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Rog & Wal,
:barf:
jim
:barf:
jim
UBDOTD -- KNN Malla with tiny crack in handle. Pix & Deal
- Thread starter Bill Martino
- Start date
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- Apr 6, 2001
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- 2,632
Hey,
I am fixing 2 of the, I forget how many, Daisen tang failures. I can tell everyone out there that even that they "failed", they are not down for the count.
Once I get them back up and running with new wood handels and oil rub down, modern epoxy instead of laha, and a good coat of rust prohibitive coating to the blade. They will be able to sit a 1000 years on a shelf, or a 100 years in the field with no problems (maybe 200 in the field and 2000 on the shelf with a Super Glue finish...I dont know
).
Hey... I almost forgot... Coalblack, if you want could get into Khukuri Handel repair and fix it yourself. I have done this and 'woodchuckery' has become a way of life.
At first it is slow, but much like a gigantic earth trembleing avalanche, it all starts with a single snowflake.
...there I go thinking again.
I am fixing 2 of the, I forget how many, Daisen tang failures. I can tell everyone out there that even that they "failed", they are not down for the count.
Once I get them back up and running with new wood handels and oil rub down, modern epoxy instead of laha, and a good coat of rust prohibitive coating to the blade. They will be able to sit a 1000 years on a shelf, or a 100 years in the field with no problems (maybe 200 in the field and 2000 on the shelf with a Super Glue finish...I dont know
).Hey... I almost forgot... Coalblack, if you want could get into Khukuri Handel repair and fix it yourself. I have done this and 'woodchuckery' has become a way of life.
At first it is slow, but much like a gigantic earth trembleing avalanche, it all starts with a single snowflake.
...there I go thinking again.
My humble and heartfelt thanks for your understanding.
Despite the comments I made I am not sorry about the purchase. I see this as an excellent opportunity to do some, dare I say the word, 'research'. The wood of the handle will be my test bed for learnig how to refinish saatisal and I am eager to see just what will be revealed by my efforts. I think I will try putting a patina on the blade using tannic acid and see how that works out. There will of course be practical testing out in the field as well. Much can be learned I feel, through these efforts, that will stand me in good stead in the future. Who knows, this blade may yet surprise and delight me in ways unforseen.
"Always look on the bright side of life" as my favorite comedy troup once sang.
Despite the comments I made I am not sorry about the purchase. I see this as an excellent opportunity to do some, dare I say the word, 'research'. The wood of the handle will be my test bed for learnig how to refinish saatisal and I am eager to see just what will be revealed by my efforts. I think I will try putting a patina on the blade using tannic acid and see how that works out. There will of course be practical testing out in the field as well. Much can be learned I feel, through these efforts, that will stand me in good stead in the future. Who knows, this blade may yet surprise and delight me in ways unforseen.
"Always look on the bright side of life" as my favorite comedy troup once sang.
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- Mar 5, 1999
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It's the learning curve at work.
Originally posted by SamuraiDave
Hey,
I am fixing 2 of the, I forget how many, Daisen tang failures. I can tell everyone out there that even that they "failed", they are not down for the count.
Once I get them back up and running with new wood handels and oil rub down, modern epoxy instead of laha, and a good coat of rust prohibitive coating to the blade. They will be able to sit a 1000 years on a shelf, or a 100 years in the field with no problems (maybe 200 in the field and 2000 on the shelf with a Super Glue finish...I dont know
Hey... I almost forgot... Coalblack, if you want could get into Khukuri Handel repair and fix it yourself. I have done this and 'woodchuckery' has become a way of life.
At first it is slow, but much like a gigantic earth trembleing avalanche, it all starts with a single snowflake.
...there I go thinking again.
Thanks Dave, just the encouragement I needed
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2001
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You can't leave well enough alone can ya Tsimi?
I've been letting you go easy since Blues and Co. have been hammering you into the ground. The paint/pallette idea was the most accurate (tho' graphic) yet. heeheh
I thought that being hemmed in on all sides would be a bit disapointing. Obviously I was naive.
Not only am I gonna get an M43 out from under your nose, I'm gonna help B&Co. everytime. I'll send you pix.
We have to stick together. "Research" is nothing more than a politically correct word used for a more sinister purpose.
