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What's going on with the Mora 2/0 Classic supply?
- Thread starter KHarper
- Start date
Hey, I'll buy that 2/0 off you, if you are really looking to gt rid of it. That was the whole point of this thread originally. I can't find one anywhere else, and I'm annoyed because I've been putting off buying a spare for months now, assuming I'd always be able to find such a cheap, common knife somewhere no matter what happened.
Another option would be to buy a Mora Wood Carving Jr 73/164. Its easy enough to knock the blade out of the handle, remove the guard and put it all back together
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- Mar 8, 2011
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Here is a few of my old Mora's, top two marked Frosts & the lower one E.Jonsson.
It's debatable how to describe the coatings, the centre one shows the wood grain through what looks like red tinted varnish.
So many different companies made Mora knives (I have another marked K.J.Eriksson) there was probably a multitude of paints & stains over the models & years.
Edit- I've just re-read post 40 by
Camillus
, Mora states in the past "They were stained red before final varnishing to make them look more exclusive", so I assume the middle one above is that, red stain & varnish...... maybe.
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How do you knock the blade out? Mine looks like it's got some sort of snap ring or something on the end of the tang holding it on the handle.
I guess I knew that too, but it slipped my mind. I haven't been here too long.Tape up the blade (always!)
Place in a vice tip down, with a firm but not tight grip on the blade but so the ferrule is on top of the vice
get a cardboard box full of news paper and place inline with the blades travel
make sure nothing but the box is below the blade - get a flat head punch smaller than the snap ring/collar and hammer and give it a few taps
it'll come out
Thanks, I just ordered one. I'll give it a try. I'm curious to see how they hollow the inside of the handle, if it's a round hole and round tang, or both square, or some combination. I've finally ordered a bare blade and carving a handle for it, but I'm not sure I have the means to drill a proper hole. If it's round I can manage, but not if it's square, and I'm not sure a square tang will fit snuggly enough in a round hole.
UPDATE: Apparently I just found a place that still has a few 2/0s in stock (at least they don't say they are out of stock). I guess I stopped looking too soon. I already ordered the wood carving knife, so I'll still give that one a try. That's why I mostly use the 2/0 for anyway; the scandi works great for carving, but not so great for other tasks. So in one day I ordered a mora youth carving knife, a 2/0 blade and now a whole 2/0. On the bright side, I should have spares and parts to last quite a while between my 3 handles and 4 blades! Hopefully they are all roughly interchangeable.
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- Feb 18, 2014
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He was replying to my saying I wanted to see how a Mora was assembled, I assume.
Luckily my hands are relatively small, although I only use mine for light tasks and a neck knife. For anything that takes serious cutting it's not big enough; not enough blade, and not enough handle. And of course the scandi grind is best for carving wood. For actually slicing and cutting it is inferior to a flat grind. I find it a lot harder to cut straight. But for carving wood, and by extension, peeling potatoes, it works better than a flat grind. And yes, the sheath is basically worthless. You are more or less just buying a knife, nothing else, but they include the sheath for sales purposes I guess, so they can advertise it as "includes sheath". And it does, if you really can't get a better one.
So here's the new Mora 2/0 blade.
Does anyone know where I can find a retaining ring to fit this? I guess they figure if you're ordering plain blades you have the knowledge and resources to do it yourself. Or can you suggest another way of fixing it into a handle? I've never done this before. I'm sure I could just epoxy it, but I'd rather do it the "old fashioned way".
I can just reuse my old 2/0s handle, but I'd like to keep it for carving and stuff; I like the rounded tip for some purposes. Also, what is the semi-circular cutout in the tang for? Is that an alternative way of retaining it in a handle when they use the same blade for other models of knife, or is that just part of the manufacturing process, to hold the blade in place when its being ground, etc?
Here's the tang, and my old 2/0 next to the new one to show how much it has worn down from sharpening. I knew it had worn but I didn't realize quite how much. Most of the material missing from the tip was from dropping it on concrete...twice...and like most knifes it seems to be perfectly designed to always fall point down except when you want it too.
Does anyone know where I can find a retaining ring to fit this? I guess they figure if you're ordering plain blades you have the knowledge and resources to do it yourself. Or can you suggest another way of fixing it into a handle? I've never done this before. I'm sure I could just epoxy it, but I'd rather do it the "old fashioned way".
I can just reuse my old 2/0s handle, but I'd like to keep it for carving and stuff; I like the rounded tip for some purposes. Also, what is the semi-circular cutout in the tang for? Is that an alternative way of retaining it in a handle when they use the same blade for other models of knife, or is that just part of the manufacturing process, to hold the blade in place when its being ground, etc?
Here's the tang, and my old 2/0 next to the new one to show how much it has worn down from sharpening. I knew it had worn but I didn't realize quite how much. Most of the material missing from the tip was from dropping it on concrete...twice...and like most knifes it seems to be perfectly designed to always fall point down except when you want it too.
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So what are your plans for the youth knife since your flush in the 2/0 department? Also, I found out today via Redbeard that the knives are not as similar as I thought.
