Tung oil,Danish oil or.......

I poured the oil in a tall tupperware container and put 6 knives with bocote,rosewood,and bubinga handles in it and let them soak for bout 15 minutes.I wiped the excess oil off and the,ve been sitting for about an hour and feel dry to the touch,i want to coat them with 4-6 coats all together but..The directions said to wait 24hours between coats.

All the woods look pretty good right now.Im sure after buffing they will be a LOT nicer.

Josh you may have told me but i don,t remember. Did you coat yours with a waiting period between each coat ?
 
If the wood dried that quickly then you can probably apply once or twice more then let it sit overnight. I usually do 4 coats initially 15 to 30 min apart and then 3 or 4 more a day or two later.
 
Nathan - the Danish oil works well on blasted G10 that has a lot of surface area and gets rather dull. I haven't tried it on hand wet sanded G10 which doesn't come out quite as dull.

I also think that if the oil dried that fast that it could stand some more.
 
I just put them back in the oil per you folk,s advise and because i,m impatient.
I,ll let them soak again and see what i have.
 
Bryce,
I only waited until it felt dry and no longer tacky at all between coats. Approximatly 30 minutes. This is probably not the correct method but it's what I did.
 
I got some #0000 that said super fine steelwool on the pkg. when i bought the Tung oil.

I really like what the Tung oil has done on my handles. I haven,t used the steel wool on it yet and it already looks GREAT ! Wayyyy ez,r than the CA finishes i,ve done too !

I,ll post Pics in day or 3 after i do the final buff and figure out how to take some good pics.I need to rig up some sorta light box and learn how to use my new digicam.
 
One thing I neglected to mention, the more sludge created by the steelwool/sandpaper the better. That fills the pores and gives a really smooth surface. If you work at it, the finish will resemble a clear painted surface, reminsicent of the hand-rubbed gunstocks.
 

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Speaking of gun stocks....
I'd throw out there Birchwood Caseys Tru -Oil. I like it a lot, and lots of guys swear by it. It would be my first choice in oil, then tung / danish.

Larry
 
Larry, I suspect most refinishing oils are a blend of all the above. Some more some less.
 
Im sure...I know danish is a mixture. The tru oil has a formula that seems to give a really hard finish after it dries. Theres a ton out there like you say, and I know there are production blade companies out there that do 50/50 shellac BLO finishes on walnut etc. I think a lot depends on the pores too, if they need to be sealed etc.

Larry
 
John Richards had a really great product but sadly he has passed on and took his formula with him. Great stuff!I still have a half bottle and use it sparingly. It worked similar to Watko's and Tru-oil but seemed to get a bit harder.
 
FOG2 said:
I got some #0000 that said super fine steelwool on the pkg. when i bought the Tung oil.

You can find "super fine" & "#0000" on steel wool that works, but just is not the same quality as the link above. I have both, and use the less expensive "super fine" for every day chores.
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