It’s not the most user-friendly drive I’ve used.
The motor is a 4-pole, rated for 1725 RPM at 60 Hz. Rated current seems to be 6.5A at 208V or 6A at 230V. I'd probably go somewhere in the middle and call it 6.3A at 220V.
I'd be looking at setting the parameters as follows:
P00 max Voltage 220 V
P01 Ref. Freq 60 Hz
P02 Intermediate Voltage 110 V
P03 Intermediate Freq 30 Hz
P04 Min Voltage 0 V
P05 Min Freq 0 Hz
P06 Max Operating Freq 120 Hz
P07 Min Oper Freq 0 Hz
Go through the menu and note down ALL the parameters before you change anything. Then change only the ones that need to be changed (some of the above are default values, others are not). Give it a try. See what happens.
This should just get you 0-120 Hz operation (0-3600 RPM approx at no load, 0-3450 RPM at rated current) using the controls that you are currently using. This is presumably the front panel of the VFD? You'll probably want to mount the drive in a sealed enclosure where you can't get at the controls and will need to have controls you can get at.
Many of the other parameters will need changing if/when you do this.
I have used a number of different drives over the years. I normally mount IP20 (NEMA1) drives in IP65 or IP66 enclosures (NEMA4) with a remote box on a trailing lead to provide the control. In most cases, there is a 4-pin socket on the enclosure so that different machines can be plugged in. The control box is on a long lead so it can move to the machine being used. I usually use a keyed forward/reverse switch (if the machine cannot be safely reversed, the key can be removed), a speed control potentiometer and momentary start and stop buttons (to provide No-Volt-Release functionality). The AT1 will not allow a normally-closed stop button to be used, but it can be set up to work with a normally-open "stop" button. This was properly messing with my head until I found a discussion on the Model Engineer forum that cleared things up. Worth a search for "AT1 inverter 3 wire control model engineer".
