What makes a FFG so difficult?

Ken H> said:
You are so right Kevin about not stopping at ANY point when vertical grinding on a wheel! Lift before stopping for sure. Your method does work good, I just finished a blade today. It's a 5" petty chef ready for handles, then final sharpening. I think this method works very good. The final test will be with completed knife tested with slicing.

Ken H>
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Glad to hear it. I'm sure others have done this before, but I had never heard of it. It just dawned on me a few months ago, after I got a 12" wheel. Let me know how it works out for you.
 
Maelstrom78 said:
Salem thanks for the insight. I've been on the convexing wagon for a while now. I've been taking mine to maybe .12 before convexing. I'll try some a little thicker to see how that affects food release. Darn taters!
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I assume you mean you've been taking it down to .012" before convexing?
I'm surprised if that's having much effect for you! If so, that's good, you'd be retaining a whole lot of thin slicing ability!
 
I've always done the paper thin ffg approach myself, and had a plunge line between the heel of the blade and the front of the handle scale.
This is why I love forums though, you've given me something new to try, and something to make this next batch of kitchen knives a bit more fun
 
Plunges are over-rated. :)
This one is a convex grind, with a plunge that I just blended. I like it. That's all that matters, right?

WesternGyuto-4.jpg
 
Brock, that sure looks good. I agree on plunge lines. When I first starting making knifes I tended to blend them because I couldn't do a good plunge. As I learned more, I added the plunge because I could do them. Now, I'm thinking "no plunge" especially on kitchen knives. The idea of a sheath for a kitchen knife is sorta new for me also. BUT - I can see a chef who carries knife to work and back would need something. We use a knife block here at home, and I guess I tend to think everybody uses a knife block.

Ken H>
 
Ken H> said:
Brock, that sure looks good. I agree on plunge lines. When I first starting making knifes I tended to blend them because I couldn't do a good plunge. As I learned more, I added the plunge because I could do them. Now, I'm thinking "no plunge" especially on kitchen knives. The idea of a sheath for a kitchen knife is sorta new for me also. BUT - I can see a chef who carries knife to work and back would need something. We use a knife block here at home, and I guess I tend to think everybody uses a knife block.

Ken H>
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Chefs use a knife roll.
 
Salem Straub said:
I assume you mean you've been taking it down to .012" before convexing?
I'm surprised if that's having much effect for you! If so, that's good, you'd be retaining a whole lot of thin slicing ability!
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Yes your assumption is correct. I said I was convexing I didn't say I knew what I was doing!
 
Thanks Sprayman. That one is 52100 and Manzanita burl. Can't remember what thickness I started with, but I do remember it was way too thick. I ground that thing for quite some time. :)
 
This is good info. I had a (noob) question about grinding/heat treat though. I'm in the process of making my first 1084/15n20 low layer damascus paring knife.. Finally forging one to shape. My question is do I have to worry about affecting the hardness/temper by grinding off too much, or if it is heat treated properly the hardness should be consistent throughout the steel? I think I already know the answer but just checking with more experienced smiths before I get there cuz I really don't wanna screw this up lol.
 
Just curious here, (not that I am a someone who has EVER done a FFG mind you) but wouldn't a reversible disc be good for this kinda thing?

I was chuckling reading this thread and thinking back to having Tim Wright mention to me (between the bad jokes) how much work FFGs on kitchen knives were to get perfectly flat and how hot the blade got.

Corey "synthesist" Gimbel
 
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