What sharpening system should I buy to get into sharpening

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Will1217

Joined
Aug 31, 2023
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Hello all, throughout the last year or so I have built up a collection of upwards of a dozen knives which are all carried and used. Obviously with daily carry they start to become dull, and I am quite uninterested in sending my knives back for a "spa service" constantly that leads me to be knifeless for over a month at a time. I am looking to get into sharpening my own knives (something I have no experience with), and I do not know what sharpening system I should buy. What's the difference between me spending $300 on a work sharp precision adjust versus upwards of $1,000 on a wicked edge. I would have to assume the main difference in price is the number of sharpening stones that come with each brands system, but I do not know what grit stones I would need. I am sure, like anything else, there are the basics to sharpening and the complicated parts to sharpening but I want to buy something that will allow me to learn and progress when sharpening my knives, for an example I would like to put a basic edge on some of my cheaper knives I consider work knives but I am also very interested in learning how to put mirror edges on my more expensive/fancy knives. Any input from the sharpening pros out there would be very much appreciated! thanks blade forums.
 
Just starting out with a guided system. I chose the lansky sharpener. No it is not ultra precision like some of the systems out there. But I have used the lansky sharpener to get knives ultra sharp. Like tree topping, hair whittling sharp. There are a few techniques to use to make the system work really well. We are talking under $100. Just to get a knife sharp. Just to try it and see just how deep down the sharpening rabbit hole you want to go. I think this is a great place to start. I got the 4 stone diamond set and added the ultra fine yellow handled stone I think its a 1000 grit so not what most would call ultra fine but it's what lansky calls it. Just my thoughts. Enjoy the new hobby.

Mike22
 
Yes a basic guided system is a good place to start - I have the cheapest work sharp and it does well, maybe add a strop and a big coarse diamond stone for reprofiling. If you can get a razor edge on that system then you don't need to spend more, unless you want to.
 
Everyone is going to have their own opinion on what is the best system. Some systems use proprietary stones. Others don't. I suggest getting one that uses Edge Pro style stones. There seems to be the most stone options with that style. With some systems you hold the knife on an angled table with one hand, while sharpening with the other hand. The other method commonly used is some form of clamps to hold the blade. I suggest looking at Gritomatics web page. He sells at least six different brands of sharpeners, with multiple models in each brand, and just about any stone you could want.

I like and use a Hapstone sharpener. It is a modular system. There is a base , and then different modules that fit on it. Magnetic tables, a clamp module with many clamp options, a scissor sharpening module, and a plane and chisel sharpening module. It uses edge pro form factor stones, so there are probable hundreds of options, You could get a basic diamond plate set of three or five stones to get started, they don't cost a lot, and will get any knife you have sharp. Then expand from that, as you get more experienced.

You should also be aware that there are multiple grit rating systems. so 400 grit in one stone isn't necessarily the same as 400 grit in another brand stone. See the Grand unified grit chart thread. Gritomatic has links to a version of that chart from most of his stone pages, so you have a way to compare apples to oranges.

O.B.
 
Will1217 said:
Hello all, throughout the last year or so I have built up a collection of upwards of a dozen knives which are all carried and used. Obviously with daily carry they start to become dull, and I am quite uninterested in sending my knives back for a "spa service" constantly that leads me to be knifeless for over a month at a time. I am looking to get into sharpening my own knives (something I have no experience with), and I do not know what sharpening system I should buy. What's the difference between me spending $300 on a work sharp precision adjust versus upwards of $1,000 on a wicked edge. I would have to assume the main difference in price is the number of sharpening stones that come with each brands system, but I do not know what grit stones I would need. I am sure, like anything else, there are the basics to sharpening and the complicated parts to sharpening but I want to buy something that will allow me to learn and progress when sharpening my knives, for an example I would like to put a basic edge on some of my cheaper knives I consider work knives but I am also very interested in learning how to put mirror edges on my more expensive/fancy knives. Any input from the sharpening pros out there would be very much appreciated! thanks blade forums.
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A Work Sharp Precision Adjust is $60 with free shipping from Amazon. That is a fine system to start learning on. It is quick to set up and easy to use. The clamp has rubber inserts, which are easier to use than the plain metal clamps on many systems. It will not work with extremely large or extremely small knives. The bevels tend to be somewhat convex, but there is nothing wrong with that.

You should also get a Knives Plus Strop Block, which is important for deburring. Don't forget the masking tape (to protect the parts of the knife that you do not want to sharpen) and a marker or two (for setting the angle; I prefer red). You may want a digital angle gauge.

Once you get the hang of all that, you can step up to the Work Sharp Elite or Professional version or to one of the fancier systems such as Hapstone or TSProf for which you can choose however many stones of whatever quality you wish. Or you may be perfectly happy with the basic Work Sharp Precision Adjust.

