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What to do with a BK10 blank?

TravisH

Gold Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2014
Messages
2,928
Going through the 'safe' and discovered a long forgotten item - a BK10 blank.

Years ago I came across a BK10 blank and thought "why not?!" Well, after mod'ing and restoring a few BK's, I came to the conclusion that a full knife build was beyond me and my resources.

I'm guessing it's a Camillus. Specs: 0.188" thick, 11.7 oz, just shy of 11" overall

So ... what to do with it now? Paperweight?

Maybe one of our Beckerhead 'smithies would like a shot at it?
BK16XL? BK62XL? Mini BK7?

20201122_174134.jpg
 

daizee

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Dec 30, 2009
Messages
10,024
Going through the 'safe' and discovered a long forgotten item - a BK10 blank.

Years ago I came across a BK10 blank and thought "why not?!" Well, after mod'ing and restoring a few BK's, I came to the conclusion that a full knife build was beyond me and my resources.

I'm guessing it's a Camillus. Specs: 0.188" thick, 11.7 oz, just shy of 11" overall

So ... what to do with it now? Paperweight?

Maybe one of our Beckerhead 'smithies would like a shot at it?
BK16XL? BK62XL? Mini BK7?

WOW, cool.
Is it already hard?
I mean... all it needs is grinds, maybe heat, then bolt the dang handles on.
I didn't think the camillus blades had the cut-outs in the handles, or was that just the BK2?

If it's soft.... lengthen the clip, FFG the bevels, taper the tang.
Oh, and countersink the bolt/lanyard-holes, chamfer the cut-outs and the sharpening notch all to reduce stress risers.

"Lightweight" TEOTWAWKI belt/pack knife.
 
Last edited:

TravisH

Gold Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2014
Messages
2,928
WOW, cool.
Is it already hard?
I mean... all it needs is grinds, maybe heat, then bolt the dang handles on.
I didn't think the camillus blades had the cut-outs in the handles, or was that just the BK2?

If it's soft.... lengthen the clip, FFG the bevels, taper the tang.
Oh, and countersink the bolt/lanyard-holes, chamfer the cut-outs and the sharpening notch all to reduce stress risers.

"Lightweight" TEOTWAWKI belt/pack knife.
Hard or soft, I can't tell. Like I said, it's beyond my skill level and resources. :(

I would if I could but I can't so I won't. :D

Daizee, would you like to try it? Anyone else?
 

Crag the Brewer

Gold Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2018
Messages
1,135
Hard or soft, I can't tell. Like I said, it's beyond my skill level and resources. :(

I would if I could but I can't so I won't. :D

Daizee, would you like to try it? Anyone else?

If a file bites into the steel and makes shavings, it's soft.

If the file Sings across, with no metal filings, it's hard.

All the difficult work has been done already.
I think it would be a Good learning experience for you to try out, and learn some new skills. It's very doable.
Somebody shouldn't take that from you....just try it.
 

David Mary

Moderator
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Jul 23, 2015
Messages
2,839
Hi Travis. What a cool find! I would do a lot of what Daizee recommended, can be done hard or soft. I am in Canada, and have done a few regrinds and mod jobs for American customers. Feel free to shoot me a message if you decide not to do it yourself, but want someone to get it into finished knife condition for you.
 

daizee

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Dec 30, 2009
Messages
10,024
Yeah, I think it would be easier to work on soft.
Grind the bevels most or even all of the way (at these knives' thicknesses) and then harden.

You can test it with a file - test at the edge, that way if you mark it up, it will get ground away anyway. You can also take another knife and try to carve it there. If it's hard it won't bite (don't hurt your other knife). If it's soft you'll be able to carve metal right off it.

I might be willing to give it a go (modulo a million other projects).
 
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