That's right:sinister. It seems that every good souled khuk nut that is infected is offered a "way out". Sorta like a "researcher" who works on a debilitating disease. Once infected himself, says "but on me it looks good".
"Come join me" " I'm great" "I've changed":barf: :barf: :barf:
Even I was fooled with the "kindly" researcher pix. No guy who looks so harmless could be so sinister. Naivete on my part once again.
Like a brick in the face....
Get ready Tsimi, I'm girding myself for the Battle Royale
Honey, I'm HOME....
Since I know how much you dislike my getting the last Durba,I'll make a long post for YOU especially.
xxooxx
p.s. have a nice day! I need to start reading up on the 1st 69 pages of the Phantom thread!!!!
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- Oct 22, 2001
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- 1,049
Originally posted by SamuraiDave
Once I get them back up and running with new wood handels and oil rub down, modern epoxy instead of laha, and a good coat of rust prohibitive coating to the blade. They will be able to sit a 1000 years on a shelf, or a 100 years in the field with no problems (maybe 200 in the field and 2000 on the shelf with a Super Glue finish...I dont know
Super Glue?
Has anyone tried it? Sounds like it would work, but I'm not even a Junior Grade Woodchuck. I'd be willing to give it a go.
Hmmm..
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Wal and Bro know all the tricks. They can tell you how to use the super glue and get the job done ritht.
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- May 18, 1999
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Originally posted by Roger Smith
Super Glue?
Has anyone tried it? Sounds like it would work, but I'm not even a Junior Grade Woodchuck. I'd be willing to give it a go.
Hmmm..
Roger a super glue finish on wood is exceptionally nice, let alone being a super hard finish as well.
I used it on my personal Flute and I'm very happy with the results!!!!!!!
The method is better suited for smooth expanses and I don't think would work well on something like the Garud handles.
I'm thinking the area that will give the most trouble is the ring around the handle.
It can be done, but the ring is gonna have to be carefully done to look really professional.
It's really not any or much more time extensive as Walosi's Oil Finish.
I recommend the BONDINI-2 Super Glue from Wal-Mart as the amount is more generous than other super glues and at a reasonable price.
You will need some finger cots or latex or vinyl gloves.
Start with about 5 bottles of glue.
I used a little more than 7-8 bottles to put seven full coats on my Flute IIRC.
Have your handle prepared nice and smooth with all dust removed.
Put a dab of glue on the handle and rub like hay'ull with a protected finger until it's as smooth as possible and dry.
Repeat until the handle is well covered at which point you will probably think you've ruined your work.
Sand the high points off with about 150- 220 grit paper. Wet or dry is best.
The trick is to get enough thickness until the super glue can be sanded down perfectly smooth all over.
When the thickness is sufficiently built up sand off the high spots the last time with the paper you've been using and then start going down in grit size until you get the finish you want.
It's much better to put on more coats than you think you needed if you want a super glossy high quality luxury finish.
Care taken to get all the high spots off with the beginning coats will really show up now.
The final before finish sanding should reveal a surface that when held up to the light and rotated is absolutely even and appears as smooth as satin.
I used 2,000 grit Si Carbide, the wet or dry paper, for my last sanding.
Then I went to rottenstone and oil to bring out the super gloss finish.
IIRC I showed Dave, and a couple of others that was interested in the finish, my personal Flute at the Catoosa Khuk Khon.
They can tell you the quality of finish the super glue is capable of.
I 1st read about the SG Finish in the Shop Talk Forum. Surprisingly my Flute doesn't get slippery when wet.
I really think it would lend itself well to a khuk handle.
The slab scales and no ring on the M-43 might be a perfect example to put one on.
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- Oct 22, 2001
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Yvsa,
The amt. of knowledge in the forum is AMAZING!
I'll try the SG finish on my next khuk, which should come in the next few days.
What is the long term results of SG? cracking, crazing, peeling, cold effects and UV yellowing are my concerns. It would be harder than the back of God's head (as my Dad says).
Could I use it on a khuk that has multiple layers of Wal's finish? I don't know if the oil would keep SG from sticking. I had thought of using gym seal, as it is hard too, but shied away.
Thanks!
The amt. of knowledge in the forum is AMAZING!
I'll try the SG finish on my next khuk, which should come in the next few days.