"Both of these knives are extremely similar to the eye in size. Blade and
handle are almost the same length. The only major difference other than
what you mentioned is that the JR is not as heavy as the 2/0. The handle
weight is less and the blade thickness is a little less. 2/0 is .098 and
the JR is .080 You can tell the difference in weight but as far as size,
quite similar. I hope this helps coming from someone who has had both in
hand side by side.
Best,
Redbeard"
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Interesting. I noticed that the blades weren't exactly identical, but I thought maybe it was just variances in the grinding process, since it was mostly in the tip shape. I hadn't even noticed that it was thinner; if there is any difference I can't tell by looking at them next to each other, so it's pretty minimal. I basically converted my carver into a 2/0 by removing the guard; they are now functionally identical. Which is good because I'm not sure I actually found a 2/0 or not; I ordered one from a site that advertised them, but I haven't even got an invoice yet or any kind of acknowledgement. So I'm glad I got this one anyway, even if that never arrived.
I just finished removing the hand guard and sanding and seasoning the handle. Functionally it's identical to a Mora 2/0, although it's interesting that he says that about the handle being 'lighter'. It does seem to weigh less, maybe a different, softer type of wood. I split it slightly when I was tapping the blade back into the handle, but I assumed that was just because it was weakened by the heating when I seasoned it in the oven, and it dried out. I think it'll be okay with the ferrule to reinforce it and a little glue. But it may also be weaker wood, meant for lighter duty. Not sure why, although it seems maybe more grippy and absorbent, to help give a good grasp when carving. I'm happy with it. Thanks again to Corso for recommending it. I would have been griping about it in the back of my head for a year, I'm sure.
So here's the disassembled Junior, the spare 2/0 blade and the old 2/0 for comparison. Note the slightly different length and tip shape.
And here's the friction clip and tang, for those who are wondering what it looks like. Quite easy to remove, although I ended up just pulling the whole clip and tang out together and then removing it. It didn't seem to damage the handle, strangely. It seems to just make it big enough that it's difficult to pull out and cannot fall out accidentally, but isn't positively secured. Most of the actual contact seems to come from where the tapered shoulder of the tang is wedged into the top of the handle, which isn't the strongest setup. The rest is just kind of there for backup, as far as I can tell.
Here's the crappy sheath it came with. I was wondering how they accommodated the guard; turns out they just crudely hack a piece out of a standard cheap plastic sheath, actually making it worse than it already was. Quite an achievement in this case.
Now that you mentioned it, the difference in thickness seems to show in this photo, although it might be an illusion, as well as the length. I hadn't noticed before.
And here's the ferrule; I wondered why the hole looked like it was punched with a can opener. It's because apparently it was, complete with ragged metal flap hanging down inside. It works, but it seems like it could be done a little better without making it much more expensive. Perhaps that's part of the upgrading they are doing the the Next Generation Classics.
Completed handle, ready to assemble, next to old Mora 2/0. Again, this is the Mora 73/164 with original blade; i did not swap it for the spare 2/0 blade, although I considered it. They looked basically identical, so I decided to just stick with the blade that came with the handle. I'll try to make a handle for the other one maybe.
Top: Morakniv 73/164 sans finger-guard and with seasoned handle, bottom, my worn Morakniv 2/0 with a ground-down spine for fire-starting and a well-worn tip. So you see, they are pretty close.
I made my Handles in halves, with a center piece the same thickness as the tang, and it's center cut out to fit the tang. I glued the center section to one half of the handle. Then I clamped the blade tang into it and drilled a 1/8 in hole through that half, in that tang notch. Then I clamped the second handle half to the first and drilled the hole through it also. Next I glued everything together, with the blade tang in place and a piece of brass rod through the hole to keep everything lined up; but taking care not to glue the tang or brass rod in. After the glued dried I removed the rod and blade. Then I shaped the handle to my liking with rasps and sand paper. Then filled the hole with thickened epoxy, and inserted blade and brass rod. After the epoxy cured I filed the rod smooth and cleaned up the handle with sand paper, and then applied a finish. I have done several, they come out looking like this.
Neither of these is a 2/0, but the tang on all the Mora blades is pretty similar. It's probably not the way you want to do it, but maybe it will help you with some ideas.
O.B.
I was thinking something similar maybe. These do have the notch that could be used to retain the blade; I'm not sure if they are just included to locate the pieces while machining, or if there are models that use them to retain the blades, but it'd work for that. The 2/0 is a little different ffrom other Moras because it's full tang, but I think from the pictures on the package that it's the same as the others other than that, i.e. the semi-circular notch. Probably the tang would have just been too small if they had tried to make it a half tang.
I was thinking of something like the way the 2/0 is built, which is basically a thicker hole drilled nearer the blade, and a smaller hole sized to fit the tang snugly at the base; the widening part of the tang wedges into the larger hole to make it firm, maybe I could carve it out a little to make sure it fits well, and then use a pin of some sort through the handle and the notch to retain it. Or I could probably make a retaining clip, if I got the right piece of metal. The hardest part would be trying to bend it into a circle. I'd need some kind of...mandrel, I guess. And some way of holding it firmly and directing the force. It may not be possible with my limited tools. I do have some brass rods though.