Recommendation? wood handle protective finish

H

HSC ///

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I have an idea for an artistic handle concept that will require a finish over the features on the wood handle to seal everything.

There are many choices - varnish, shellac, polyurethane
This will be for a kitchen knife
suggestions or recommendations?

thanks
 
I don't like finishes on kitchen knives. For the same reason, I don't usually like art handles on kitchen knives. Kitchen knives are user implements and art handle with finish coatings will hold up well with use. If making a shelf queen, other blades styles are better than a kitchen blade.

If using any finish, use one that penetrates a bit and has low build-up. Watco or similar would be OK. Steel wool most all of it off when dry and hand buff with some carnauba wax.
 
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Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
If using any finish, use one that penetrates a bit and has low build-up. Watco or similar would be OK. Steel wool most all of it off when dry and hand buff with some carnauba wax.
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I agree with this comment from Stacy.
I like Watco brand Danish Oil followed by paste wax. Different types of wood will react differently but it should work out if the handle is not abused.
 
Could someone expand on this by giving the top three woods best suited for kitchen knives?
 
DanF said:
Could someone expand on this by giving the top three woods best suited for kitchen knives?
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That depends, But I think I would say

Stabilized woods generally. The stabilization process makes woods highly water resistant so they can stand up to constant moisture, as well as highly durable and sanitary as bacteria need constant moisture to thrive

Rosewoods. Woods like Cocobolo, Kingwood and african blackwood are naturally stable, oily and tough. This means they do not get water damaged, they have a great appearance and their high oil content means they actively kill off bacteria and other contaminants on their surface.

Ringed Gidgee. Gidgee is a member of the acacia family that shares a lot of properties with Desert ironwood, with a similar stability density and high grade finish while also not darkening nearly as badly. It also has a great figure and oily texture which means it can stand up well.
 
HSC /// said:
I have an idea for an artistic handle concept that will require a finish over the features on the wood handle to seal everything.

There are many choices - varnish, shellac, polyurethane
This will be for a kitchen knife
suggestions or recommendations?

thanks
Click to expand...

I meant to send you an email. My advise is basically what Mark and Stacy said. Finishes like shellac, poly urethane and lacquer are meant for different things.

Shellac is meant for moisture vapor protection. That is why it is so often seen in guitars or other instruments. With thin, large pieces of wood you need a finish that can prevent the moisture changes that result in cracking or warping. Shellac is not a durable finish at all.

Poly is a tough water resistant finish. At first this seems great, but it is tough for things like maple and oak to prevent scuffing. It is far, far softer and weaker than any exotic or dense wood, while also having the downside of simply not curing. Unlike the other finishes you listed, poly is a reactive finish, that is to say a chemical reaction must take place with the air to allow it to harden, and an oily wood prevents this.

Lacquer is used for ease of finishing and to provide a very thin finish, such as on decorative objects where the product should look as natural as possible.

If you are worried about color change, you can contact me. I have been working on a wax with anti UV properties that I have found to significantly extend the lifetime of colors in woods.
 
Greenberg Woods said:
I meant to send you an email. My advise is basically what Mark and Stacy said. Finishes like shellac, poly urethane and lacquer are meant for different things.

Shellac is meant for moisture vapor protection. That is why it is so often seen in guitars or other instruments. With thin, large pieces of wood you need a finish that can prevent the moisture changes that result in cracking or warping. Shellac is not a durable finish at all.

Poly is a tough water resistant finish. At first this seems great, but it is tough for things like maple and oak to prevent scuffing. It is far, far softer and weaker than any exotic or dense wood, while also having the downside of simply not curing. Unlike the other finishes you listed, poly is a reactive finish, that is to say a chemical reaction must take place with the air to allow it to harden, and an oily wood prevents this.

Lacquer is used for ease of finishing and to provide a very thin finish, such as on decorative objects where the product should look as natural as possible.

If you are worried about color change, you can contact me. I have been working on a wax with anti UV properties that I have found to significantly extend the lifetime of colors in woods.
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it's fine, I'm sure you are busy
I'll try the Watco Danish oil
what I need is some white Holly, stabilized I guess
 
I buy holly from the local exotic wood supplier and have it stabilized with the high density solution. It works well on knife handles with ebony or African Blackwood.
 
I use Teak oil. Works lovely for doing "sanded in" finishes. You can build it up to a gloss, I however leave it satin.
One of the coolest things about it is it's uv resistant....so you would get as much of a two toned handle from it being in the sheath while you are wearing it out in the sun!
 
Greenberg Woods said:
That depends, But I think I would say

Stabilized woods generally. The stabilization process makes woods highly water resistant so they can stand up to constant moisture, as well as highly durable and sanitary as bacteria need constant moisture to thrive

Rosewoods. Woods like Cocobolo, Kingwood and african blackwood are naturally stable, oily and tough. This means they do not get water damaged, they have a great appearance and their high oil content means they actively kill off bacteria and other contaminants on their surface.

Ringed Gidgee. Gidgee is a member of the acacia family that shares a lot of properties with Desert ironwood, with a similar stability density and high grade finish while also not darkening nearly as badly. It also has a great figure and oily texture which means it can stand up well.
Click to expand...

What about Huon pine? Iv heard its ability to fight against rot is unrivaled compared to most other woods. I have been told that trunks and branches that have laid at the bottom of riverbeds for years can be dragged out and the wood is in virtually pristine condition. Seems like it would be a perfect choice for kitchen knife handles?
 
Jesse WW said:
What about Huon pine? Iv heard its ability to fight against rot is unrivaled compared to most other woods. I have been told that trunks and branches that have laid at the bottom of riverbeds for years can be dragged out and the wood is in virtually pristine condition. Seems like it would be a perfect choice for kitchen knife handles?
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In theory, yes. But it is very soft and would dent easily and often.

I am bringing in some 3000 year old Sugi pine which is also very oily and resinos and I will have it stabilized, treating it like redwood/
 
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