What is the long term results of SG? cracking, crazing, peeling, cold effects and UV yellowing are my concerns. It would be harder than the back of God's head (as my Dad says).
Could I use it on a khuk that has multiple layers of Wal's finish? I don't know if the oil would keep SG from sticking. I had thought of using gym seal, as it is hard too, but shied away.
Thanks!
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2001
- Messages
- 2,618
Roger -
I've stayed out of this one because Bro is the only one I know who has experience with the SG finish. Long-term results are probably good. The disadvantage of the oil finish is that it is relatively fragile. Unless it is waxed, it can react to sweat or rain. The advantage is that it can be patched up easily, with several passes of fine steel wool, and a couple more applications of oil. Dents can be raised with a damp washcloth and the tip of a steam iron, and periodic touch up is a snap. All these are more relative to rifle stocks (where the process came from originally) but apply to other hard-use wood handles to varying degrees. Yesterday, I saw the grips on a 3" .44 Spec. I had traded some five-six years ago. They were Pao Ferro that had 70 coats of fine-layered oil. They had been worn, under a coat, all that time. I asked the "new" owner how many times he had refinished them - "Zero, I just wipe them down with a silicon cloth every so often, and wax them once a year". There is a "heavy coat" method that I've played with, but it has some pitfalls, and I haven't worked them out yet. It isn't nearly as attractive as the "onion skin" method, but it has some applications.
I've stayed out of this one because Bro is the only one I know who has experience with the SG finish. Long-term results are probably good. The disadvantage of the oil finish is that it is relatively fragile. Unless it is waxed, it can react to sweat or rain. The advantage is that it can be patched up easily, with several passes of fine steel wool, and a couple more applications of oil. Dents can be raised with a damp washcloth and the tip of a steam iron, and periodic touch up is a snap. All these are more relative to rifle stocks (where the process came from originally) but apply to other hard-use wood handles to varying degrees. Yesterday, I saw the grips on a 3" .44 Spec. I had traded some five-six years ago. They were Pao Ferro that had 70 coats of fine-layered oil. They had been worn, under a coat, all that time. I asked the "new" owner how many times he had refinished them - "Zero, I just wipe them down with a silicon cloth every so often, and wax them once a year". There is a "heavy coat" method that I've played with, but it has some pitfalls, and I haven't worked them out yet. It isn't nearly as attractive as the "onion skin" method, but it has some applications.
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- Mar 5, 1999
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Well, there's the tricks.
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- May 18, 1999
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First of all please take heed and use a well ventilated area if you're going to put on a SG finish!!!!
I had almost forgotten the headache that amount of SG gave me. I finished putting the SG coats on outside.
Of course any time a chemical substance is heavily used proper ventilation procedures should be followed!!!!
Roger I don't have an answer for you about the 1st series of questions. You might have better luck with getting them answered in the Shop Talk Forum.
That's where I 1st saw any references to a SG finish.
It's been used with quite a lot of success on knife handles.
The guys over there are as friendly as we are here and you should get an answer the same day if the traffic is up in there.
I know it works over a tung oil finish as that's what the Flute Maker had originally put on it.
I sanded the original finish a bit to better give the SG a clean place to adhere to but I didn't anywhere near take it all off.
On the other hand I have repaired some handle cracks with the SG on nice oiled finishes and it hasn't adversly affected the oil
finish.
The shiny hard results of crack repair next to the oiled finish is what lead me to try a SG finish on my Personal Flute.
I like to take my Flute into the Sweatlodge and sometimes play it as part of the ceremony.
So far the SG finish is holding up very, very well!!!!
Sadly to say my other Flute that has a tung oil finish has once again developed surface cracks through the finish that are shallow cracks in the wood itself.
I had sanded all the cracks to where they could not be felt with *anything* rubbed over them and then used several, several coats of the tung oil on the Flute.
The finish was complete and the wood perfectly sealed with several more coats of the tung oil to help prevent further cracking of the wood and yet it has still failed.
One of these days when I get several more issues outta my hair I aim to replace the oil finish on this Flute with a SG finish.
I'm almost positive that the SG finish will solve the wood cracking problem on this Flute.
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- Mar 5, 1999
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Incredible help and advice on this forum. Many thanks!!!