Why Can't I Get My Axe Shaving Sharp?

Square_peg said:
File, then this:
https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Norton-Utility-File-P119C25.aspx

then the smooth side of this:
https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Norton-Tradesmans-Utility-Stone-P144C25.aspx

then hard black Arkansas stone. At each step remove the scratch pattern from the previous step. Dip the big Nortons in water occasionally. After filing it takes only a few minutes per step. Do it all in the vise. It's FAST!
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Most of my knifes will never see a black arkansas. Seems like it might be a big jump in grits, is that a surgical black?
 
garry3 said:
Seems like it might be a big jump in grits, is that a surgical black?
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I don't know if it's surgical grade. I bought it for a couple bucks at an estate sale. Yeah, it's a bit of a jump. But it removes the scratch pattern from the fine side of the Norton stone quickly. That's all that matters to me. An axe or anything else is damn sharp when it comes off the black Arkansas.
 
The thing is... why do you want to get your axe "shaving sharp"? In order to do that you have to create a thin, weak edge and the tool will no longer be useful for chopping and splitting. If you think about it, would you chop and split with a razor?

I use a diamond sharpener if I want to get an axe really sharp and keep the sharpening angle at 20 degs. each side. That gives the tool a strong, 40 degree bevel that will stand up to "axe" tasks. If I want to shave with a tool, I use a thin-blade sheath knife.
 
I sharpened a knife today so I thought I'd share my process. I touched it up first by using some 220 grit on a block. Then I used a steel (on an axe I use a file) to get it decently sharp. I finished by stropping it. It's not razor sharp, but it slices like a dream.
 
Lenny said:
All right.
I'm doing everything correctly, but still only succeed in getting a beautifully polished yet barely sharp edge.
Is there anybody in the northern NJ area who's good at axe sharpening who would be willing to meet me somewhere and watch what I'm doing and provide instant feedback? There's a case of beer in it for you!!
Conversely, can anybody recommend a good axe sharpening service in northern NJ?
This is driving me nuts. I really want to learn this skill!
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I'm in Nyack NY. My schedule is super full until mid October but I could give you a lesson after that. My Phone # 360.305.6225. Shoot me a text and I might be able to help walk you through it.

If I remember correctly GB axes come in at 61 Rc. That's pretty hard. A file isn't going to work at that hardness. A axe should have a convexed edge but they can be tricky to sharpen. You want to make sure that you keep the contour mild and not let it get to rounded. They next thing is to make sure you apex the edge completely and not just in spots. When it comes to stropping try using a ridged strip like a loaded paint stir stick. Use it like a file. That will keep you from rounding the edge . I find its very easy to do with leather strops.
 
I think 58 HRC, rather? 61 is very hard for a "simple" steel, even knives that hard made in plain carbon steel wouldn't take much abuse.
 
Recently fixing up an old-shed-find of an axe head, this thing looked like it was used to till most of the yard.. for around 30 years. After a fine crosscut machinist's file and a 400 grit stone it made it hair popping sharp (after taking out 8 good chips and a lot of dents), keep your angle consistent, take your time, every pass needs to be intentional, especially once you get your edge down. These things shouldn't be rushed, there's a lot to be said for the patience of someone who sharpens things professionally.

I know keeping the bevel angle consistent on an axe is harder because the surface you're working is farther from where you're usually holding it, unlike on a knife where your hand will often be on the blade providing even pressure and helping give a "sense" of the angle as your edge passes over a stone. If available to you... a shop setting, having good lighting and holding the axe head in a vise,(wood or lined with a rag if metal) facing up might give you a better surface to work with since the files, stones, strop are more maneuverable than the axe itself considering its handle and weight. Having hardware in my left arm I often need to find ways of making things "simpler".

As stated, less pressure on your honing surfaces, one or two passes on a stone with your angle too high or pushing too hard on a flexible surface (i.e. strop leather) will round off the edge, on that note if you glue or adhere abrasives to a surface, you probably want to use wood, stone, glass or steel as you don't want it to warp/deform/sink and give the same bevel-destroying effect of rounding. Work slow to make progress fast. Work fast to make progress sloppy. Practice is key. Goodluck!
 
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