Wax for bandsaw?

B

b4thewheel

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Dec 22, 2009
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I just brought home a horizontal/verticle bandsaw. Was looking arround the shop for oil to lube the blade, when I remembered that I've seen my buddy using old candles on his blade, says it doesn't make the mess that oil does, and works good too.

I'd never seen this anywhere else. Wondering if'n he knows what the heck he is doing. I have a bunch of old leftover candles in a box, probably a lifetime supply. But does that really work? As well as oil?
 
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Not as good as oil, because it doesn't cool, it does help lubricate. Lenox makes what they call Lube Tube, it is a tallow based lube that works the same way. It is especially good for materials that like to stick in teeth like aluminum. It also works well on files to help keep filings out of the file and reduce "pinning", scratching of the knife blade when filing on it.
 
I use a product that is mostly bees wax to lube the blade. I buy it through MSC Ind. I dont see why candle wax wouldn't work just as well.
 
My wife has used my band saw to trim candles. Made a hell of a mess on the blade and pullys. I don't recommend it.
Rennaissance Wax would get mighty expensive!
WD 40 works well.
 
Renaissance wax is to coat the band saw table and prevent rust.....not for lubrication. Like Bill said, it would be one heck of an expensive lubricant...and a poor one at that.

On a metal cutting band saw you have two ways to go. Either cut with the blade dry, or cut with the blade flooded with cutting oil. If using cutting oil, you have to have a band saw made for that. If you have a cheaper 4X7 HF type band saw, you will be cutting dry. Get a good Lenox or similar blade, use the right blade speed, and don't try and cut too fast. Waxing the blade would not be a good idea for many reasons.
Stacy
 
I use a cake of beeswax, straight. Works good for me, improves the cut just like cutting oil.
 
While wax will smooth the cut for a short time, it won't stay on the teeth tips for long, which is the cutting point that needs lubrication and cooling. It will however accumulate on the tires and guide rollers/blocks. It will collect small metal grit and dirt there. These are two parts of your band saw that you want to stay clean.
Stacy
 
Fascinating. Seems to be a bit of a contraversial subject.

I tried it yesterday. Running the blade on slowest speed, it doesn't heat up enough to melt, and therefore doesn't gum up and make a mess.

Running dry I'd never heard of either. (which isn't suprising as I don't know much yet.) Right now it's still got the Chi-com cheapy blade on it. I figured I'd wear it out before I invest in a good Bi-metal Lennox or something.

Thanks for the info guys.
 
Order the Lenox bi-metal blade now. That Chinese blade won't last very long. It will probably be toast before the mail delivers the new one. Most band saws smaller than 60" are run with no lubrication. That includes the HF 4X7s, and portaband units.
Stacy
 
he's basically saying that the wax may help with cutting, but the wax will clog up your bearings and pulleys while trapping shavings and grit in those places causing them to wear out prematurely
 
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Like Stacy said, no need to lube the blade on a small metal bandsaw for blade thick steel. Having tried with and without, Ive not seen a difference in cutting or blade life
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Order the Lenox bi-metal blade now. That Chinese blade won't last very long. It will probably be toast before the mail delivers the new one. Most band saws smaller than 60" are run with no lubrication. That includes the HF 4X7s, and portaband units.
Stacy
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I am so surprised that my chinese bimetal blade has been working great for a long time and half the price of a Starret, I have use lennox and osborne(ithinkis the name) so I will be buying another one for my small metal cutting bandsaw. I just today bought a large tube of Lennox wax lube, under $10 at Patton's, just made a couple of cuts and am happy so far.
 
I run my porta-band in an upright fixture with a modified work surface and use a little wd-40 here and there on thick stuff. The Chinese blades will last for a few cuts, but like Stacy said you will find yourself bearing into them pretty quick.

Better blades last longer and I agree with the Lennox nods. Have a tooth pattern with 3-4 teeth in the material thickness you're cutting at all times and moderate pressure should get it done. If you're bearing into it too hard you will wear out other things, besides your arms....

-Eric
Overmountain Knife and Tool
Overmountain.us.com
 
I use a stick wax lube sawing aluminum. Otherwise its a nasty rough galled up mess of a cut.
Its packaged in a cardboard tube much the same size as tube of grease or caulk. A stick will last a long time.
Think its made by Castrol, but not sure. It does not take much, its been years working on that same stick.
 
marekz said:
I was just in a band saw class--they said rennesance wax.-marekz
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Six year old thread resurrected. I will point out something that was in error - Renaissance wax is to protect the sw table from rust. It would be very expensive as a lubricant ( and probably a poor one). WD0-40 is not a lubricant either, and is poor when used as it on power tools. Both are for moisture exclusion to prevent rust.
 
WoW...6 year old thread.......FWIW there is an inexpensive push tube lube "Boelube" 4 ounce is like $3 and good for drill bits and end mills not messy used this stuff for all my "dry" cutting processes.
 
^ lmao
For what it's worth what Stacy said about wax balling up in your machines is true we use a bunch of it in my trade when working with aluminum it's best usage is to lube screws and drill bits .. but we use it on our saws too

Makes a mess but helps with galling
 
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