There are many differences among the various sharpening systems. Some of them are a real PITA to put together. Construction quality varies widely. Some have a heavy, stable base, while others are clamped to a table or even hand-held. Some of them require hex keys or screwdrivers to make adjustments while you are sharpening. Angle adjustments are easier or more precise on some systems than others. Some systems have magnetic tables that can be used with blades that do not fit the clamps. Some allow you to easily flip the knife back and forth to work on both sides. Some allow you to remove the clamp while the knife is still attached so you can test the sharpness without having to reclamp the knife. Some require more space on your work bench. Some require a lot of storage space. Some are easy to move. And so on ...

I would advise against diving into Wicked Edge until you have some experience. Some people love WE. Some people have differing opinions. But clearly the WE systems are unnecessarily expensive because they require two stones of each grit.

Watch Youtube videos to see various systems in use.
 
I have the Work Sharp and it is great, but any decent guided system is going to get you started and with most of them you can upgrade as you go. Also get your self a few inexpensive knives to practice on to figure out you angles and technique.
 
Mike22 said:
Just starting out with a guided system. I chose the lansky sharpener. No it is not ultra precision like some of the systems out there. But I have used the lansky sharpener to get knives ultra sharp. Like tree topping, hair whittling sharp. There are a few techniques to use to make the system work really well. We are talking under $100. Just to get a knife sharp. Just to try it and see just how deep down the sharpening rabbit hole you want to go. I think this is a great place to start. I got the 4 stone diamond set and added the ultra fine yellow handled stone I think its a 1000 grit so not what most would call ultra fine but it's what lansky calls it. Just my thoughts. Enjoy the new hobby.

Mike22
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My first guided system was a Lanksy, and while it isn't often considered to be a top choice in light of the newer or more expensive set-ups; I totally agree, I have achieved some pretty impressive edges with one. The stones are narrow so it does take more time and precision to get the right scratch pattern, but with just a little practice they fit a niche. The yellow handled ceramic and the blue sapphire stones are good hones as well and can get the user somewhat close to a mirror edge.
 
I remember in my early 20's a guy showing me his pocket knife. Straight bragging on how sharp it was. And it was indeed sharp.

Asking how he did it. He described his Lansky. The early three stone model.

Not long after that. I bought one. Even if you're not into sharpening. You can get a really nice edge with a Lansky.
 
I have a bunch of different systems and they all have pros and cons. I am currently playing with a worksharp pro system and really am enjoying it. It’s not cheap, but you can sharpen most knives and steels out there. Like anything, you can add upgrades as you go. It’s a slippery slope. Good luck.
 
Slippery slope it is.

It's easy to spend over two grand (USD) on a complete, top of the line, system. And beware of systems that have a bunch of clamp options. Because if you want to sharpen it all. You'll have to buy every single clamp.

Regular clamps, flat bevel clamp (Spyderco), and a fillet clamp for the skinny blades. The Benchmade Auto Fact being one. The blade is about a half inch wide and to sharpen such a thing. It requires a specific clamp.

At a $100 a pop. It's no joke. $300 in clamps is easy.

And good grief.... The high end stones. $$$
 
For these sharpeners like the Worksharp precision, is it best to run the stones in one direction over the blade, like heel to tip, or use a sawing motion?
 
RugerNurse said:
For these sharpeners like the Worksharp precision, is it best to run the stones in one direction over the blade, like heel to tip, or use a sawing motion?
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Either. When you're removing metal, scrub it. When you're finishing the edge, rub it. Against the edge. One stroke, lift, another stroke.
 
Will1217 said:
That is a very kind offer of you! but I am going to respectfully decline since I have gotten one of those given to me already believe it or not.
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So, you already have Lansky. What's wrong with it?
 
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There are many different systems out there that work very well. I am partial to the Spyderco Sharpmaker. It does a good job and is fairly versatile.
 
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When I decided to move up from my KME, I found out how deep the rabbit hole is for guided systems. And then after purchasing a nicer sharpener, I needed high quality stones and strops, right? That's when I learned the abrasive rabbit hole is pretty deep, too.
 
I have a hapstone system and, as a result, a new addiction to abrasives and gadgets.

I love the ability to create a new edge that is razor sharp. It is less fun for maintenance sharpening where you want to align perfectly with your edge.

I have tried two approaches, one is to apply a rule, I.e always centre and square the knife at xyz depth into the clamp. The other is to take notes for each knife (this worked till I got lazy and let the notebook get covered in water and emulsion).
Still a bit fiddly, for minor sharpening I have gone back to sharpmaker and strops.

so apart from messy, fiddly and addictive the only other downside is people wanting you to sharpen their knives all the time! Honestly, i love the system though. Hmm, actually not in love with the convex adapter, it works but doesn't seem as robust as the rest of it.
 
Yeah, once people find out you can lay an edge. Something sharper then anything they've ever experienced.

They'll start pulling out the junk. We live in a knife bubble. A bubble of brand names and steel types. While the rest of the world is perfectly happy with a POS knife.

A POS knife they'll gladly get you to sharpen. Because it has memories of that magical rest stop at a Flying J truck stop. The ultimate knife.
 
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