Recommendation? Trying to fix a warp…

[Pirouz_EDC]

Hey everyone, I began making knives not too long ago and wanted to try my hand at a larger knife, unfortunately I got some warping and have tried using a carbide tipped hammer to no avail. Could really use some help getting this back to flat, or am I just out of luck and needing to restart?

I also tried reheating the steel and putting in between two aluminum blocks that I made into a quenching vise.

The warp is not the entire blade only at the spine, appears like the heat was making direct contact r with this spot of the knife.

 

[A.McPherson]

Pics, so we can see what you're working with.

 

[DevinT]

Tell us a little more about the blade and heat treat process. What steel? What size? Forge or furnace? Hardness? Tempering temperature? Type of grind?

Hoss

 

[Pirouz_EDC]

Blade heat treat proces: Put the shaped steel into the forge until it reached just over 1500 degrees, removed and placed into a quenching vise (I made one from a Simple Little Life video), put back into the forge to just over 1500 degrees, quenched in Parks 50, then placed into the Quench plates. Skated a file. Tempered two cycles at 450 degrees and each time let it cool to room temp. Tried the carbide tip hammer after this. You can see the dimples made by the carbide ripper hammer on the left side of the first photo where the color is darker.
What steel? 1095
What size? About 2.75” x 13” except for near the hand which drops from 2.75” to about 1.25”.
Forge or furnace? Propane Forge with entrances blocked off with fire bricks.
Hardness? I haven’t had it tested to know the exact hardness
Tempering temperature? 450 degrees
Type of grind? Chef’s Knife, currently the knife is flattish with a start to a flat grind. Left the material thicker since I was told it could help with warping.

 

[DevinT]

Just heat the spine with torch right at the bend and straighten. It usually doesn’t need a lot of heat.

Hoss

 

[Pirouz_EDC]

Just heat the spine with torch right at the bend and straighten. It usually doesn’t need a lot of heat.

Hoss

Would this be heating the spine and placing it in the quench plates to straighten, or is there a better way?

 

[Way-Barney]

Heat the side with the bend away from you and throw some water on the side you want it to move towards. That should shrink it back ever so slightly faster than the other side. it is very effective and takes a bit of practice but a useful skill. Might be a bit thin to be 100% effective but worth a shot.

 

[Pirouz_EDC]

Heat the side with the bend away from you and throw some water on the side you want it to move towards. That should shrink it back ever so slightly faster than the other side. it is very effective and takes a bit of practice but a useful skill. Might be a bit thin to be 100% effective but worth a shot.

“On the side you want it to move towards.”
Do you mean pour some water on the divot side?

 

[Way-Barney]

“On the side you want it to move towards.”
Do you mean pour some water on the divot side?

Imagine that your bend is a smile, you want to "gently" heat the bottom lip of the smile and splash water on it there, dont go blazing mad red hot its only thin and you may turn your smile into a frown and affect the HT near the edge. have a go on a blank or something so you get a feel for how mush heat to apply. Keep the heat source as focused as possible around the area of intended deformation, don't go wafting the whole blade. Have a practice until you can move it as much as you want.

 

[DevinT]

Hold most of the blade in the vise, pull handle to put tension on the area needing straightening, heat the area from the side that needs to shrink to become straight. Let cool, usually no need to use water.

Hoss