Where to buy Flitz polish and stropping compound in 1-2 stops?

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Sep 16, 2007
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107
Should I stop by Home Depot/Lowe's? Autozone? Wal-mart? What store will carry both?

I want to buy some Flitz metal polish, as well as a stropping compound I can rub into an old leather belt to strop with. Recommendations for a good stropping compound are welcome, too. Thanks :)
 
Ace hardware carries it in CA. True Value does as well. Wal Mart states that it does, or so does the Flitz web site, but my Wal Marts close do not carry it. You may also look at Wood Working stores like Wood Craft, Rocklers or something similar. They carry lots of sharpening equipment and diamond pastes on line or in store for purchase. There stuff is usually good.
 
I went to the local Ace Hardware and picked up some Dico Stainless buffing compound and some Flitz Polish. The Dico actually works really well--after peeling back some of the cardboard, I rubbed it into the belt like a big stick of chalk and then stropped a couple knives which got noticeably sharper :)

I was no impressed with the Fitz Polish, however. My knives look about the same. I was hoping it would remove some very light, microscopic scratches--and it did not. I suppose it would be good for older, rusty knives, but I was just hoping to get shinier, smoother knives.
 
Hubcap polish works pretty good and usually smells better than Flitz.

The problem with Flitz or hubcap polish (I use Meguiar's) is their abrasive particles are so fine that they don't begin to remove deep scratches. After all, the scratch stays in place and everything above it gets removed.
 
Just an FYI , I tried finding some more Flitz the week before last , home depot , lowes , bed bath and beyond , etc etc... nobody had it .
My local indy hardware store had Flitz stainless steel polish but its not the same stuff , so I settled for a tube of Wenol , never heard of it before.
http://www.wenol.com/
After using it on various knives and plastics , I find that it does the same job as Flitz , only costs less , smells the same too ( if thats a selling point :D) also it's made in Germany , the Germans know their polishes.. :)
 
Not all companies consider micro-fine abrasive addictives in their polishes to be "abrasive." Adam's used 0.3 micron aluminum oxide in their #2 Metal Polish while claiming it was non-abrasive. I've seen micrographs of edges made with Flitz on a strop, so maybe non-abrasive is non-abrasive or maybe it's just non 80 grit abrasive.
 
Flitz, and any polishing compound has abrasive-regardless of what they say. You can't polish without abrading.
Flitz and Simichrome work well for stropping. Let them dry after application, before you strop.
 
I complain about the smell of Flitz, but enjoy the smell of Ballistol - another fine, German product for knife and gun owners.
 
Hey knifeknut1013,

What's another word for solid polishing powder? The stuff that makes up 30% of Flitz by weight?

CAS 1344-28-1 is calcinated alumina. It's an abrasive.

But are they truly "liers" for stating a product that is 30% abrasive by weight is non-abrasive?

I'm more surprised that it's considered non-toxic.
 
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Everything I have ever read about flitz led me to believe that it was a chemical cleaner, kinda suprising when I looked at the MSDS.

But are they truly "liers" for stating a product that is 30% abrasive by weight is non-abrasive?


Yes, my DMT paste is only 1%.
 
Leather belts can work but its usually the wrong type of leather.

When using a stropping compound, the type of leather makes little difference (re: veggie tanned or oil/Chrome tanned)

Tooling leather (vegetable tanned leather) retains natural silicates which make for a very, very effective strop with no extra abrasive added. That's why good strops are always made from vegetable tanned leather. But as soon as you put any type of compound on it, you've covered up the natural silicates and are using the abrasives in the compound to do your stropping. It won't make a difference if you use chrome tanned, veggie tanned, oil tanned, or even your jeans if you are applying some sort of compound to it. The silicates will no longer be on the surface in contact with the metal.

That being said, there WILL be a difference when using a soft leather or hard, smooth side or rough, but that difference will be the same for any type of surface that you use with compound.
 
so what brand of leather strops do you guys like to use that comes already read to go and where do you purchase them??
 
so what brand of leather strops do you guys like to use that comes already read to go and where do you purchase them??

There are plenty of on-line sites selling strops. The real question is; what is it that you want to sharpen? A straight razor will be best served using a free-hanging Russian Leather strop. If you can't find Russian Leather (or don't want to spend a month's pay buying one,) any good commercially made razor strop will work well. The only thing you apply to them would be strop conditioner (leather conditioner) rather than abrasive stropping compound. You can find a nice selection of these at;
http://www.classicshaving.com/Home.html (perhaps the best quality)
http://www.thewellshavedgentleman.com/
http://www.knifecenter.com (probably the best for price)

For stropping knives (rather than razors) with just a good quality leather strop, you would do well to use a strop that is mounted on a solid platform such as a wooden or plastic base. As long as the strop is made from good quality vegetable tanned hide and is large enough for the job at hand, all work equally well.

I have quite a few that were sold by 'HandAmerican.' These are high quality strops that don't really require compound. Note the emphasis on the word 'require.' I'll get back to that in a minute.

Texas Knifemakers Supply and Jantz Knife makers Supply both sell good quality leather that you can use to make your own strops, as does Tandy Leather. There is no real trick to making a strop that will be used with stropping compound. I like mine to be 3"-4" wide and about 10"-12" long. I can buy a one-square-foot piece of vegetable tanned cowhide from Jantz and cut it into three very serviceable strops. I use contact cement to glue them down onto 1" thick pine boards and I have three good strops for less than $12 USD.

