Whats a snail trail? and the explanation . . .

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expidia1

expidia1

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Thought a posters response in a spyderco forum I just read was too funny, so I'm passing it on to other newer memebers like myself.

As I continue to buy knives here I was seeing the "snail trail" reference in some descriptions.
The picture of receiving a slimely knife in the mail went through my head ;)

So I googled it and someone in that forum responded with "its the light scratches one might see on a knife that was in your pocket left from keys or coins especially on handles with matte finishes". And they posted a picture. So now I know! And of course it makes sense to note that on sales because scratches on a represented "like new" knife can detract from its value and aesthetics when I go to start selling from my collection.

I have a Sebenza 21 being delivered today from a purchase I made here a few days ago. So why I was laughing it was from the next post when he responded "Im pretty sure a snail trail is the route the delivery person takes "on the day they are delivering MY KNIFE"

Come on now . . . you have to admit . . . Dats funny :D
 
I don’t think “snail trail” on a knife means scratches. I’ve only ever heard the term to refer to uncoated titanium handled knives. Ti forms a very thin layer of semi permanent oxide upon exposure to the air. The trails refer to non uniform transition of the metal handle material, whether due to protection by skin oils or other.
And your second definition is totally true as well.
 
"Snail trails" are telltale drag marks in a blasted titanium finish. Sometimes they happen from incidental contact with keys or change in your pocket.

Most often they occur when your Torx bit slips out of the pivot screw while disassembling your new CHK knife to sand down the washers with intent to make it "flick".
 
Yonose said:
I don’t think “snail trail” on a knife means scratches. I’ve only ever heard the term to refer to uncoated titanium handled knives. Ti forms a very thin layer of semi permanent oxide upon exposure to the air. The trails refer to non uniform transition of the metal handle material, whether due to protection by skin oils or other.
And your second definition is totally true as well.
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thx for that explanation. makes more sense as knives are gonna get scratched up as a user.
Is the subenza i have arriving today “a coated” finish?
 
Yonose said:
I don’t think “snail trail” on a knife means scratches. I’ve only ever heard the term to refer to uncoated titanium handled knives. Ti forms a very thin layer of semi permanent oxide upon exposure to the air. The trails refer to non uniform transition of the metal handle material, whether due to protection by skin oils or other.
And your second definition is totally true as well.
Click to expand...

Wait...if his first definition is wrong, how is his second "true as well"?
 
expidia1 said:
thx for that explanation. makes more sense as knives are gonna get scratched up as a user.
Is the subenza i have arriving today “a coated” finish?
Click to expand...
Did you buy the coated version or the un-coated version. If you give a link to the sale thread, somebody could probably help you out.
 
As far as I know, Sebenzas are not coated. It is just a mate finish created by sandblasting the TI.
 
expidia1 said:
thx for that explanation. makes more sense as knives are gonna get scratched up as a user.
Is the subenza i have arriving today “a coated” finish?
Click to expand...
Bead blast finish-unless polished
Snail Trails are the rub marks on the bead blast finish rather then actual scratches
 
Hackenslash said:
"Snail trails" are telltale drag marks in a blasted titanium finish. Sometimes they happen from incidental contact with keys or change in your pocket.

Most often they occur when your Torx bit slips out of the pivot screw while disassembling your new CHK knife to sand down the washers with intent to make it "flick".
Click to expand...

thx for that response. i probably wont sand them down as I said before as i did not know how CHK’s were designed to be operated as they do. since its difficult for many of us to handle one before we buy one. there is so much hype here that the CRK’s garner in various threads that I figured Id just jump in when I picked up the small one two weeks ago. Now that ive watched vids i can live with its hydraulic nature. i have stiff joints and was surprised just how stiff the small one was. So I sent it in for a spa treatment and I also couldnt get the blade centered. if i tightened the pivot screw to center it, the tightness got even worse. hence the reason their rep thought it to be a pinched washer. they also said it should not be operating like this and making the screws tight should not affect the action. i was not the one who started the subenza flick thread. i was commenting in it because of my stiff joints i too wanted to get the action a little loser without waiting years for it to break in. Nice thing about CRK is if I do sand the washers in the future, i can always send it back to them for new washers (since they dont send us washers alone) and they will sharpen the back to a factory edge. the 21 thats coming today has already been sharpened. so im excited to be putting on my own mirrored wicked edge on it. I have plenty of other folders to use as cutters.
Great forum. And its great to be able to learn info from knowledgeable members such as yourself!
 
marcinek said:
Shouldn't you have reseached that before buying it?

And it's "Sebenza." ESS EEE BEE enza.

Or is your constant "subenza" spelling another thing we have to admit "dat's funny"? Not getting it. :confused:
Click to expand...
its the way my siri types it out sometimes. shoot apple not me :)
 
expidia1 said:
thx for that response. i probably wont sand them down as I said before as i did not know how CHK’s were designed to be operated as they do. since its difficult for many of us to handle one before we buy one. there is so much hype here that the CRK’s garner in various threads that I figured Id just jump in when I picked up the small one two weeks ago. Now that ive watched vids i can live with its hydraulic nature. i have stiff joints and was surprised just how stiff the small one was. So I sent it in for a spa treatment and I also couldnt get the blade centered. if i tightened the pivot screw to center it, the tightness got even worse. hence the reason their rep thought it to be a pinched washer. they also said it should not be operating like this and making the screws tight should not affect the action. i was not the one who started the subenza flick thread. i was commenting in it because of my stiff joints i too wanted to get the action a little loser without waiting years for it to break in. Nice thing about CRK is if I do sand the washers in the future, i can always send it back to them for new washers (since they dont send us washers alone) and they will sharpen the back to a factory edge. the 21 thats coming today has already been sharpened. so im excited to be putting on my own mirrored wicked edge on it. I have plenty of other folders to use as cutters.
Great forum. And its great to be able to learn info from knowledgeable members such as yourself!
Click to expand...
I have no idea what you're talking about. I gave the the first, most succinct and most accurate definition of a snail trail...
Hackenslash said:
"Snail trails" are telltale drag marks in a blasted titanium finish. Sometimes they happen from incidental contact with keys or change in your pocket.
Click to expand...
They happen to all knives with use and have no effect on the functionality.
 
Hackenslash said:
Did you buy the coated version or the un-coated version. If you give a link to the sale thread, somebody could probably help you out.
Click to expand...
thanks. here is the link: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/ti-mk4-dauntless.1566894/#post-17974936

the pics are gone now but it does say “polished” now that ive reread it. price was $425. i know i over paid because a new one is $450 so i figured maybe that demascus clip and the other backing which is included will offset the price I paid a little. like i said what piqued my interest was it was already sharpened by his KME system. so i can now put my own edge on it. and use it as an EDC. if i bought it new then i would of course not alter it to resell. as the one coming today is not the one i want. what i want is to snag the gold hex 21 version. that to me is a classier looking version of a many years old Sebenza iconic design.
(did y'all catch the “e” after the s this time)?
 
Moved the inappropriate post to the back end. We should know better to post something like that.

Now, those that have quoted that post, please edit that crapola out.
 
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