount I paid $98 Canadian for the sharpener and another $98 for shipping. With a few small reservations it is an amazing value for the money.

This is probably the only part I am a little concerned about with long term use. I can already see a bit of wear on my bronze bushing, and it seems that yours is also showing slight signs of wear.

I'm expecting the steel balls to eventually wear out grooves in the bronze and for it to pick up slop in the nice solid stops it has right now when you rotate the bar.

If this part was hardened steel as opposed to bronze, then it would have been great.

Yeah, you can already see the groove and I have mostly kept it on light tension. Next step would be to find somebody with a mill and see if they can make a part out of steel, maybe with a bronze bushing for a tighter fit on the bolt. If it is possible then it might be worth having a small run of them done of the price is decent. If that turns out to bee too expensive then perhaps a steel washer with 4 holes in it could be used as a sacrificial part. Install it, add some loctite or even super glue to the back between the brass part, tighten it up and let it set and it should hold fine until it wears out.

That "receiver" for the steel balls to locate to looks like brass to me, not bronze, which is much softer and easier to machine. As has been said, it is the wrong material for the job. Personally, I would use a nice lithium based grease for the thrust bearing and bronze bushing as well as the locating balls.

I only see one washer with the thrust bearing, there should be two?

Hmm, think I have a tube of lithium grease out in the shed somewhere. There are 2 washers on the thrust bearing, the 2nd is under it, I didn't want to set it on the mat and pick up some junk.

 

[AlongTheRazorsEdge]

I ordered the silver at $106, the red was $111

First time I used the 'Facebook' login. Price was $150

Logged out, logged back in with a registered name/password from previously, price was $150

Stayed logged in and cleared cookies, price was $106

I tried to order but the site wouldn't let me register. Not opening a facebook to order this. Of course there is no contact for human support, only automated that doesn't help with site issues.

 

[gipsy]

I tried to order but the site wouldn't let me register. Not opening a facebook to order this. Of course there is no contact for human support, only automated that doesn't help with site issues.

My price, on Ali, for silver one is 120$ but shipping to Croatia is 240$!!
I sent message to TooHR official store, they replied and lower the price to 207$ shipped, Still not sure what to do, for that kind of money I can have Hapston V8.... in. week time at my door, for 100$ more, they will include set of their cheap diamond stones, with TooHR, I still have to replace the stones...

 

[Bdtry]

I tried to order but the site wouldn't let me register. Not opening a facebook to order this. Of course there is no contact for human support, only automated that doesn't help with site issues.

That is odd, I was able to sign up using my email address. Is there an error or problem that pops up?

My price, on Ali, for silver one is 120$ but shipping to Croatia is 240$!!
I sent message to TooHR official store, they replied and lower the price to 207$ shipped, Still not sure what to do, for that kind of money I can have Hapston V8.... in. week time at my door, for 100$ more, they will include set of their cheap diamond stones, with TooHR, I still have to replace the stones...

The Toohr diamond stones are not worth $100, you can find them from other sellers for $5 a stone or so. If it is the same price as a Hapstone then you could go that route, for most of us the Toohr is cheaper and the sliding mechanism makes it worth it.

 

[cudgee]

you can find them from other sellers for $5 a stone or so.

There is another site that sells a magnetic stone holder that fits all these sharpeners, and the diamond plates, and i use that term loosely, that fit onto them are or were less than $2. And they work, for that price they only have to last 10 knives and replace them. Cheaper than sandpaper.

 

[cudgee]

, for that kind of money I can have Hapston V8.... in. week time at my door, for 100$ more, they will include set of their cheap diamond stones,

Don't even think about it, go the Hapstone. No frigging around with it, just pull it out of the box, set it up and go.

 

[gipsy]

That is odd, I was able to sign up using my email address. Is there an error or problem that pops up?


The Toohr diamond stones are not worth $100, you can find them from other sellers for $5 a stone or so. If it is the same price as a Hapstone then you could go that route, for most of us the Toohr is cheaper and the sliding mechanism makes it worth it.

May be my english.... , 100$ is Hapston diamond start set, electroplated, 5 pieces set, 200-1200 grit, 15x25mm

 

[cudgee]

May be my english..

Your English is fine, i knew what you meant.