Back to that 'require' word. Natural cowhide and horsehide has silicates in it. This is an abrasive and is what improves the edge when you strop a knife on it. The better the quality of the leather, the way that it is 'handled' when being prepared for use as a strop, etc., the better the stropping ability of the finished product. But if you use any old smooth leather and apply a coating of an abrasive compound to it, you have a device that can be used to improve the edge of a blade. If you have several different devices, each with an increasingly finer abrasive, you have a method to really bring an edge closer and closer to perfection.

Another question; what geometry are you after? Do you want a beveled edge or a convex edge? For a beveled edge you want to use a thinner hard smooth leather surface. For a convex edge a softer, thicker rough leather works better.

Of course, that leads to the question; how sharp do you want/need your edge to be? Those of us here who do it as a hobby/mental illness will take an edge waaaaaay sharper than any barber ever took his razor to use on a customer. Barber's don't usually use any compound. They use a bare strop. With the geometry of a straight razor that enough to get the edge shaving sharp. With a hunting knife in the hands of a knife knut ('a' knife knut, not 'the' knifeknut, :) ) different levels of abrasive will be required.

Everybody has their own opinion as to which compounds to use too. Some say red, some say black, some say white, some say green, some say diamonds, some say rust. (The red stuff is rust... Iron oxide... red rouge) I wouldn't be surprise to hear of someone using chunky peanut butter! Just remember this; most barbers don't use anything. Most of us crazies use everything.

So, start by asking yourself what it is that you want to sharpen. How sharp do you need it to be? How sharp do you want it to be? How much money do you want to spend on strops? Do you want to use compounds? Which ones? Do you want to buy a strop or make one? Answer these and it should give you some idea of how you'll be spending the next year's rent money. :D


Stitchawl
 
There are plenty of on-line sites selling strops. The real question is; what is it that you want to sharpen? A straight razor will be best served using a free-hanging Russian Leather strop. If you can't find Russian Leather (or don't want to spend a month's pay buying one,) any good commercially made razor strop will work well. The only thing you apply to them would be strop conditioner (leather conditioner) rather than abrasive stropping compound. You can find a nice selection of these at;
http://www.classicshaving.com/Home.html (perhaps the best quality)
http://www.thewellshavedgentleman.com/
http://www.knifecenter.com (probably the best for price)

For stropping knives (rather than razors) with just a good quality leather strop, you would do well to use a strop that is mounted on a solid platform such as a wooden or plastic base. As long as the strop is made from good quality vegetable tanned hide and is large enough for the job at hand, all work equally well.

I have quite a few that were sold by 'HandAmerican.' These are high quality strops that don't really require compound. Note the emphasis on the word 'require.' I'll get back to that in a minute.

Texas Knifemakers Supply and Jantz Knife makers Supply both sell good quality leather that you can use to make your own strops, as does Tandy Leather. There is no real trick to making a strop that will be used with stropping compound. I like mine to be 3"-4" wide and about 10"-12" long. I can buy a one-square-foot piece of vegetable tanned cowhide from Jantz and cut it into three very serviceable strops. I use contact cement to glue them down onto 1" thick pine boards and I have three good strops for less than $12 USD.

Back to that 'require' word. Natural cowhide and horsehide has silicates in it. This is an abrasive and is what improves the edge when you strop a knife on it. The better the quality of the leather, the way that it is 'handled' when being prepared for use as a strop, etc., the better the stropping ability of the finished product. But if you use any old smooth leather and apply a coating of an abrasive compound to it, you have a device that can be used to improve the edge of a blade. If you have several different devices, each with an increasingly finer abrasive, you have a method to really bring an edge closer and closer to perfection.

Another question; what geometry are you after? Do you want a beveled edge or a convex edge? For a beveled edge you want to use a thinner hard smooth leather surface. For a convex edge a softer, thicker rough leather works better.

Of course, that leads to the question; how sharp do you want/need your edge to be? Those of us here who do it as a hobby/mental illness will take an edge waaaaaay sharper than any barber ever took his razor to use on a customer. Barber's don't usually use any compound. They use a bare strop. With the geometry of a straight razor that enough to get the edge shaving sharp. With a hunting knife in the hands of a knife knut ('a' knife knut, not 'the' knifeknut, :) ) different levels of abrasive will be required.

Everybody has their own opinion as to which compounds to use too. Some say red, some say black, some say white, some say green, some say diamonds, some say rust. (The red stuff is rust... Iron oxide... red rouge) I wouldn't be surprise to hear of someone using chunky peanut butter! Just remember this; most barbers don't use anything. Most of us crazies use everything.

So, start by asking yourself what it is that you want to sharpen. How sharp do you need it to be? How sharp do you want it to be? How much money do you want to spend on strops? Do you want to use compounds? Which ones? Do you want to buy a strop or make one? Answer these and it should give you some idea of how you'll be spending the next year's rent money. :D


Stitchawl

good stuff stitch. thanks a lot.. i just want one to finish up after using a stone or to just touch up on some already sharp knives. thats basically what i want it for. should i go the 12$ home made route or just purchase one already set up for the fine tuning i want? thanks again. as you can tell i am still learning

question, how many strokes on avg do you guys do while stroping even with just an old quality leather belt? do you hold it at the same angle as you would to sharpen it on a stone?
 
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How about, for starters find an old leather belt and then go to the hardwear store and buy a stick of Dico buffing compound. That's what I did recently and it works. :)
 
How about, for starters find an old leather belt and then go to the hardwear store and buy a stick of Dico buffing compound. That's what I did recently and it works. :)

how did you apply the compound to the belt? saturate it? lightly? you are talking to a serious noob when it comes to this stuff :D bear with me here
 
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