waterstone finish report 2

Joined
Jul 3, 2002
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645
OK I have 3 stones now, 320, 1000, 2000 and a LITTLE more experience.

There are no silver bullets! This is a bit tricky.

Here's what I know so far:

#1 Stones that can cut steel, can cut fingers. I have two slow healing abrasions on my finger tips. Catches you unaware. Smooth stone, cool water, slow motion, blood everywhere. Keep your fingers on the steel.

#2 Many (all?) natural stones work with a slurry. The ceramic stones from Shapton don't need that. However, I was having trouble with the 320 stone so I worked up a slurry and used that. That worked better, but left deep scratches. 320 to 1000 was too much. I have to go back to the grinder to clean them up.

#3 The stones load up. It's a bit of a trick to keep them in good working order. At first I thought nothing was happening. Then I used 80 grit over glass and worked the stone a bit. Voom, it was cutting very well.

#4 They cut S30V better than trizac belts. A smooth motion and medium/light pressure on the stone is about as fast as a the same grit paper and a hard backing with firm pressure. This stone idea might work, but it takes practice.

#5 Grit wise my stones are roughly the same as the real Japanese foundation stones: Binsui, Kaisei, and Nagura. What I don't know is how these ceramic stones compare.

Bottom line, I can't recommend anyone else spending the $$.

I'll keep trying them out on s30V and I'm going to try them on 1095 soon. Since so many have expressed interest I'll make one more report.

Steve
 
and, please keep me up to date on your experience with them, where to get them, how best to use them, and how much. I have no idea except that I guess you are hand grinding a finish with them. S30V sure does fight back when it comes to giving up its shine!

Thanks; Roger
 
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