What did you rehang today?

Curly grain wants high angles, close chip breakers, and realllly sharp blades, ime. Skew strokes and even across the grain can work if you're setup right. Card scrapers and a scraper plane can also be great when you're finishing.
 
Bad mushrooming
The eye is pushed out from excessive hammering I am assuming

Rehung, walnut and hardware replacement wedges

PLUMB
14" @ 1 1/2lbs

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I'm about to try that with a Connie I got from JB off eBay. Worst happens I chip it, or resort to the belts to zip it off. If anyone has any tips on how much heat and force etc it'd be appreciated!

Looking forward to that hang, gonna put it on a slim 30"ish haft with a legit scroll end. Needs filed too.

Hey JB, that tongue came out super easy even with that gnarly metal wedge.
 
I'm really getting some mileage outta this axe. Last time I'll post it, promise. I hung it today on a less than perfect link haft. Mixed sap and heart wood and runout galore. But i bet barring an over strike it'll last a long time just the same.
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I find this craftsman interesting. I haven't seen very many with bevels. It cuts incredibly well. 3-3/4# on a 34-1/2".
 
Don’t think I will ever get tired of that head.Got a council tool handle in the mail looked like that and it’s held up the summer so far.
 
Yankee Josh said:
I'm really getting some mileage outta this axe. Last time I'll post it, promise. I hung it today on a less than perfect link haft. Mixed sap and heart wood and runout galore. But i bet barring an over strike it'll last a long time just the same.
K6pwY4P.jpg
oPXieOu.jpg
gfSLg68.jpg
894vURy.jpg
p8QFaUW.jpg
BbNC5gp.jpg
QHbTY7d.jpg
oVFCSF7.jpg

I find this craftsman interesting. I haven't seen very many with bevels. It cuts incredibly well. 3-3/4# on a 34-1/2".
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Looks like a winner.
 
Fmont said:
If anyone has any tips on how much heat and force etc it'd be appreciated!
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Whenever you move steel at less than forging heat you're doing some damage to it. But I don't think much in this case. You're not looking to change the cross section, just push it back in shape. And recall that it more than likely deformed under no heat at all.

I've done a few of these with just a propane torch and a wet rag around the bit. Remember that whatever metal is hottest moves the most. So heat one side and beat it straight. The other side being colder will hold it's form. Then cool the first side and do the second side. If you shine up the steel a little bit and heat it until you see the first sign of a straw temper color appear than you're hot enough. You really wouldn't even need the wet rag. It's just a precaution. Even only too hot to touch will do it.

I recall building a dental clinic in a strip mall back in the 1990's. About a month after it opened the strip mall burned down with the exception of the dental clinic (fire walls work). But what struck me most was seeing the aftermath of the fire the next morning. The steel roof trusses had sagged and collapsed while the glu-lam wood beams that supported them were only charred but still standing. The wood survived the fire better than the steel. Same thing happened in the World Trade Center during 9/11. The steel floor trusses sagged under the heat and failed, separating the core from the shell (but no wood in this case). That's what brought them down. And no apologies to any conspiracy theorists who believe otherwise.
 
jmarston said:
This was carved from a birch I harvested earlier this summer. I will get some better photos of all angles. Our trees grow very slowly up here due to the short growing season which makes for tight grain. One problem I emcountered was when the grain curls. The grain switches direction abruptly and only for 3/8". I am having a tough time keeping it from tearing out at the curl.
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Thanks. We really like to see the different approaches taken around the world, with locally-sourced materials, and using local traditions, to basically reach the same end goal.
 
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jblyttle said:
IMG_20181205_074606 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr
IMG_20181205_074647 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr
IMG_20181205_074706 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr
IMG_20181205_074720 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr
IMG_20181205_074804 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr
IMG_20181205_074756 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr
IMG_20181205_074749 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr
IMG_20181205_074736 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr
IMG_20181205_074632 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr
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Thats a beauty JB. Hardly used.
I wonder about those TT's that are rougher ground like the Plumbs during WW2. Same time frame?
 
Nbrackett said:
These for a good buddy that has two young boys in scouts.







When I got to TN Hickory they didn’t have any hatchet handles complete, just blanked out like the one on the left. I took these and they sanded them for me. Can’t beat them for $2.00.

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Plenty of material to make a nice swell.
 
Hickory n steel said:
This " Sager chrmicalaxe " ( unconfirmed ) had a bit of deforming to the eye, and I carefully put it back with a 14oz ball peen hammer.
Did it cold and it's not exactly hard at the eye so it went perfectly fine, I also hammered back some mushrooming

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Them Chemical axes have really soft bodies. That thing is just begging for a nice grind.:thumbsup:
 
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