What's the cheapest way to etch a maker's mark?

jaegar

jaegar

Joined
Nov 5, 2004
Messages
280
Howdy,

I've seen multiple threads over the years regarding etching a maker's mark. While some were very helpful, others just served to make me more confused. Basically, I'd like to know the easiest/cheapest way to etch in a professional looking makers mark. I don't remember if it depends on steel, but for conversation's sake, let's say D2.

I have ferric chloride, but I'm not real sure on how to etch a real 'sharp' mark with it.

Thanks!
 
The cheapest way to mark a blade that I have found is to electro chemical etch it. Now you CAN buy an electro etcher for about 179$ wich is WAY TOOO MUCH money for what it really is. MAKE YOUR OWN CHEAPH ere is a list of things you will need:
1) a DC transformer(this can be obtained by sacraficing a power transformer like the one for a cell phone charger But the best is a model train transformer(18v dc@3a?)or 12v lantern battery. DO NOPT USE A CAR BATTERY these put out Too much amps
2)a 2'-3' peice of lampcord/speaker wire if useing the model train transformer
3) aligator clips one for each leed
4)a peice of Stainless steel plate this can be anything really but SS doesnt rust or corode much. about the size of a 50 cent peice will do
5)etching solution.(this can be bought but I experimented on scap ATS-34 and found this equasion to work best.:12 parts boiling water(to desolve tsp and salt)4 parts TSP(trisodiumphosephate)(dishwaser soap works well)4 parts salt(yup sodium chloride)
6) felt cloth
7)masking vinal ( my first knives were etched using an electrical tape mask) I now use a vynal sticker from a local sighn?graphics shop 25$ bought me 30 or so stickers and they were a pro job of cutting
OK now the instructions. First hook the wires up to the transformer and Stainless plate then wrap the plate in the felt. The felt will act as a sponge and keep the etching solution in contact with the work. next prepare the blade by masking off ALL the areas you don't want etched. Next apply the ground clamp to the blade wet the felt and rub the blade with the positively carged SS plate. this method(train transformer@18v dcand 3a?) will etch about 0.030" in ATS-34,D2,5160, 440C, in about 5 to 10 min. Check your work and wipe away the acumulating sludge that forms. Make shure that you don't lift the masking while working or you will not have a clean edge. Also deep etchings are more likely to eat under the protective maskings.
I hope this was helpfull for you.:)
 
VERY helpful...I guess the only thing I'll need to find is a power transformer with about 18v DC @ 3 amps? What other voltages/amperages will work?

Also, could you describe the masking vinyl in more detail?

~Brian
 
Cheapest?

On a damascus blade, where the whole thing will be etched anyway, just use a very fine paintbrush and some nail polish to paint your mark on the ricasso. Then etch the blade and remove the nail polish, leaving your mark bright where the resist was.

On a straight carbon knife, take a good sized piece of packing tape, and use an exacto knife to cut out your logo. Apply the tape to the ricasso, and paint on some acid. Remove the tape when done.

I think it goes without saying both of these methods will probably be best on a logo design that's very simple, and will only turn out as good as your painting/stencil making skills. And if that's the case, you might wanna just make an actual stamp from some scrap blade steel. For detailed or complex designs, a good etching machine will probably be better.


I don't know if he still makes them, but a number of years ago I bought my etching machine (that he made) from Alex Daniels for $100. Might give him a call if you don't feel like making one yourself.
 
If you want the absolute cheapest way to mark your blades, how about an acid etching pen. You can buy one from Enco for $9.98. I have one, but I haven't actually tried it yet.
6764249-11.jpg

​

Personally, I would watch eBay for a real etching machine. You pick them up cheaply if you are patient. (I just bought a Lectro-Etch V-10A for $9.99 plus shipping, so it can be done.)
 
I recently built a electro etcher, which works great, but before that, I etched with beeswax and a scribe. I heated the entire blade up in boiling water (212 degrees, so not enough to hurt the temper) and with a piece of solid beeswax (sometimes mixed with parrafin) i would put a real thin layer of wax on the blade. I cooled it quickly by applying an ice cube to the unwaxed side. Then I would take my scribe and scratch in my logo. I then built a little dam around the logo with melted wax and a watercolor paintbrush. Apply the ferric chloride and wait 10 minutes. your etch should be nice and clear.
here is a pic of it

attachment.php
 
Thanks for the help guys!

Chris Meyer - I'd be really interested on how well that pen works...

Derkins - I'd heard of that method, but I was afraid the beeswax/nailpolish would 'flake' too much. Did you have that problem? I like your mark ;).

If flaking isn't too bad, then I think I'll go with that method. It's one of the least complicated out of my options.

~Brian
 
As and you shall receive...

Here's a picture of the test, two etches on either side of a hardened piece of 1084. On the left is the acid etching pen, on the right is an electro-chemical etch using a stencil made for me by Marking Methods. The pen mark has a slight brownish tinge and the etch is closer to black. While the pen mark seems to be permanent, I think the electro-chemical etch is much more professional looking. However, the pen should work great for marking all my left over pieces of steel before I forget what they are.

Two-etches.jpg
 
The beeswax does not flake at all, it is actually kind of sticky, so I added a little parrafin to stiffen it up a bit. I was finding that without the parrafin, even after I scribed it, sometimes there must have been a little layer of beeswax left on the steel, so there would be places on the logo where the ferric chloride didnt bite.
 
i do sorta like the method in mike p's post, but instead of a power supply i use a 9v battery, one of the small square ones about an inch big. it works great. i use nail polish instead of the stencil but it sure looks like it would do a better job.
brett
 
I got bored today and started playing with Glenn Moulton's idea and thanks Traxx for the link,
really works well, I just need to get some professional stencils. (Can you tell I got in a hurry?) I used a piece of packing tape with the a B and an L cut into it then remove the small pieces and leave the steel covered with the rest, pull the tape off when you're done. My solution was just vinegar and salt and dab it on and hold it and it burn right in, it goes deep! I have a 12v charger from something (I have a drawer full from throwing away stuff but always keeping the power supply.) Positive goes to the steel and negative to the q-tip. Super simple! I think the whole setup costs about 2 cents for the q-tip and about a penny for the salt and vinegar! Thanks Glenn and Traxx! You saved me about a bunch of money. Does anyone know where to have the stencils made?

IMG_3949_1.jpg

IMG_3952_1.jpg
 
any signwriting shop can do them, Ask if they used CAD-CAM and have a computer do the cutting.
One man by hand can do a wonderful job on a one off, but for a stack of them, a computer cutter keeps them all consistant.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top