Using Superglue (CA) as a temporary adhesive?

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Jun 3, 2019
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In several threads recently, people have mentioned using superglue (i.e. cyanoacrylate glue) at a temporary way to hold pieces together while you align/drill/surface finish them. Question: I just tried this with a bolster I am creating - and while I ultimately could get the pieces apart, it was ..... not simple (and acetone did not appear to make an incredibly big difference). Question: for those who use the "temporary CA" approach - how do you do it, and how do you separate the parts after you have done your drilling/finishing work?
 
First, just use a drop or two.

Then sliding a razor between the two will pop them apart.
 
Drop the glue on a piece of masking tape and take a thin pin to take a bit of glue and apply it to your knife that way.
 
All good suggestions. I tried the hammer ... worked but would like to avoid that much force. Tried a chisel, but i like the razor blade idea MUCH better.:)
 
Drop the glue on a piece of masking tape and take a thin pin to take a bit of glue and apply it to your knife that way.
I use half tube ..............easy to clean so why not to be on safe side :) I don t use clamp anymore so I simple use CA to glue blank to jig......It works super , light strike with hammer and famous CA give up :thumbsup:
CA is all over back side , tape is just in case ...... :)
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I often use thin blue tape on both pieces for bolsters...the no clean up of the bolster require.
 
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Tin blue tape?
Thin....my bad!
I have some painter's tape that is thinner than some others.....when I do this process, the thinner tape gives a closer bond and I feel it is a little more accurate.....in reality, any blue tape works fine.
 
When I super glue bolsters together and I am done. I take a propane torch to it and when you see the glue smoke I quench in water and it comes apart.

I do the same for liners.
 
When using CA glue, you probably need less than you think, and just make sure not to put the drop or two where you're going to be drilling. ;)

If necessary, a little bit of heat will separate the pieces more easily. The painters tape trick is also something I've been using a lot as well, though for just sticking a couple of pieces together for drilling, it's just as quick and easy for me to put a drop of glue down and go. The residue will likely be cleaned off when I deburr the holes on a flat piece of sandpaper, or wiping it with some acetone or denatured alcohol cleans it pretty quick as well, if you're not using a lot.
 
Please clarify the painters tape thing? You put tape on each side, then superglue the two pieces of tape? Then the tape just peels off of each side?
 
The tiniest amount of thin,

Then heat, a little soft propane trotch heat - a few or four hundred F's
 
chisel edge x acto blade, (cutting edge on 1 side) or propane method like Adam described,
which one depends on the material and thickness being worked with
 
Please clarify the painters tape thing? You put tape on each side, then superglue the two pieces of tape? Then the tape just peels off of each side?
Yes, exactly. For things like metal bolsters just gluing them together works well, but whether you heat or hammer them apart, you still have to clean up the CA residue...not so with the tape method.
 
Double sided carpet tape is a good alternative to super glue.
 
If I need to stick something non-magnetic to my surface grinder I use a drop of CA. To separate I chill the piece in the fridge for a few minutes. Place one part on anything like a 1-2-3 block, HT coupon, table edge etc and give the other part a little smack with a mallet. Pops right apart.
 
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