What steel do you prefer for hunting knives?

Do you know of anything like that that isn't made in China?

No, can't say I do. At least not with just this single tool in it. The Vic Hunter XS is Swiss made, also an excellent piece of kit. If you don't do any skinning and break down in the field, it is really all you need for gutting. I keep one in my car, and occasionally bring it hunting.
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How hard do you run the z-wear for a hunter?

Rc63/64. It’s tougher at that hardness than 1095 or O1 is at Rc60. The hardness lets you use a fine edge at 0.005” before sharpening. Heat treat at 1975f or 2000f, Cryo for 1h, and temper between 350 and 400f. If you heat treat hotter than 1975, use three tempers just to be sure. Probably not needed, but I do it anyway.
 
Rc63/64. It’s tougher at that hardness than 1095 or O1 is at Rc60. The hardness lets you use a fine edge at 0.005” before sharpening. Heat treat at 1975f or 2000f, Cryo for 1h, and temper between 350 and 400f. If you heat treat hotter than 1975, use three tempers just to be sure. Probably not needed, but I do it anyway.

Thanks man. How long do you let it soak at 1975 for?
 
I don't shop in the woods much anymore, but my hunting knife is a 3"x0.125" piece in A2, and I don't see any reason to update it. A2 is nice and stable in heat-treat, and up around 61 cuts aggressively for a long time. No need for thick spine in a hunting knife - that won't protect the edge. And if you're beating up your edge, better cutting technique is a better investment. A hunting knife should be a precision tool, IMO.
 
I don't shop in the woods much anymore, but my hunting knife is a 3"x0.125" piece in A2, and I don't see any reason to update it. A2 is nice and stable in heat-treat, and up around 61 cuts aggressively for a long time. No need for thick spine in a hunting knife - that won't protect the edge. And if you're beating up your edge, better cutting technique is a better investment. A hunting knife should be a precision tool, IMO.

I agree. Pretty sure Horsewright Horsewright strictly uses A2 also. And his market is for straight up cowboys so that's gotta say something. If I'm not mistaken 3v is an updated version of a2 but @Larrin would have to clarify that
 
I agree. Pretty sure Horsewright Horsewright strictly uses A2 also. And his market is for straight up cowboys so that's gotta say something. If I'm not mistaken 3v is an updated version of a2 but @Larrin would have to clarify that

Yeah for my hunting; skinning knives I use A2. It works. Have made many for professional guides etc that really use them. They buy more.
 
Well, considering hunting and outdoors is the main reason I got into knife making. I’ll share my thoughts and experience. I hunt most everything I can, rabbits to elk, waterfowl,and all game birds. We raise and butcher hogs every year too. We cut most of our own meat. I’ve tried several different steels, and I’ve pretty much settled on what I would call a mid grade high alloy tool steel. My favorites being 3v,4v, and ztuff. Ztuff, can skin and quarter about half an elk or more with just a quick hit on a ceramic stone. I’d say that’s dam good, considering you don’t have to worry about rust, or breakage at all with that steel. 3v would be my choice for a good all around tough steel, with excellent toothy skinning ability. It will work about an entire bull without a touch up. Everyone knows that an 800 pound bull elk is a lot of work in the field. One elk is probably equivalent to around 3-4 deer. The hide is insanely tough and thick, and usually full of mud. And I find 3v easy to touch up after, hammering through bone won’t destroy it either. Z-wear and 4v grade is excellent too. With the low temper you don’t have to worry about rust at all. They are a step up from 3v in edge retention for sure. Probably better suited to skinning cattle and moose. I have yet to really use, or need stainless honestly! I’m actually making me a vanadis 4 caper for me and a friend for our bear hunt this year! Hollow ground, trailing point caper!
 
How is the z-wear with rusting? I know it's not stainless.
Kinda stuck between z-wear and elmax right now
Both steels are excellent.

I've found that Zwear takes a patina a little easier than 3V. But it's very easy to take care of. I use EDCI on my blades and havent had any issues. But to be fair I absolutely love Zwear. I found that 63HRC with a low temper....ooooh baby. Good stuff!

If you are concerned with corrosion try Elmax at 61HRC or so. Great stuff.

As for S45VN I have yet to try it. But @DeadboxHero and Willie71 Willie71 know what they are doing!!
 
Well, considering hunting and outdoors is the main reason I got into knife making. I’ll share my thoughts and experience. I hunt most everything I can, rabbits to elk, waterfowl,and all game birds. We raise and butcher hogs every year too. We cut most of our own meat. I’ve tried several different steels, and I’ve pretty much settled on what I would call a mid grade high alloy tool steel. My favorites being 3v,4v, and ztuff. Ztuff, can skin and quarter about half an elk or more with just a quick hit on a ceramic stone. I’d say that’s dam good, considering you don’t have to worry about rust, or breakage at all with that steel. 3v would be my choice for a good all around tough steel, with excellent toothy skinning ability. It will work about an entire bull without a touch up. Everyone knows that an 800 pound bull elk is a lot of work in the field. One elk is probably equivalent to around 3-4 deer. The hide is insanely tough and thick, and usually full of mud. And I find 3v easy to touch up after, hammering through bone won’t destroy it either. Z-wear and 4v grade is excellent too. With the low temper you don’t have to worry about rust at all. They are a step up from 3v in edge retention for sure. Probably better suited to skinning cattle and moose. I have yet to really use, or need stainless honestly! I’m actually making me a vanadis 4 caper for me and a friend for our bear hunt this year! Hollow ground, trailing point caper!

Thanks man I really appreciate the insight!!!
 
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