what kind of steel do you guys think this is?

B

bartblade

Joined
Nov 4, 2002
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344
ok i tempered the blade as close to the instructions you guys gave me. i tryied the magnet test and it didnt have maganability and quenched it. today i was making starting on making the lock bar and just out of quariosity i put a magnet to the same metal and this is metal before i have done anything too it, but it didnt stick to the magnet is this still 440c all i can go by is what i was told. It does hold a great edge and cleans up very well i have made a lot of knives from this and have not had any complaints. im pretty sure it is stainless but like i said before i am not very knowledgeable in metalargy. so what do you guys think the first pocket knife i made from this steel is at http://prifiles.yahoo.com/day_walker74003 you can click on the pic to get a better look at it. all the other knives i have made from this steel are full tang skinners.

thanks, dale
 
Try another magnet. Red heat takes a toll on magnets and I've killed a couple just by checking cherry hot steel with'em.
 
i thought about that after i posted that. so i tryied all the magnets i could find none of them would stick to this steel!!!???
 
i thought about that after i posted that. so i tryied all the magnets i could find none of them would stick to this steel!!!???
 
Originally posted by bartblade
so what kind do you think it is it has good edge holding abilities?
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If it's stainless at all, I would say 300 series, which is non magnetic.
You can test for stainless by putting some cold blue on it. If it won't take, it's stainless.

As far as taking a great edge, I remind you that mild steel can be made to take an edge good enough to pass the rope cutting tests.:confused:
 
have not had any complaints. im pretty sure
it is stainless but like i said before i am not very knowledgeable in metalargy
Click to expand...
like Mike said too..
not to be rude but are you taking money for
these not knowing the steel? :(
no complaints doesn't mean they are happy
campers:(
it's your rep your are building,,
 
ok thanks for the advice guys i realy appreciate your honesty! do you know any way i can test this stuff to find out exactly what it is? And i have only sold a few to people i work with almost everyday and if they have a problem with one of my knives they know they can come to me infact i have done all of the resharpening to them. But i do see what you guys are saying loud and clear!!!

i thought that the 300 series would not hold an edge! hum learn something new everyday this is good! thanks for the input!

dale
 
The only way to know for sure is to take a sample to a lab and have them run a test on it that will show what the elemental make-up of the steel is. I can't remember what the test is called for the life of me right now. :confused:

Chemical spectography(?) or something to that effect.:confused:


I hope this helps.


All the best,
Mike U.
 
Check the ends of any bars you have left to see if they are painted, if they are you can check that with your supplier to see what the color code matches. Hopefully you'll find out they accidentally gave you talonite or something.

Another thought...are dendritic blades magnetic ? That might explain why you were told that its 440C, and you have good edge holding, but its not magnetic. I wasn't aware that you could get that stuff in blanks though, thought you had to buy blades like a kit knife.
 
I have to agree... using "any old steel" for a knife is pretty amateurish. Even for an amateur. Seems like a huge waste of time and money (belts or files, whatever) for the most part.

The test is called "X-Ray fluorescence", and it is pretty accurate in assessing any elements in the alloy that the device is set up for, aside from carbon (so you can't tell, e.g., 440A from 440C generally, nor can you tell 1084 from 1095).

Texas Nuclear makes one, others do too. One example:

http://www.thermo.com/eThermo/CDA/Products/Product_Detail/1,1075,22789-137,00.html

To get the carbon content, there is a somewhat more destructive "spark tester" analyzer. It leaves a mark on the sample.
 
Originally posted by bartblade
do you know any way i can test this stuff to find out exactly what it is? ..........dale
Click to expand...


The best bet would be to buy from a reputable steel supplier, and get known steels that you can work.

For what you are doing, I would suggest O1, 5160, 1095, 1084, etc. These can all be heat reated by people lacking more expensive ovens.
Stainless steels are a more complex alloy, and require more detailed heat treat than you are doing.
You/your customer will get better blades from the regular tool steel, at this point in your knifemaking career.

Later, if you still want stainless blades, you will have a better foundation from which to build. Good luck.

http://www.admiralsteel.com/

http://www.texasknife.com/
You can buy smaller quantities of steel here.

:D
 
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