The Zieg
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My suggestion is that you should use it until that rubber handle completely wears out, peels off, or slips off. Then have a roll of tennis racket handle tape handy.
Zieg
Recommendation? Vintage Craftsman 4810 Hatchet - Good Enough?
- Thread starter DDDYLN
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Zieg
Blue Sky
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Depending on how bad it is, I think wrapping the handle now with the self fusing tape might keep it usable for quite a while. If the handle underneath is similar to the Estwing handle, just wrapping that will not give you a very good result. Too narrow and sharp edged. The plasti-dip idea sounds good too.
I’ve been using my Estwing hatchet for a long time, and find the “steel handle hand shock problem” to be highly overrated. Sometimes I think this is one of those things that just gets picked up on and repeated because it just sounds right.
I’ve been using my Estwing hatchet for a long time, and find the “steel handle hand shock problem” to be highly overrated. Sometimes I think this is one of those things that just gets picked up on and repeated because it just sounds right.
You can use an Estwing for a long time, but if you swing it all day every day (like pro framers used to), it’ll take its toll on you. Did that in the 80s, building concrete forms.
Admittedly, most framing is done with gun nails now, and many people repeating it aren’t pro framers, so not the issue it used to be.
Parker
Thank you. As a mechanical engineer, a metal hatchet or axe head, that's a single piece of forged steel with the handle, will always be much stronger.
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Yes, underneath the rubber handle, the forged steel has kind of a "plus sign" cross section. I saw a video of somebody refurbishing their hatchet. I would have to keep the existing rubber handle I have, or there would be no way to wrap it. It seems to still be adhered on quite solidly. Honestly, the thing is in very useable shape right now, despite the slight dry rot, and the rust. It just needs some sharpening and a little TLC. I was wrong about the blade shape BTW, it has a hollow grind from the edge to the rear hammer, not a flat grind.
This hatchet/camp axe is identical to the Vaughan "AS1-1/4 Solid Steel Camp Axe With Sheath" , which has a 1.5_lb axe head. Even the chincy leather sheath hasn changed since the early 80's! For $42.26, I might buy a second one as a backup. I like this hatchet, as it's a single piece of forged steel, it has a heavier head than most camp hatchets/axes, and the steel is 1080 high carbon. If mine is 43-45 years old, yet the steel doesn't have a single chip or roll, that speaks to the quality of the heat treat and steel type. The nail remover could come in handy.
I was looking at another single piece forged hatchet, the Ontario 4230 Camp Plus Hatchet. I'm a bit partial to Ontario products. It's a bit small, though, and I suspect the micarta handle scales would not absorb shock. It's also significantly more expensive (and discontinued). Estwing's are nice, but they use 1050 carbon steel. I've seen pictures of heavily rolled edges on Estwing's, due to the lower carbon steel.
That's the one. Mine just says Craftsman on it. I have no idea where you guys find these old catalogs and old information. It's impressive. I did confirm with Vaughan, that their hatches and axes are 1080 high carbon steel. No wonder it lasted so long without any chips or folds. It is pretty rusted, though. It's mostly been sitting in a tool box for like 20+ years. I only took it with me camping a few times. I usually just use a rock to hammer in my tent spikes!Vaughan 1982 catalog No 582R
Bob
I wish Craftsman still sold these. I'd turn mine in for a new one! BTW, I forgot this camp axe lasted through a flood. Almost all my tools got completely submerged in partial sewer water in the summer of 2006. A flood came through my neighborhood, and filled the basement up to within 1" of the first floor. It also completely submerged and totalled my 2001 Toyota Tacoma TRD! The next day, I put all my tools in oil. The chrome plated tools came out fine. The carbon steel tools all rusted. I guess I didn't get them in the oil fast enough. They still all work, so I never bothered taking them to Sears for replacements. I believe Lowes will still replace Craftsman tools. I should probably start doing that. It used to be easier when Sears was still in business. As for my Tacoma, State Farm cut me a check for $17,500, and it had 88K miles on it. I only paid $21,300 for it brand new. That was sort of a blessing in disguise!Vaughan 1982 catalog No 582R
Bob
rjdankert
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Here is mine for some more detail.:
It was given to me a few years ago. I don't know the history of it. It was used and the poll was mushroomed as seen. The grip had hardened and was a bit slick. I went over it with some coarse sandpaper which helped a little. Good product IMO.
Bob
That's the exact one I have. Mine is just a lot more rusty (due to the flood). I do, however, have the original leather sheath. If you are missing the sheath, I believe you can buy one from Vaughan.Here is mine for some more detail.:
It was given to me a few years ago. I don't know the history of it. It was used and the poll was mushroomed as seen. The grip had hardened and was a bit slick. I went over it with some coarse sandpaper which helped a little. Good product IMO.
Bob
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I was going to mention this. But the difference is that a framer or form setter will be swinging that hammer hours a day and no one is gonna swing a hatchet that much. Form setters mostly use the Estwing 20 oz rip hammer. Conditions are rough in concrete work and the toughness of steel handle make it the choice for this work. An old time framer hand-banging 16 penny sinkers all day would ruin his wrist pretty quick with the steel handle. And framers pull nails by pulling the hammer sideways. That warps the neck of steel handled hammers.
Steel for concrete work. Hickory for framing.
That makes sense
I was handed one of these last spring at Scout camp while I was teaching Woods Tools usage to a class of new Scoutmasters. It was dirty, dull and rusty, and I used it as and example of HOW NOT to treat good equipment. The Ranger let me keep it and I took it home, cleaned off the dirt, honed the edge sharp and knocked most of the rust off with a plastic wheel. A nice stout tool and the handle is still firm all over. Gonna keep it.
Yeah, I'm going to pretty mine up, and keep it. It's one of the best 1.5_lb hand axes available - 1080 high carbon steel.
I weighed mine. It was 1_lb 9.1_oz. I'm guessing strick quality control was the same in the late 70's, early 80's.Here is mine for some more detail.:
It was given to me a few years ago. I don't know the history of it. It was used and the poll was mushroomed as seen. The grip had hardened and was a bit slick. I went over it with some coarse sandpaper which helped a little. Good product IMO.
Bob
Everyone, I got 50% of the rust off my old Craftsman 4810 Hand Axe (Vaughan MN: 33402) with 00 steel wool. I then got the blade hair shaving sharp. My old can of WD-40 decided to not spray for me, today of all days. I opened it up with a cheap can opener, poured WD-40 all over the blade and handle, but only on the part of the handle that's doesn't have the rubber over-mould handle, which was surprisingly free of most rust. I had to remove a few old ineligible stickers on the metal part of the handle. I put plastic wrap around the metal handle and blade, plastic bags, and then duct taped it around the handle as tight as I could. I'll probably have to buy a more abrasive steel wool to get the rest of the rust off, unless anyone has a better suggestion. I'm hopeful that 2 days of WD-40, will do most of the work. I cleaned the leather sheath with warmish water, and dried it as much as possible. When it's fully dry tomorrow, I'll rub some grape seed oil into it. The leather sheath is in surprisingly good shape for a 44+ year old camp axe. The rubber over-mould handle is in good shape as well, but there as a few cracks I need to seel. I'm trying to decide between Shoe-Goo, or J-B Weld. If someone has a better suggestion, please let her know. I figure after the rubber handle glue has dried, i'll wrap it with some hockey tape, or something better.
Thanks for all the help and advice
Thanks for all the help and advice
It weighs 25.1_oz. the blade and handle are a single piece of forged 1080 high carbon steel. A Fiskars might be a bit lighter, but I don't trust a stainless steel hand axe head.
They are carbon.