Which machete for which conditions (plants), Alternative tools, helper tools.

Nothing wrong with reviving an old thread if you have information to share! I cleared some paths to my usual woodland stomping grounds today because the only way to get there was through five-foot-tall dense grass over boggy ground. Chopping the grass down saved time compared to going around, and provided a barrier between me and the mud. ;)
 
Yeah, bringing back the dead is great (unless it's a zombie:D).

I like Machete Specialists site and although not perfect, this is a good synopsis:

Types of Machetes

For the record, I wish they separated Parang from Golok as I think they are much different in design and use...

The length, design, thickness, weighted-end, belly and handle of a machete or derivative are all dictated by the terrain, foliage and intended use. I have a Valiant Golok and Parang...both are pretty thick but with excellent convex edges. The shorter Parang can almost serve as an axe and excels at harder wood; actually both do, but the designs are quite different.

I'd like to see something like the Machete Specialist info pages, but more geared on matching the style of blade against uses and types of foliage...

ROCK6
 
I have read some great posts with pictures and watched several machete vids.

I have no sense of when you really NEED a machete, for Trail Clearing.
Every picture that I have seen, you do not need a machete to clear a trail.
Though I have read stories that the machete clearing was needed, I did not come
away with an understanding of the specifics of vegetation and alternative paths.

Since I use a number of examples, you could address one or more OR: links to
any articles, threads, youtubes, or magic google words, would be appreciated.

Example 1:
Do you have thick 6 feet tall grass, that you cannot walk though?
Would a Corn knife work for this? Do local stores sell something like this?

Example 2:
Do you have tough vines and/or scrub with insects or thorns that you cannot
maneuver though.

Example 3:
Can you use sticks or other tools to gather vegetation to assist machete usage?
Can you use sticks to push vegetation out of the way altogether?

Example 4:
How often could you walk around the thick vegetation, but decide it is
marginally easier to cut though?


There are a myriad of machete designs to answer your question. Just like axes that split, double bitted axes, and guns of different calibers, each one of these machete designs has a better placement than the other. For North America and the average machete user, an 18" machete is the cat's meow for all purpose usage. If you are a bigger gentlman or have more pasture like areas to process, you may venture out to longer lengths. For myself, as a general rule, the farther up north I go, the shorter and stockier my machete will get.


Example 1:
Do you have thick 6 feet tall grass, that you cannot walk though?
Would a Corn knife work for this? Do local stores sell something like this?
Corn knives work very well in grass situations, and with their longer width they can cut larger soft vegetation well provided you cut near the bottom. 22" latin machetes and other various styles work very well too, and normally a helper stick is used, but good technique is important rather than bludgeoning plants.. I personally use this
http://www.machetespecialists.com/immoma.html


Example 2:
Do you have tough vines and/or scrub with insects or thorns that you cannot
maneuver though.
A good and nimble 16 -18 inch Latin style machete has been the tried and true swamp machete for years and years, especially with Ontario. The ESEE Lite machete, The condor eco-survivor ($10-$15) and other condor machetes would work well for this.


Example 3:
Can you use sticks or other tools to gather vegetation to assist machete usage?
Can you use sticks to push vegetation out of the way altogether?

Many Latin Americans use a helper stick to move brush out of the way. Before Spanish conquistadors came to Latin and South America, I reckon they either used sticks to beat vegetation out of the way (some may have been sharpened to help expedite the process) or just went around the thick stuff. The natives saw the swords for extremely useful tools, not just for combat, and traded with for them, one way or another.


here is a video from my personal files:





Example 4:

JOE RANT MODE:
Some people are lazy, and don't want to go into thick vegetation. Sometimes it may be a thicket one could get around, other times it may not be so lucky. Rhododendron Hells are a good example of a thicket that would wear a machete user out. It takes a while to get through them, and many a times I have said "forget it" and sheathed the machete, got on all fours and sped through them quadruped style. You probably wouldn't want to do that in some places like Peru where everything has thorns. Other times, You may have an indirect path of walking, and you may zig zag left and right before getting to your final destination, but the time put in ziggyzagging is less than macheteing through a spot. vid to follow
 
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We use them down south for clearing around out tree stands for deer hunting. I like the long blade machete for grass and light stuff and a short stiffer bladed model for limbs and small trees.
 
Here are some situations where it was not advisable to go around the thickets, for one reason or another. 1. Was a swampy jungle area and that was the dry land portion.2 was a pepper bush thicket, we were trying to make a new trail through it. 3 was a large abandoned grape vineyard. I eventually had to go back and put a pair of briar proof pants on to make a dent in it.

click on the link

 
I use a machete year round in East Texas. Trails grow up very fast and frequently have briars and thorn trees. The cedar trees around the trails will shoot their branches over the trails and they have to be cut back as well. These are mostly 4 wheeler trails on hunting grounds. I leave an Ontario 22" machete on my 4 wheeler and that extra reach really helps. This is the only application where I like a machete over 18". This last weekend I was driving through the woods to get to a creek to check the condition of a duck blind. A tree had fallen acros the trail and everything outside of the actual trail is so thick you cannot drive through it. The Ontario made quick work of the briars and small trees I needed to clear to get around the tree.

For walking trails on our properties we are constantly having to cut and clear briars. These are thick strong briars that you cannot simply push out of the way. They will cut you grab hold and stop you in your tracks. The machete is the best tool for these and an 18" model is great for the length you need to cut them at ground level.

When I am out duck hunting ponds and creeks I often cut brush for camo. I like a more compact version for this application such as a kukri.

In the woods I call home it is a tool that is used quite often.
 
Joe--that last video reminds me I still need to put a nice convex on my Cuma! :D

I live north of Bangor in Maine, and it's pretty rural out here. We have widely variegated terrain, and I never know if I'll need to be mostly cutting grasses or hardwood or something in between. For general use up here I like something around a 20" since it's still maneuverable and not too heavy, but with a nice forward weight. A Condor Viking is usually my go-to piece, though I like to mix it up a bit depending on where and what I'm most likely to encounter. Regardless of pattern a machete of any style would be a boon if I ever got stranded somehow. Even the light ones can chop and the heavy ones can cut grass--just not nearly as well as ones geared to the task specifically. The only time I ever have need for an axe is if I intend to do a lot of dedicated felling and splitting, and a machete can do those too! It just takes a lot longer.
 
The word "bango Maine" keeps reminding me I have like 4 stephen king audio books to finish.
 
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