Woods for use in Knife handles *updated*

Stabilize it. Its still relatively porous "it is oak after all" and apt to get little digs. Send it to K&G and you wont regret it
 
I did. I put from PeterB

Looks like that part didn't make it in! Sorry about that Peter. Wasent trying to steal credit. I'm not much of a domestica guy myself
 
This is an excellent thread and could be useful to both buyers and makers. Any chance it could be stickied if it gets some traffic?
 
Just my 2 cents here. But it is based on personal experience.
Camelthorne takes stabilizing very well. It is a dense variety of the Acacia family but not as dense as Gidgee (also an Acacia).
All of the varieties of Ebony that I have tried take stabilizing very well. Just make sure that the moisture is under 10%.
Redwood and Walnut can have varied results. When any of mine did not turn out well it was because of the wood, not the stabilizing process.
As an example Redwood can have a big variation in oil content and density. The oilier stuff has a bigger chance of failure.
With Walnut I have had good luck with the exception of Claro Walnut when it has a certain scent. I don't know how to describe it other than it makes me sneeze and turns dark when stabilized.
But with the majority of Claro Walnut I get good results. I have never had any difficulties with English or Bastogne.
 
I really wasent trying to take credit for Peter's post. I put the comments in quotes and thought I had mentioned his name. I'm sorry I didn't include it at first. Wasent trying trying to steal amy credit. I'm not a walnut guy.
 
Burl Source said:
Just my 2 cents here. But it is based on personal experience.
Camelthorne takes stabilizing very well. It is a dense variety of the Acacia family but not as dense as Gidgee (also an Acacia).
All of the varieties of Ebony that I have tried take stabilizing very well. Just make sure that the moisture is under 10%.
Redwood and Walnut can have varied results. When any of mine did not turn out well it was because of the wood, not the stabilizing process.
As an example Redwood can have a big variation in oil content and density. The oilier stuff has a bigger chance of failure.
With Walnut I have had good luck with the exception of Claro Walnut when it has a certain scent. I don't know how to describe it other than it makes me sneeze and turns dark when stabilized.
But with the majority of Claro Walnut I get good results. I have never had any difficulties with English or Bastogne.
Click to expand...
I have a ton of old growth redwood burl coming in from Fort bragg, any way to predict how well redwood will stabilize? I'm normally a rosewood guy
 
Couple of things to add. Olive wood supposedly needs a LONG drying period. Otherwise it moves. Once it dries, you get a nice stable attractive wood that is very reasonably priced. Many French pocketknives and kitchen knives have olive wood handles.
Second, if you happen to be VERY lucky and find some Honduran rosewood burl like what Mark has a while back BUY ALL OF IT and put it in your secret stash. That is some of he most gorgeous wood you will ever lay eyes on.
 
I completely agree. In fact, I recently added a new piece to super secret stash. Cocobolo burl. So far i have a big block of figured ceylon ebony, Curly Brazilian rosewood and Koa burl.
 
PLAIN cocobolo is very attractive, The burl is outrageous and appear to be VERY rare. I like those crazy rosewood family burls better than ironwood.
 
Larry, yes in both cases. Info from long years of selling walnut gunstocks and making custom gunstocks and neat conversations with the best gunmakers and stockmakers in the world.
Pete
 
jdm61 said:
Couple of things to add. Olive wood supposedly needs a LONG drying period. Otherwise it moves. Once it dries, you get a nice stable attractive wood that is very reasonably priced. Many French pocketknives and kitchen knives have olive wood handles.
Second, if you happen to be VERY lucky and find some Honduran rosewood burl like what Mark has a while back BUY ALL OF IT and put it in your secret stash. That is some of he most gorgeous wood you will ever lay eyes on.
Click to expand...

I only saved one piece of that rosewood burl for myself.
It is with Russ Andrews being used on a fighter for me.
 
Mark, how long do you figure that your stuff had ben drying? The other couple of pieces that I got from the guys from Belize a few years back had been cut at least 10 years before I ever played eyes on it and I am sure that makes a difference. I seem to recall you telling me that your stash had been stateside for quite a few years before you cam across it.
Burl Source said:
I only saved one piece of that rosewood burl for myself.
It is with Russ Andrews being used on a fighter for me.
Click to expand...
 
I'm not the biggest fan is Osage for handles. It's an attractive enough wood but the color is pretty fleeting. Personally I much prefer a cocobolo or kingwood

Edit*it seems you have been posting that sales pitch for your friend on every wood related thread. I'm not sure how the mods feel about this but you may want to reconsider
 
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Knife shows are a great place to get wood. There are always a number of wood sellers with wide varieties of product and usually scales that are stabilized. You can also ask custom makers about the type of wood on their knives that catch your eye. Often non-wood dealers have extra pieces they don't need. Just keep your eyes open.
 
I have used bog oak as is without any problems.
You can leave the pores open as an oak charasteristic of fill them with oil/varnish/dust.
Beautiful stuff

And olive wood comes from the Mediterranean, so including Mediterranean Europe, not just the middle east
 
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